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praktical tesi
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Vagabond



Joined: 24 Aug 2012
Posts: 19
Location: Sydney

PostPosted: Fri Aug 24, 2012 10:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks. I will PM him.
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stockcar



Joined: 07 Apr 2011
Posts: 707
Location: in the shadow of the "angel"

PostPosted: Fri Aug 24, 2012 12:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

often on clip-ons there is a "loactor" bolt........

have you tried removing the underneath bolt totally to see if it has a 2nd position??
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waggy



Joined: 26 Sep 2011
Posts: 273
Location: Northern Ireland

PostPosted: Fri Aug 24, 2012 8:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sorry cant check bars for you as am in austria, but will have a good look next week when i return. Its roasting hot out here, lovely jubbly. Very Happy
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Vagabond



Joined: 24 Aug 2012
Posts: 19
Location: Sydney

PostPosted: Sat Aug 25, 2012 4:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you waggy. It is beaut weather here in Sydney also. Tesi 3D is an awesome bike to ride but the clip on position is designed more for track than fun rides to the country.

I will try a few more adjustments if I get the time.
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waggy



Joined: 26 Sep 2011
Posts: 273
Location: Northern Ireland

PostPosted: Sat Aug 25, 2012 8:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

yup they are such a lightweight and well balanced bike, and l just love the braking. The bars are more set for track, but suits me fine as have a knackered arm and straighter bars hurt more, dont let the speedo drop below 80 and its well comfy. Very Happy
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waggy



Joined: 26 Sep 2011
Posts: 273
Location: Northern Ireland

PostPosted: Thu Aug 30, 2012 5:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Back from hols, and have had a look at bar setup, your bolt B holds a alloy block to top yoke and your bolt A holds the handlebar assy to the alloy block. loosening either bolt should allow adjustment, however even after removing both bolts everything is still extremely tight (both bolts are loctited) After a long struggle I managed to remove the bar and you can see the end fitting that goes into the alloy block that is attached to the top yoke is tapered. I haven't removed the alloy block that is attached to top yolk as I suspect that that too is tapered and its held fast to all my attempts to shift it so far.
I suspect yours are just as tight all thanks to the tapering design.

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2bims



Joined: 03 Apr 2010
Posts: 5338

PostPosted: Thu Aug 30, 2012 6:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thats actually quite a sensible design, with the tapered end so the bolt pulls it tight, but can still change its postion with a bit of effort, cool

A worthy Addition to the Forum Waggy, be sure to stick around Laughing
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Vagabond



Joined: 24 Aug 2012
Posts: 19
Location: Sydney

PostPosted: Fri Aug 31, 2012 7:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

"After a long struggle I managed to remove the bar...."

Thanks waggy;

I think this is where I went wrong, I was too afraid to use firm force!
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Vagabond



Joined: 24 Aug 2012
Posts: 19
Location: Sydney

PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2012 1:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The wing mirrors on the Tesi 3D are next to useless. I am 5' 10", 78 kg and I can't see past my shoulders. Is there a mod to make the mirrors useful for day to day rides?

Thanks.
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waggy



Joined: 26 Sep 2011
Posts: 273
Location: Northern Ireland

PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2012 5:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well l am 5'6 and cant see out of my mirrors either, they are more a fashion statement than functional items. Can't think of anything that could replace them, maybe a bar end mirror perhaps.
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daotoys1



Joined: 29 Feb 2008
Posts: 200

PostPosted: Wed Dec 19, 2012 5:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good day,

The small aluminum piece that the clip on bar fits into has a tapered friction fit to the piece that mounts to the steering yoke.

If you loosen the bolt A, and then tap the bolt head lightly it should "break" the friction fit and allow adjustment of the clip on. Only loosen the bolt A a little. Just enough to be able to loosen the friction fit. If you loosen the bolt to much where to few threads are making contact you can damage or strip the threads in the piece that you are attempting to loosen.

I hope that I have explained this well enough for you to make sense of my poor communication skills.

Good luck.

Sincerely

DAO

P.S.......I know this because I have put carbon fiber clip ons on my Tesi 3D ........it took me a little while to figure out how BIMOTA had designed these pieces.
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Vagabond



Joined: 24 Aug 2012
Posts: 19
Location: Sydney

PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2013 12:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Both small aluminium pieces in mine have cracked!! However they have been replaced under warranty.

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daotoys1



Joined: 29 Feb 2008
Posts: 200

PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2013 4:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vagabond wrote:
Both small aluminium pieces in mine have cracked!! However they have been replaced under warranty.




I would suggest that anyone who has a Tesi should pay attention to this parts. My guess is that these parts cracked by possibly being over torqued.

Its of course also possible that the parts were just not made strong or thick enough, but over tightening the joint would certainly put the pieces under undue stress and add to the possibility of cracking.

Does anyone know if BIMOTA has a torque setting for these pieces???

DAO
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waggy



Joined: 26 Sep 2011
Posts: 273
Location: Northern Ireland

PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2013 6:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wow scary looking cracks there vagabond, as DAO suggested might be a case of overtightening, have no idea of torque values, I didn't tighten mine to much, the tapering design would hold fast I reckon, even if the bolt fell out Laughing
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Vagabond



Joined: 24 Aug 2012
Posts: 19
Location: Sydney

PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2013 2:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

DAO, you're right - there's no torque setting for the aluminium pieces unlike say, the rear axle which is rated to 100Nm. I have never seen torque ratings for an Allan screw head on a Bimota.

However, I think the blocks cracked because it was under tightened, i.e. too loose. When you hit a pot hole, or a bump, the force on the handlebars from your upper torso and arms causes the clip on handlebars to slip downwards making the bike unrideable unless you quickly exert an upward force to pull the bars back in position again (or risk losing control). It is this turning moment I think, that caused the blocks to crack.

IMHO I think there's a design flaw there. If there were friction slots on the aluminium piece and the yoke, there wouldn't be this problem. Just my personal thoughts. Also, the entire rear subframe unscrews itself and you have to constantly check the torsion on the screws.
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