Bimota Forum

Jonny B Bad · Joined: 05 Dec 2009 Posts: 555 Location: NE London

If you press both buttons simultaneously for 2 seconds you should call up a menu which you can scroll through to adjust tyre circumference and number of pick-ups for the speedo sensor to get an accurate speed reading. I would have thought it would have said that in the manual for the bike, no?
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What, Jonny's gone!

Jonny B Bad · Joined: 05 Dec 2009 Posts: 555 Location: NE London

Sorry, failed to read 2Bims' post of the 27th. I'll get my coat!
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What, Jonny's gone!

Jonny B Bad · Joined: 05 Dec 2009 Posts: 555 Location: NE London

A last ditch attempt to be helpful. If Bimota have locked you out of the menu, how many bobbins have you got on the disc? If it's 4, you could put magnetic bolts in them, assuming you could aim the sensor at them?
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What, Jonny's gone!

Jonny B Bad · Joined: 05 Dec 2009 Posts: 555 Location: NE London

Should have said that changing one disc bolt for a non-magnetic one would not work, as the pick-ups need to be evenly spaced.
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What, Jonny's gone!

2bims · Joined: 03 Apr 2010 Posts: 7289

Cheers for the piccies DBR....certainly seems to be a very very late model...as a fair few changes from earlier DB5R versions...Marzocchis up front and Extreme Tech rear shock instead of Ohlins.....rear drop outs are also honed all the way through....like on Tesi DB6 and standard Db5...normally they are recessed like the frame plates.....as these are also honed all the way through the lesser versions......Not an issue....theres always mods and changes as "Bimota continually strive to achieve perfection"....or as we like to say "What bits we got left in the factory today???"

strange to see a wavey rear disc...but you've defo got a speedo from a different model calibrated to 4 disc bolts and not 5....if youre bothered about reading wrong and adding 25% more miles than actual you could fit a new Koso RX2N unit that is not locked out and allows you to programme it also...as the rear connecter plug is the same and to remove you only need remove the perspex cowel screen to access the plug and 3 small philips head screws on the back of the unit.....just make sure you buy the 10K model...as they do ones with higher rev ranges...they also make nice white faced tacho versions..
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR1.TRC0.A0.H0.XKoso+RX2n.TRS0&_nkw=Koso+RX2n&_sacat=0

Seeing as the oil light is still persisting...I'd guess a faulty sender...small unit screwed in above your oil sight window

Shame you ended up with plastic covers for the cambelts...but then you can easily get carbon ones on the net...just not ones like Bimota had made with triangular recesses in the faces as opposed to just flat

2bims · Joined: 03 Apr 2010 Posts: 7289

Is it the thermometer red light on the central dial thats coming on or the Oil can picture red warning light in the quarter circle of idiot lights on the left coming on? The one under the speedo is Oil Temp...and the one on the left like an oil can is Oil pressure...the horizontal bars to the right of the speed is oil temperature level....and I dont think I've ever seen mine rise above 5 horizontal bars....normal riding its 3 or 4 only...and 5 if in standing traffic

Correction to previous....page 52 of workshop manual says Oil temperature gauge is is on the valve cover of the vertical cylinder....one above your oil sight window is Oil pressure gauge.....Dont know what the wire coming out from under the clutch basket is.....Help anyone?? I have the same on mine...but I would remove that cable tie...its bending the wire horribly and tightly clamping it also...cant be good for it

The sensor you mention is the Lambda Oxygen sensor....supposed to measure residual o2 and adjust your fuel air ratio after its warmed up...should be one on the front header also....maybe for your Ozz emisions you have one on the rear header also...UK bikes just have the front one......

They are a bit of a pig when cold...usually warm it up by leaving it to idle for a few minutes.....ECU cuts off fuel flow if you try to rev it when cold....causing it to cut the engine....so just get it started and leave to idle/warm up

Do you have the slipper clutch also on your bike?....Other bits that differentiate the R from other models is the rear subframe should be alloy and not painted silver steel....a magnet identifies which.....and usually the mushroom headed fairing screws are titanium and not alloy...so keep them secure and dont let them vibrate out and away....

vort28 · Joined: 22 Mar 2010 Posts: 2194 Location: Northwest , UK

Well you may not have carbon belt covers , but you have got the 1100evo motor , and on the experience of riding bikes with the 1100ds and the 1100evo I know which one I would prefer !!!!!!

That will also explain the choke, my 1100evo motor bike does not have any choke either, all done by ECU . Also has the second sensor on the exhaust.

CNC · Joined: 19 Jul 2013 Posts: 257 Location: Slovenia

Hi cbr,

I had the same issue with incorrect speed when I changed the wheels. Original wheels had 4 bolts for disc, new forged 5. I would suggest that you make additional plate with correct number of bolts and fit it under bolds that hold disc. Use slightly smaller diameter for new "fake" bolts, that you can latter adjust sensor to this position. Worked for me since then...

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Bimota DB7, Bimota DB5 Mille, Ducati 916, Ducati M900, Benelli Tornado Tre

CNC · Joined: 19 Jul 2013 Posts: 257 Location: Slovenia

Sorry - I don't know why photos are not visible...
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Bimota DB7, Bimota DB5 Mille, Ducati 916, Ducati M900, Benelli Tornado Tre

CBR_DBR · Joined: 19 Sep 2015 Posts: 25 Location: Canberra Australia

Hi CNC,

I'm interested to see what you solution looks like (not sure if I picture it correctly in my head).

I have to admit that I am toying with the idea of buying a standard Koso RX2N so that I:
A - get all the features of the unit and can set it up properly
B - avoid having to find a workaround for the bolts at the rear.

I would have to have any solution, such as you plate, made by someone. I'm OK with mechanical stuff, but don't have the skills to machine parts myself. The cost of having that done would go part of the way to buying a new unit.

It's a good thing I love Italian engineering otherwise I might think it madness having to fix stuff on a brand new bike Very Happy

Cheers,

Mike

2bims · Joined: 03 Apr 2010 Posts: 7289

Think youre quite lucky with your DB5R....not that much wrong with it so far.... Laughing

.....I suppose though like most of us....you've not bought it new from a Bimota Dealer or at "full list price"....when new they were around 20,000GBP...or 43,000Aud (without the import premium that you guys suffer)...I know there was an aussie Bimota dealer that went bump over there and his stock went the way of the auctions....

On previous posts...I mentioned your Oil temp gauge may be on the rear cylinder head...I've now changed my thoughts on that with your engine....and believe its that cable on the bottom below the oil sight window that is tortuously bent and folded and crimped by 2 cable ties.....the oil temp works via a "thermister"....whereby heat changes the resistance of electric through it....causing a reading for oil temp to be created.....those bends and cable ties in the cable tie will cause a resistance to current itself.....

CNC · Joined: 19 Jul 2013 Posts: 257 Location: Slovenia

Guys - does upload function on this forum still workong? I get this: Warning: imagecreatefromstring() [function.imagecreatefromstring]: Empty string or invalid image in /usr/users1/tolerant/public_html/bimotaforum/uploadimagedisplay.php on line 115

cbr - give me your email on pm and I'll sent you pictures...
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Bimota DB7, Bimota DB5 Mille, Ducati 916, Ducati M900, Benelli Tornado Tre

vort28 · Joined: 22 Mar 2010 Posts: 2194 Location: Northwest , UK

Gavin944888 · Posted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 9:40 am Post subject:

My photograghs only seem to work.......... if I use Brian!!

regards
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CBR_DBR · Joined: 19 Sep 2015 Posts: 25 Location: Canberra Australia

Hi 2bims,

You are right in saying that these are only minor niggles and it doesn't stop me enjoying the DB!

Haven't got around to it yet but I will untangle the wiring of the oil temperature sensor. Didn't get a chance to ride the bike this weekend but I also want to check how many bars are showing for the oil temperature when the temperature light comes on. I'm assuming it should be 5-6 but I won't be surprised if it's less.

I'm not too worried that the oil temperature is actually too high but I'd like try and make the instruments behave in a slightly more rational way.

Cheers,

Mike