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First set of changes

 
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SethG



Joined: 09 Aug 2014
Posts: 95

PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 5:54 pm    Post subject: First set of changes Reply with quote

So, by the grace of God, I happen to have a good friend who is an amazing two stroke tuner and THE best race mechanic I know. Used to work on Factory Honda, Yamaha etc... he'll remain nameless for the sake of privacy.

But, I decided to give him the Bimota to start tuning. Mainly in seeing the amazing work of some of the guys on the forum, I thought it needed a pro and someone with no sacred cows; if a part doesn't make sense, replace it with one that does.

He's halfway done, but here's some of the progress so far:

Has a proper chain on it now, but the gearing is still totally illogical with that 15T front sprocket. Neither of us know where that sprocket came from, the problem is first gear is already pretty tall when I'm -1/+4, it's just going to get worse with correct gearing. It's obvious to both of us that this thing needs different gear ratios for mountain riding. I'm hoping one of you guys know what I'm talking about.





He said the carbs were out of sync and one of the needles was clotted up with some red gunk from the fuel tank it looked like, so he installed two fuel filters at the petrol tap:



Also reversed the shift for me, I've never had a bike with a standard pattern for any length of time and it was throwing me for a loop trying to figure this one out



Also cleaned up the bizarre plugs on the rear master cylinder



I'll post more info as it becomes available. I still need to figure out who makes a similar front sprocket, the last post on the subject on this forum was Ducati 916, so I'll try that. I'm also going to dyno it next week and see if I can't line up the torque curve with the gearing chart to figure out how to get it more usable on the street.
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Chris F



Joined: 19 Oct 2012
Posts: 78
Location: Cornwall

PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 6:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nice pics. what sort of wheels are they?
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SethG



Joined: 09 Aug 2014
Posts: 95

PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 6:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chris F wrote:
nice pics. what sort of wheels are they?


BST CF wheels
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Chris F



Joined: 19 Oct 2012
Posts: 78
Location: Cornwall

PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 7:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SethG wrote:
Chris F wrote:
nice pics. what sort of wheels are they?


BST CF wheels


thanks. did a quick google. that's one expensive mod. from your thread I'm taking you're looking to ride this on the road, right? any specific reason to drop the stock wheels for CF wheels?
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SethG



Joined: 09 Aug 2014
Posts: 95

PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 7:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chris F wrote:
SethG wrote:
Chris F wrote:
nice pics. what sort of wheels are they?


BST CF wheels


thanks. did a quick google. that's one expensive mod. from your thread I'm taking you're looking to ride this on the road, right? any specific reason to drop the stock wheels for CF wheels?


It came this way, I guess some of the later bikes did for some reason.

But on a bike like this, where you're frequently outside of the power band, you're going to want to decrease rotational inertia as much as possible.
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trev45



Joined: 15 Jun 2011
Posts: 449
Location: Sydney Australia

PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 11:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The paper filter will slow fuel flow
use mesh type if you need to

I just clean them once a year better
and check float levels at the same time

Trev
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Chris F



Joined: 19 Oct 2012
Posts: 78
Location: Cornwall

PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 10:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SethG wrote:
Chris F wrote:
SethG wrote:
Chris F wrote:
nice pics. what sort of wheels are they?


BST CF wheels


thanks. did a quick google. that's one expensive mod. from your thread I'm taking you're looking to ride this on the road, right? any specific reason to drop the stock wheels for CF wheels?


It came this way, I guess some of the later bikes did for some reason.

But on a bike like this, where you're frequently outside of the power band, you're going to want to decrease rotational inertia as much as possible.



So it came from Meda with CF wheels? Wow....
I knew he was running out of them even in 2006 when I got mine and had switched to the black Antera wheels by then plus he said they were heavy and had suggested getting some wheels of another Bimota, can't recall which one, but they were same size but magnesium I think.
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vort28



Joined: 22 Mar 2010
Posts: 2194
Location: Northwest , UK

PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 1:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chris F wrote:


So it came from Meda with CF wheels? Wow....
I knew he was running out of them even in 2006 when I got mine and had switched to the black Antera wheels by then plus he said they were heavy and had suggested getting some wheels of another Bimota, can't recall which one, but they were same size but magnesium I think.


Don't think any left Meda with anything other than Antera wheels on. Know of a few that where all purchased 2012/13/14 and all with Achor wheels on although Piero's supply has now run out or so he said in Feb.
Nige fitted BST's to his and had to make spacers up because BST do not list any Bimota fitment so guess someone else possibly fitted them.
Have carbin wheels on my DB4 and forged alloy on my Vdue. Not a huge amount of wieght difference and alloy not got the same issue when having tyres fitted.
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trev45



Joined: 15 Jun 2011
Posts: 449
Location: Sydney Australia

PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 2:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If running the big rear axle

SB8R wheels are the same , front and rear

Trev
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SethG



Joined: 09 Aug 2014
Posts: 95

PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 3:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think it was the US importer that added them, he used to work very tightly with Piero. Quite a few of the US bikes after 2010 came from the importer with BST wheels, but he said mine was the first one they used.

Either way:

1) BST has a standard v due fitment now anyone can order
2) this thing needs a normal sensor ring for the wheel speed, because these rotor bolts make me want to vomit.
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SethG



Joined: 09 Aug 2014
Posts: 95

PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 7:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

He cleaned the carbs as well, found some red paint jamming one needle, and then the carbs were of course out of sync.

The jetting was as follows:

Right: Left
215 : 210
DQ258 both
60 both
120/B40 both
A/S 1.75 : A/S 2.0


It runs much, much better now, but wants to stall on idle when cold or hot. I think it's still a little rich, I'll have him get to it next week.

He pulled half the rotor bolts on the left side and replaced them with buttons. He said the iron bolts were gapped a bit so he didn't think half of them were registered. Well, I rode it and he was right, apparently the sensor is keyed off only 5 bolts per revolution. I'd like to switch this out for a traditional sensor ring and then toss all the bolts for normal buttons. But I'm guessing that Piero encoded that into the dash and he'd need to adjust it if I wanted more than 5 pulses.



He also pulled the unnecessary buttons from the triple and taped them over temporarily with some shade of silver that made it disappear.



I took if for another 200 mile ride in the mountains on Saturday. It ran pretty good until it got hot, then it ran a little rough. I notice when I park it for 20 minutes at a time (hot) the oil pump seems to hand enough oil into the carb and cylinder to make it blow smoke for a minute and then it'll usually run rough for a little while afterwards.

I have one of those beautiful temperature sensors that fluctuates around random positions once the bike gets pretty hot. Not just warmed up, but after I've worked it a bit. I have no idea what causes it, but it's a little annoying not really knowing what temperature the bike might be running at.
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Chris F



Joined: 19 Oct 2012
Posts: 78
Location: Cornwall

PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2014 10:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sounds like if you are getting 2T oil seeping into your carbs/cylinders that the little nipple valves on the carbs are not sealing properly. think from memory these are off an Aprilia RS250 or similar. I replaced both of mine as soon as I got mine and don't get this problem. Plus I turn the 2T oil tap off if not using it for a while.
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SethG



Joined: 09 Aug 2014
Posts: 95

PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2014 1:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chris F wrote:
sounds like if you are getting 2T oil seeping into your carbs/cylinders that the little nipple valves on the carbs are not sealing properly. think from memory these are off an Aprilia RS250 or similar. I replaced both of mine as soon as I got mine and don't get this problem. Plus I turn the 2T oil tap off if not using it for a while.


So, I accidentally broke one of them when a tool slipped. Of course I forgot you mentioned this and proceeded to order replacement oil feeds from Dell'Orto...

Then they arrived and I realized they were the wrong ones...

For the record, they appear to be the oil check valves off of a Suzuki RGV-250, which also may be the correct part for an Aprilia or something-or-other.



For the record, I just ordered two from: http://www.pjme.co.uk/acatalog/Suzuki_RGV_250_Top_End_.html

They seem to be sometimes referred to as Oil Feed Pipes, or Oil Check Valves. Here's the difference between these and the Dell'Orto pipes, they have a valve that creates resistance that should stop the oil from leaking into the cylinders.

After I knew what part I was looking for, I did some research and these things appear to sort-of expire over time. So the trick is to order as many as you can, and then if you ever get oil dripping into the carb, replace these. Then you can leave the oil petcock alone.
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Chris F



Joined: 19 Oct 2012
Posts: 78
Location: Cornwall

PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2014 11:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SethG wrote:
Chris F wrote:
sounds like if you are getting 2T oil seeping into your carbs/cylinders that the little nipple valves on the carbs are not sealing properly. think from memory these are off an Aprilia RS250 or similar. I replaced both of mine as soon as I got mine and don't get this problem. Plus I turn the 2T oil tap off if not using it for a while.


So, I accidentally broke one of them when a tool slipped. Of course I forgot you mentioned this and proceeded to order replacement oil feeds from Dell'Orto...

Then they arrived and I realized they were the wrong ones...

For the record, they appear to be the oil check valves off of a Suzuki RGV-250, which also may be the correct part for an Aprilia or something-or-other.



For the record, I just ordered two from: http://www.pjme.co.uk/acatalog/Suzuki_RGV_250_Top_End_.html

They seem to be sometimes referred to as Oil Feed Pipes, or Oil Check Valves. Here's the difference between these and the Dell'Orto pipes, they have a valve that creates resistance that should stop the oil from leaking into the cylinders.

After I knew what part I was looking for, I did some research and these things appear to sort-of expire over time. So the trick is to order as many as you can, and then if you ever get oil dripping into the carb, replace these. Then you can leave the oil petcock alone.


A tiny bit cheaper but not by much:

http://www.thetuningworks.co.uk/store/product_info.php?products_id=622

Chris
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JRH



Joined: 21 Jan 2013
Posts: 223
Location: West Mids/North East

PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2015 10:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SethG wrote:
Chris F wrote:
sounds like if you are getting 2T oil seeping into your carbs/cylinders that the little nipple valves on the carbs are not sealing properly. think from memory these are off an Aprilia RS250 or similar. I replaced both of mine as soon as I got mine and don't get this problem. Plus I turn the 2T oil tap off if not using it for a while.


So, I accidentally broke one of them when a tool slipped. Of course I forgot you mentioned this and proceeded to order replacement oil feeds from Dell'Orto...

Then they arrived and I realized they were the wrong ones...

For the record, they appear to be the oil check valves off of a Suzuki RGV-250, which also may be the correct part for an Aprilia or something-or-other.



For the record, I just ordered two from: http://www.pjme.co.uk/acatalog/Suzuki_RGV_250_Top_End_.html

They seem to be sometimes referred to as Oil Feed Pipes, or Oil Check Valves. Here's the difference between these and the Dell'Orto pipes, they have a valve that creates resistance that should stop the oil from leaking into the cylinders.

After I knew what part I was looking for, I did some research and these things appear to sort-of expire over time. So the trick is to order as many as you can, and then if you ever get oil dripping into the carb, replace these. Then you can leave the oil petcock alone.


PJME are on my doorstep, they seem to be the people to speak to on 2 strokes...... I'm thinking of getting my spare engine into them, for some work 😜
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