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New yb8e owner
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who



Joined: 10 Nov 2010
Posts: 402
Location: Melbourne Australia

PostPosted: Sun Sep 20, 2015 1:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also Jim, How many Km or miles on this? Inlet valves have a bad habit of closing, the valves recede and as such valve clearances need adjustment.

If it over 20,000 KM, this could also be a cause for the poor starting, and running.

First indication is hard to start. I'm pretty sure you will have to drop the engine to do this. It's no big deal, just normal Yamaha 5 valve stuff. Cheers.

Priorities are:
Plugs
Trim leads as suggested.
carbs cleaned (ultrasonic is best)
Factory pro kit if you want to keep the standard carbs.
Carb balance. (doesn't matter how good you think everything is, they won't run right without it). The difference is a crap running bike to one that purrs and pulls.

I've been through this many times. There are no short cuts. Speak to Peter Day in the UK if you doubt me.
Smile Regards,
Ralph
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Jimip86



Joined: 15 Jul 2015
Posts: 49
Location: Derbyshire

PostPosted: Sun Sep 20, 2015 4:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the info , turns out getting the bike running right is now no longer my main concern.
Upon inspection I have discovered that the front wheel is out of alignment with the yokes. Top yoke set straight shows front wheel pointing 10 degrees.
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Jimip86



Joined: 15 Jul 2015
Posts: 49
Location: Derbyshire

PostPosted: Sun Sep 20, 2015 5:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's done about 17000km , well that's what the clocks say.
Looks like I'm gonna have to go through everything looks to me like it's and a low speed crash.
Tell tale signs


Look at the aluminium posts that hold the ignition barrel.
Maybe it has been dropped with the steering lock on?

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Jonny B Bad



Joined: 05 Dec 2009
Posts: 555
Location: NE London

PostPosted: Sun Sep 20, 2015 5:46 pm    Post subject: YB8e Reply with quote

Hello Jim, you may well be right about it being dropped with the steering lock on, given the very short side stand and it being self-retracting. Hopefully, loosening everything off will see it drop back into alignment.

I'm currently going through a YB8 and having ultrasonically cleaned the carbs and re-built them with Factory-Pro emulsion tubes and needles, it still doesn't run very well low down. I've concluded that the fuel level is too high. I replaced the float valve, but the repair kits don't supply a new seat, as it's an integral part of the float. I've bought new seats and will give that a go, before looking at the float levels. During my first 15 years of ownership, these carbs served me well, so I think I'll persevere with them. The key to getting them balanced is putting some threaded spigots in the vacuum holes on the manifold and putting some vacuum hose on the spigots which run to the side of the frame. Put some nylon couplers in the end of the hoses, which you can blank off when you've finished balancing the carbs.
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Jonny B Bad



Joined: 05 Dec 2009
Posts: 555
Location: NE London

PostPosted: Sun Sep 20, 2015 6:07 pm    Post subject: YB8e Reply with quote

I've also got an 8e, same colour as yours. At least it was until I put a carbon fairing on it, as I wanted to put the 8e fairing on my 8, as the e fairing has some cut-outs at the front which improve air flow into the holes in the frame leading to the air box. When I bought my 8e it had the same damage on the fairing as yours. My seller said: "stress fracture". Stress fracture, my a@@e. They are tricky to work on - particularly getting the carbs on and off and changing the plugs and getting the fairing on & off, but they track well and the motor's very smooth, when it's running right. The 28,000 mile valve clearance interval was always a bit optimistic by Yamaha and they can be a bit thirsty on oil. At least my e is, but it's bored out to 1040 - not sure I can see how much difference another 38 cc is going to make to a 1002 cc motor - and sure enough!

On your screen, I had one made up by GP 500 for my carbon fairing recently, so they've now got a template for the e, as I sent my screen over to them. Their screens come pre-drilled and fit perfectly. I would happily recommend them.

Good luck.
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Jimip86



Joined: 15 Jul 2015
Posts: 49
Location: Derbyshire

PostPosted: Sun Sep 20, 2015 9:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all the great info , I'm determined to make this bike run and look as it deserves.
Regarding the factory pro kits I presume these are listed for fzr1000
I'm making the assumption that the carbs are the same ?
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who



Joined: 10 Nov 2010
Posts: 402
Location: Melbourne Australia

PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2015 4:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's the 89 onwards exup kit. Choose the up jetted version, from memory they run about 107.5 inside 110 outside, its a bit lean, probably for emissions.

120 and 125 make a much happier bike, if you intend to ride it.

It's all Yamaha, apart from the frame, body work, and running gear...lol.

That's why they are such a great bike. Very Happy

The 1040 kit jacks the compression (cheapest power gain) and increases valve to piston clearance, (larger lift cams) it's not just about 40 cc's

Just a point about the fork alignment. Have not seen that particular style of fork, but there is a chance that one that looks like it is sitting higher than the other is because the spring pre-loads are not equal. The preloads on the earlier bikes raises or lowers that section. There is a chance, that if you put a 6 point (not 12) socket onto the hex part of the fork cap, that it will wind in to an acceptable position. Dunno for sure,but worth a look, comments?

http://www.factorypro.com/Prod_Pages/prody06.html
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Jimip86



Joined: 15 Jul 2015
Posts: 49
Location: Derbyshire

PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2015 4:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

great , would i just buy the std recal kit and the emulsion tubes ?
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Jonny B Bad



Joined: 05 Dec 2009
Posts: 555
Location: NE London

PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2015 9:49 pm    Post subject: YB8e Reply with quote

You want the plated emulsion tubes and the titanium needles. I think you get a set of pilots and some proper Mikuni mains thrown in as well.
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who



Joined: 10 Nov 2010
Posts: 402
Location: Melbourne Australia

PostPosted: Tue Sep 22, 2015 8:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's good advice Jonny, the carbs on the exup flog out the emulsion tubes and needles in no time.

I think factory Pro are a committed company, that make great product, and are happy to share information. So they deserve support.

Another great product Factory Pro make are the shift kits.

A heavier shift spring and the arm which is a heavier gauge steel has a bearing (rather than the dodgy yamaha wheel) that mates with the shift drum. Deletes false neutrals pretty much completely, you only need one to destroy the dogs on the gearbox, (when you bash it back in)

Best thing if it ever happens is clutch lever in and get off the racing line, or gracefully pull over to a stop on the road. Stop and re engage, not always practical, but keep it in mind. Or install the shift kit.

Also Barnett clutch springs, (none of the other brands work very well EBC etc) no more slipping, but you need to do the
the clutch basket mod. These engines don't get enough oil onto the plates, so the grabbing in neutral etc. It's another factory pro innovation and makes a big difference to how the box feels, and works. Just google it it's out there.

On the Early black engine models Genesis, they have a narrow clutch plate, and a spring that I've got no idea what it does, however replace it with a normal full sized clutch plate and loose the spring. R6 plates are the same. You may have heard rumors about clutches exploding on this model, but it was just that plate and stupid spring thing?

Good news if you do the factory pro shift kit, you can swap out that odd clutch plate and spring, do the oil mods to the basket and put a set of Barnett spring in, and a new gasket.

It's a couple of hundred dollar, but you have just improved one of these bikes weak points, reduced the false neutral problem to almost zero, stopped clutch slip, which they do if you want to push.

I guess I hope the info is usefull, you wont be disappointed with the results

Cheers, Smile

Also not all jets are created equal, this chart i believe is accurate.

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rOLLI



Joined: 10 Jan 2019
Posts: 97
Location: germany

PostPosted: Fri May 17, 2019 6:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just want to bring up this discussion and have two questions :

Is it possible to remove the spark plugs without lowering the engine ?
Is it possible to remove the carborators without lowering the engine ?

If yes, I would try. But trying wouldn't make sence, if its not possible at all.

Roland
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who



Joined: 10 Nov 2010
Posts: 402
Location: Melbourne Australia

PostPosted: Fri May 17, 2019 7:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes you can do both with the engine in.

You will probably want to either hinge the radiator forward, or remove it to gain access to the plugs.

Carbs can be installed and removed with the engine in also.

Get some new aftermarket inlet rubbers (you will find them on ebay).

While you have the engine out, do your valve clearances, as it is a problem to do them with the engine in.
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2bims



Joined: 03 Apr 2010
Posts: 7289

PostPosted: Fri May 17, 2019 7:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are the spark plugs as "difficult" to get to as on the YB11? As in is the motor the same?...Outside plugs 1 and 4 not such an issue...although I did have to buy a long reach narrow slim wall socket piece to rach down to "grab" and turn the spark plugs to get them out...my normal socket set the walls of the sockets were too thick to get down to the plugs....And for the inner 2 plugs...I had to attach a couple of the twiddly swivel connecters from 2 sockets sets to be able to turn them out with my ratchet ……...Yeh....I recollect dropping the rad...I'd taken it off anyhow to refurb and clean out the system....
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