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My money pit

 
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bimotabob



Joined: 06 Jul 2013
Posts: 110
Location: New Zealand

PostPosted: Tue Jul 16, 2013 10:12 am    Post subject: My money pit Reply with quote

Brought this in terrible condition off a right muppet 6 years ago.
I drained the coolant and just brown watery muck gushed out.
The front forks wouldnt move, i mean i rode it for 150km's and they hadnt moved a milimeter, turns out it had been damaged and poorly repaired.
been crashed both sides but have slowly fixed it up and spent trillions of dollars hence why its called the money pit.

This is recent with refurbished rims.



This is start of the year on a east cape tour.



Pretty compact these YB's. got my 1kg Shorai battery.



Thunderace engine now fitted, low km's and much better with EFI as well as more performance and now fits into the frame with as much strength as the Yamaha as before Bimota actually run less mounts than on the EXUP.



Old engine



New engine



New Instruments now fitted as both the speedo and rev counter were inaccurate and there was no oil pressure plus the coolant sensor was in the radiator outside the thermostat which is crazy really.



Rims painted and polished after 20 years of abuse with new titanium and stainless steel fasteners



Broken down in the middle of nowhere in a mountain range no cell etc.
I had the lid fall iff the computer box and down the hill it filled up with water completely submerging the ECU. I shook out the water and inspected the PCB. It went again but kept cutting out as there was moisture all over the Eprom which is unsprayed of course.
It runs fine now but i had to leave in a farmers shed after being towed for 50km behind a early ninties triumph with pillion with webbing wrapped round my forks.
Goes fine now.



I have spent many hours on this and have cured many of Yamaha's issues as well as Bimotas. I have a list of the should do's if anyone is interested.
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crankcase



Joined: 09 Nov 2011
Posts: 387
Location: Frankfurt Germany

PostPosted: Wed Jul 17, 2013 5:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi Bob
just keep going . .
love the body off and detail pictures.

more air filters, getting cheaper:

http://bimota-teile.de/Bimota/index.html

click Ersatzteile on the left ,

then click on YB8

part number 48

48 1 215 000 451 Lutffiltereinsatz auch YB11 + YB9 30,50 €

all the best
Ian
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Bimota DB2 tricolore, Bimota YB4e.i, Ducati 851 tricolore, Ducati Hailwood Replica, 1968 Gitan Grillo sport, Yamaha GTS1000, Honda Deauville, Honda GB500 Clubman
http://thecrankcase.com
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bimotabob



Joined: 06 Jul 2013
Posts: 110
Location: New Zealand

PostPosted: Wed Jul 17, 2013 9:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey thanks, thats quite a bit cheaper.
Pity i cant read all the spiel in German as it look interesting.
Thanks for the heads up Crankcase.
I recently got some parts from Germany and its the same crowd.
Very happy with the stuff i got, should have asked about it then as its a pain getting parts from Germany as direct bank transfer is a hassle and cost me $50NZD in bank fees.
The quality of the parts is very good Smile
Wanted lots more stuff but budget was restrictive because:

Titanium banjo's



Titanium and aluminium bolt kits (calipers and engine)



No one had ever changed the filter so found small and cheap was CanAm fuel filter - real cheap in fact! Bike shops use them in everything to save cash.


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crankcase



Joined: 09 Nov 2011
Posts: 387
Location: Frankfurt Germany

PostPosted: Wed Jul 17, 2013 2:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi Bob
the copper pipe looks very cool!
I expect you know to use 'special' fuel pipe for 'in tank use'.
If you have ethanol in your fuel- it will destroy normal fuel pipe and can make a mess in the tank.
If you need it- there are some online suppliers, or you can buy it directly from BMW, apparantly.
The BMW K bikes filter fits too, but it sounds like you got a real cheap alternative.

If you need to get parts in Germany- I can maybe help:
You can pay me by Paypal (costs approx 5%), and I can pay the supplier by bank transfer (no cost).
Might work out a bit cheaper.
postage to New Zealand costs 14 euros uninsured up to 2kg,
or 40 euros up to 5kg, which means it can be advantageous to split into 2kg parcels if possible.
I've sent lots of stuff to NZ before and never had a problem, just takes 2 or 3 weeks.

all the best
Ian
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Bimota DB2 tricolore, Bimota YB4e.i, Ducati 851 tricolore, Ducati Hailwood Replica, 1968 Gitan Grillo sport, Yamaha GTS1000, Honda Deauville, Honda GB500 Clubman
http://thecrankcase.com
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bimotabob



Joined: 06 Jul 2013
Posts: 110
Location: New Zealand

PostPosted: Wed Jul 17, 2013 6:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could b a plan Ian when i need some more parts.

Regarding ethanol, i stay well away from it.
Some people i know run it but i told them to read up first.
Its so bad Yamaha voids warranties if its been proven to have been used on bikes with ceramic type bores eg R1 Fazer.
I think its ok with brand new vehicles with certain metals in the fuel system.
Brass is a no no, maybe copper then? Classic car clubs have horror stories that would freak any car nut out.
Basically no carbs and hope your fuel pump is ok.
Didnt know about fuel lines, my original were 20 years old and stuffed and the filter was near blocked.
The fuel relay was burning up which is a known complaint on poorly maintained Weber marelli bikes with high pump current draw (over 10amps)
The pipework was done by my mate who is a fridgey and an electrician.
We also spent a whole day up rating the wiring loom - the Yamaha part with heavy silicone wires to cure major voltage drop.
I'm an auto electrician myself and i found the Yamaha loom to be substandard and when injection is used its even worse.
I think my memory my lights were around 11volts and was 14.4volts at the alternator. One of the best fixes i done actually.
If anyone wants info im happy to point out the areas of insufficient cable grading.

Jason
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triumphnz



Joined: 20 Jul 2013
Posts: 2
Location: Rotorua ,New zealand

PostPosted: Sat Jul 20, 2013 7:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi
I have a furano I am also in nz am after any info on them workshop manual etc
Darren.
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who



Joined: 10 Nov 2010
Posts: 402
Location: Melbourne Australia

PostPosted: Sun Jul 21, 2013 1:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Bob, Nice work on the Furano! What brand of Tacho are you running there? Is it a Stack instrument? I'm guessing you made up the new panel? Out of interest how is the oil pressure? Consistent psi during all running ranges? Where did you place the sender?

Sorry about all the questions! Rolling Eyes
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bimotabob



Joined: 06 Jul 2013
Posts: 110
Location: New Zealand

PostPosted: Sun Jul 21, 2013 7:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote



Yamaha drill across the engine and plug both ends with a screw in bung with allen key hex. its basically a main oil gallery and feeds via side drillings and connects to the filter in front of it.
Just had a new bung made up with a 3/8npt inside.

Pressure is interesting. Yamaha should have fitted one standard but i like the level switch and still use that too!
Runs 60psi at idle cold and 10psi hot approx.
Max oil pressure is governed to approx 70psi, you can tell a lot about the oil temp and watch the pressure relief working.
Even hot after say 4000rpm it reads full pressure.
Id have liked to have measured the oil temp both before and after i changed from the external cooler to the 1991-1995 heat exchanger set up.
I didnt bother fitting the thunderace one off the motor i brought as it has bigger lines and the radiator needed the pipe mod. its also a bigger unit though.



If you look at the ECU coolant temp sensor on the right i now have fitted the temp gauge one on the left.
Now the temp is inside the thermostat at hottest point, why Yamaha fitted it on the radiator beats me but probably cost. works much different installed here.

Yes stack gauges, although i buy direct off S.P.A in the USA so different name. Very accurate.

yes i done in the past autocad and im an auto sparky so i drew up a .dwg and got it laser cut and wired it up fitting the stock loom. wanted to fit the standard mounts as they are rubber mounted and its a must for high rpm readings. Completely reverseable to standard.
Fitted speedo magnet to rear disc.

Good instruments are very handy but cost me a lot
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