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SpikeC
Joined: 20 Aug 2013 Posts: 450 Location: Portland, Oregon
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Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 10:51 pm Post subject: A little good news, and a question |
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When I lowsided my bike the bottom of the right fork leg recieved a bit of rash. The insurance adjuster, after contacting BimotaSpirit, found that the bottom of the fork leg was not available separately, and allowed a bunch of money for the whole fork leg! Bob at BS just found the fork bottom available direct from Ohlins!
Now I need to find out what is involved in swapping the fork bottoms....
Anyone know? _________________ Spike C.
Portland, Oregon, USA
2008 Bimota DB5R
1965 Triumph T100SC |
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2bims
Joined: 03 Apr 2010 Posts: 7289
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Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2015 12:23 pm Post subject: |
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Not many youtube clips out there.......the tin gold coated fork tubes are threaded on the lower part into the foot.....and once you remove the spindle you'll find theres an allen key headed bolt holding the foot to the tube....this will be loctite glued in place....and theres a nut on the back of it....fork has to be compressed to hold that captive nut and stop the bolt from turning when you apply force to it....evidently much care would have to be taken to stop any damage to the tin coating/tube...
Fortunately there is a large hole on the bottom of the clamp of the spindle that may allow you to use an allen key chuck socket...access being the problem
Seems to be a few ohlins manual out there but they dont seem to cover removal of this part....I'd go direct to ohlins and ask them...as theres many help lines out there...and even a Ohlins forum
A lot of folk also talk about a loctite glued grub screw also that needs to be heated to be removed.....so check if theres one on the ohlins lowers.....seems that the only time that people remove these is when needing to get the tubes re-chromed/tin/DLC coated....and that some of these companies will remove the part for you...so maybe check there also
http://www.z1ownersclub.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?p=189927&sid=4ae0b1770cd43f255b659c33e94d4515
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=doRfHnQAcDI
http://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=191958 |
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2bims
Joined: 03 Apr 2010 Posts: 7289
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Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2015 3:00 pm Post subject: |
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Loads of Ohlins downloads here for manuals....some that show a special ohlins tool to hols the tube...apply heat to the disc caliper/spindle assembly and turn of tube
The FG570 fork manual download shows the lower assembly being removed....with heat and "special tool" 786-05.....but doesnt show a bolt underneath securing anything...
The FG43 USD manual (43mm Diameter road and track forks...as on DB5R)....shows the same tool being used to unscrew the tube from the lower....although without pictures, and clearly the cylinder tube is threaded....again....no bolt shown underneath that needs removing
Re-assembly requires Loctite 542 on the bottom thread...and 80Nm torque
Link to all manuals downloads
https://www.ohlins.eu/en/motorcycle/technics/road-track/ |
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Bud977
Joined: 03 Mar 2013 Posts: 525 Location: Sydney
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Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2015 10:45 pm Post subject: |
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Great info 2bims.
My concern would be, after removing the retaining grub screws etc, you would need to hold the tube without damaging it.
If you need to buy or make a tube holding tool, it may be better buying the whole tube and foot assembly from Ohlins. |
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SpikeC
Joined: 20 Aug 2013 Posts: 450 Location: Portland, Oregon
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Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2015 11:04 pm Post subject: |
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Thank 32bims! After I posted my question I found the relevant manual on the interwebby! I also found a post on an Aprilia forum where a fellow ended up using a dremel, a hacksaw and a cold chisel to get the bottom off!
I am waiting on a quote for the work from the local Ducati dealer who is a Ohlins service place. _________________ Spike C.
Portland, Oregon, USA
2008 Bimota DB5R
1965 Triumph T100SC |
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2bims
Joined: 03 Apr 2010 Posts: 7289
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Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2015 11:47 pm Post subject: |
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That does sound a more sensible option....let them take the risk of damage to the tube....
Having said that...I suppose it all depends on how much Ohlins want for the Bimota "b" logo'd billet ally drop-out....I cant imagine much change out of $600....considering that the brake caliper mount is part and parcel of the dropout...they must have to start out with a pretty large chunk of metal to make those....usually the caliper mount is a separate piece bolted on....but isnt with these dropouts....same as were used on the Bimota Santa Monica....
Have you had any further info on parts from Bimota? |
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SpikeC
Joined: 20 Aug 2013 Posts: 450 Location: Portland, Oregon
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Posted: Wed Feb 04, 2015 9:32 pm Post subject: |
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The insurance company allowed $3,126 or so for replacing the whole fork leg, so I have some room to work with here! The shop will charge me $360 for the labor to redo the seals on both legs and replace the bottom, so over all I think I'm doing OK. _________________ Spike C.
Portland, Oregon, USA
2008 Bimota DB5R
1965 Triumph T100SC |
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2bims
Joined: 03 Apr 2010 Posts: 7289
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Posted: Wed Feb 04, 2015 10:40 pm Post subject: |
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I HOPE YOU HAVE ROOM TO WORK WITH WITH THAT FIGURE.........just hope that perhaps Ohlins can source the part reasonably priced and more quickly than Bimota would.....any joy on Bimota bits yet? |
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SpikeC
Joined: 20 Aug 2013 Posts: 450 Location: Portland, Oregon
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Posted: Sat Feb 14, 2015 10:13 pm Post subject: |
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The parts should ship next week! Bob is having the body parts polished before shipping them and he has the fork part in his hands now. The only issue now is that the shop wants to know what the model number of the fork is so that they can be sure to have to parts in hand when I bring the fork legs in. The shop thinks the number should be on the inside of the fork foot, but I am not seeing it there. 😫 _________________ Spike C.
Portland, Oregon, USA
2008 Bimota DB5R
1965 Triumph T100SC |
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2bims
Joined: 03 Apr 2010 Posts: 7289
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Posted: Sun Feb 15, 2015 2:09 am Post subject: |
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Unfortunately theres no Ohlins names or numbers anywhere.....if you let them know that they are 43mm dia tin coated tubes....without remote reservoirs....that should be all they need to know for getting the right clamps for the tube
There is a product finder on the Ohlins Euro webpage....lists all manufacturers they supply forks to so you can get the product number...but as per ruddy typical....Bimota aint listed.....
Looking at other manufacturers that use Ohlins....I would say FG43 seems to fit the bill
http://www.oehlins.ch/data/120833633007282-04AR&TFG43.pdf |
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SpikeC
Joined: 20 Aug 2013 Posts: 450 Location: Portland, Oregon
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Posted: Tue Apr 14, 2015 9:17 pm Post subject: Now the axle.... |
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The forks are now refurbed and working great!
However, now about the axle....the right end of it is ground down a bit, it does not effect function, but isn't pretty. My man Bob tells me that Bimota has now ceased to make the DB5R so is having a bit of an issue sourcing the axle.
Does anyone have a spare they could part with? Or know of an alternate source for one?
Thanks, _________________ Spike C.
Portland, Oregon, USA
2008 Bimota DB5R
1965 Triumph T100SC |
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2bims
Joined: 03 Apr 2010 Posts: 7289
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Posted: Tue Apr 14, 2015 9:28 pm Post subject: |
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Jeeso Spike...you dont want much do you???..It is correct that the DB5R in that guise is no longer made...same with the Db6....You could try Bimota Classic Parts...that although they probably dont stock parts for DB5R...they may well have spindles/axles for SB8 SantaMonica...or even DB7....The santas were fitted with the same gold Oz racing wheels...same Ohlins 43 forks...and the same "styled" bimota bespoke CNC'd milled fork ends...you would have to check on diameters, lengths etc though...as I'm only going off "visual"...I mentin DB7...which came with Marzocchi forks but again had the same cnc bespoke Bimota fork ends...so perhaps thats a source also |
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