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DB1 Throttle Removal

 
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markw2012



Joined: 10 Aug 2013
Posts: 12
Location: USA

PostPosted: Sat Aug 10, 2013 12:35 am    Post subject: DB1 Throttle Removal Reply with quote

Can anyone help with throttle removal on a DB1. I have separated the halves and cannot see if the pin that locks the back half to the handlebar to stop the throttle spinning is threaded or just a pin.
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2bims



Joined: 03 Apr 2010
Posts: 7289

PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 12:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Howdo Mark...and Welcome....apologies for late response...been busy...and theres not many Db1 owners anyhow, let alone ones that use their bikes...I've recently had mine off the bike, adjusting the clip ons and fitting Goldseries Brembo Master clutch and brake assemblies...so had to play around a bit for clearance of throttle on the screen fairing aperture, lock to lock....I havent noticed any pin or such on the throttle body...and not sure if yours is standard, or whether mine is stnadard either...a picture would help. My throttle assembly though can turn around with no problem up and down the bar and around,,,being secured in place by simply tightening the fixing bolts in the unit itself...If yours isnt doing this then suggest PC inusulation tape wrap on the bar to allow the screws to tighten...often the best fix?
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markw2012



Joined: 10 Aug 2013
Posts: 12
Location: USA

PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2013 3:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

2 bims
Thanks for the reply. I am not sure if I fit into the category of user yet. I have taken it out a few times but now am looking at doing a mild restoration. It is the RS or SR depending on what you are reading but I believe bikes should be used. I finally removed back half using the technical tool, soft faced hammer. It does have a gnarled pin which fits into a hole in the handlebar. I also have a Ducati F1 so compared the housings and the F1 does not have this but if you look at the housing you can see in the molding where the pin would be located between the holes where the nuts fit.

You will have to let me know how the new master cylinders perform. When I purchased the bike it had coffin master cylinders which I am also going to replace. I have purchased 2 original reservoirs and am looking to use gold series brake and clutch in conjunction with these to mimic the original set up. The other area I am trying to find a solution to the engine heat scorching the inside of the lower faring, any tips on this.
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2bims



Joined: 03 Apr 2010
Posts: 7289

PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2013 7:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

How do Mark...what forks do you have for the front suspension on your bike? Mine has the original Marzocchi M1R's that has the one bodied adjuster on the right fork leg at the spindle. I ask coz to be able to fit the original fluid reservoirs onto these Bimota had their own system set up for these forks whereby the original reservoirs actually screw onto the top of the forks...theres a rubber O ring that sits in a grrove in the tops of the upper tubes and the cap actually makes the sealing top to the forks...take mine off and out pops the Fork springs...Oops...hadnt expected that with mine when I dropped the forks to renew the dust and fork seals......The gold series work very well on the bike... a lot lighter action and with adjustable reach levers so its not such a stretch to the levers....and I replaced the "shiney" alloy levers with black painted ones to mimic the originals also.

Heat build up...yeh its a known issue for the bikes due evidently to the all enclosed fairing...you can either put quilted heat tape on the inside of the fairing...I presume your issue is on the belly pan? But what you should find is that its the exhausts that are carrying the heat and this is causing the problem....2 solutions here....For the moment I have heat wrapped the full length of each header with titanium heat wrap, fixed with metal SS cable ties...this goes full length from each header to just where they exit from under the belly pan.

My permanent fix for this winter though is to remove the exhaust system and get them both ceramic coated inside and out, for which they do a nice matt finish black...and this makes them able to be touched even after a run...as it pushes all the heat out of the back...Hope this helps...pictures will be nice...and I'll also upload what Ive done with mine too
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2bims



Joined: 03 Apr 2010
Posts: 7289

PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2013 7:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Heres a link to spare parts manual downloads....lots of nice pictures to help restore/put back together...just need to find the parts then... Laughing

http://www.loudbikestore.com/page.html?id=69
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markw2012



Joined: 10 Aug 2013
Posts: 12
Location: USA

PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 12:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

2 bims

Sorrybit of a delay in response. The bike has the original forks, it appears the standard fork nuts have been put back in but I have yet to disassemble the forks to confirm. Thanks for the o-ring tip, I was wondering what that was for. When I received the reservoir it was supplied as one of the parts. I have a question on sealing the reservoir, I have the screw top and rubber from brembo reservoir but cannot see how the brembo screw top and the machined Bimota top work. Any help appreciated. Also are you still running the original astralite wheels, I see these are now being manufactured again and was thinking of buying a 17" set so I could run better rubber.

Mark
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2bims



Joined: 03 Apr 2010
Posts: 7289

PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 8:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Mark...pictures would help but I cant see why you are talking "brembo" ? The Standard reservoir pots that make the tops to the forks are Bimota Own alloy ones with a plastic round window for sighting fluid levels, and an outlet for the fluid hose connection to the clutch and brake master cylinders....the tops that fit them are again alloy Bimota own caps that simply screw onto the pots, not plastic brembo ones, and there is the usual rubber diaphragm piece also that sits in the top of the pot before screwing the cap on....I do have one spare original cap for these, that I bought from Armin of DRT Schneider in Germany, so if you are after original I suggest you contact him if you know him, as you would need the rubber diaphragms as well...I am still running the original "astralite" style wheels,,,so evidently I have zero rubber choice...although the wheels again are Bimota own, stamped on each spoke, not astralites...they are split rims, bonded and sealed with glue and rivetted, albeit they look like astralites....most folk change for marvic five spokes or Marchesini 3/5 spokes to enable a fulll choice of rubber
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Quadrasuarass



Joined: 23 Aug 2013
Posts: 82
Location: New Zealand

PostPosted: Sun Aug 25, 2013 12:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

For replacment DB1 tyres go to and look under road tyres GT070 & GT071

http://www.goldentyre.it/index_eng.htm
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markw2012



Joined: 10 Aug 2013
Posts: 12
Location: USA

PostPosted: Mon Sep 02, 2013 8:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

2 Bims - been on holiday so sorry for the slow reply. I keep talking about brembo as I received some brembo parts with the brake and clutch cylinders, the seal, 1 piece of the 2 part 16 parts listed in the parts list on 20 and a separate brembo cap as well as the machined cap. These parts were ordered directly from Bimota in the US so I assume they sent me everything I needed to mount the cylinders. Can you tell me what is the other part number 16 is, it looks like a spacer of some sort. I do not have access to anywhere I can load pictures to at the moment so cannot show a picture of all the parts I received.

On the wheels I refer to them as Astralite wheels as they are manufactured the same way and look almost identical. Also when talking with other people about them I have found it easier to refer to them as Astralites as these are more widely known over here in the US. As Quadrasuarass posted Golden Tyre have the original sizes available. I am using these tyres on both my 851 and F1 which both have Mavic/Akront wheels and so far are good but I do not rank the, against the sticky tyres available from the bigger known manufacturers.
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2bims



Joined: 03 Apr 2010
Posts: 7289

PostPosted: Mon Sep 02, 2013 8:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right I see what you are referring to now...on Tav.20 of the spare parts manual they reference 2 circular items as "part No 16" and just call them "Diaphragm and membrane" not really the right title...the lower piece is the rubber concertinered Bellow thing...same as NOrmal Brembo caps,,, that allows the vaccum to be contained...and sucks downward when pads wear and draw more fluid in...the other part is a plastic ring that sits atop this that is then sandwiched in place by the metal turned top to create and adequate air tight seal....really you need both parts..I presume when you Say "USA Bimota Dealer" you mean Bob of Bimota Spirit? As I believe there are no USA Bimota dealers anymore as Bimota have chosen not to supply the US market anymore...immaterial really, like in the UK...as Bimota themselves dont have back stock for such early models...but if you've found patrs from Bob you've done well in the first place...Yeh Astralites...as good a word as any as dont think Bimota gave them a name...
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brian



Joined: 22 Aug 2011
Posts: 3769
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Mon Sep 02, 2013 11:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

2bims wrote:
As I believe there are no USA Bimota dealers anymore as Bimota have chosen not to supply the US market anymore


Strange that there's no official Bim dealer in the U.S. I heard somewhere that the Australian Bimota dealership has (had?) the highest turn over for Bimota world wide. Not sure if it is fact or not. This bloke now has 2 dealerships in Australia and looking for someone to open a 3rd for him.
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'99 DB4 #104, '96 SB6 #1165, '94 DB2 J #652, '99 DB4 #088, '08 VTX1800, '93 ZXR750R M1, '95 ZXR750, '95 ZXR750 Race Bike, '94 CBR400rr NC29 Race Bike, '94 CB250, '49 BSA C10 250, '61 BSA A10 650, '89 ZXR750, '91 Ducati 851
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2bims



Joined: 03 Apr 2010
Posts: 7289

PostPosted: Mon Sep 02, 2013 11:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh its just Go Go Go Bimota for you reach Diggers down under Eh? Found another Gold mine have you guys? Or is it that you only let people in with money that want to work? Hhmmm...may have something there Brian....Ooppsss...Went all political for a while...Dont forget in the US they now have to fund medical for everyone so things may be a little tight.....and potential nutha war in some Foreign country to fund...Phew...hopefully UK got out of that one....Recent report said that China and Brazil were best emerging Markets for Bimota and they were concentrating there....
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bimota_rider



Joined: 06 Jul 2013
Posts: 213
Location: Utah, USA

PostPosted: Tue Sep 03, 2013 4:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The closest you will get for USA Bimota dealers is:

http://www.bimotaspirit.com/home.html
contact name Bob (email works best, ....and best is stretching it)

and


http://www.supermoto.com/

I can't locate my contact info (I'm sure it is in a very safe place....) with this guy, but he is top shelf, if you can decipher the New York City speech pattern, LOL.
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'98 Bimota SB6R #000016 "Sweet 16"
Built 5/97

2014 Suzuki Hayabusa

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