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New member - DB6R question

 
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osiris42



Joined: 14 Oct 2016
Posts: 2
Location: Denver, CO

PostPosted: Fri Oct 14, 2016 6:23 pm    Post subject: New member - DB6R question Reply with quote

Greetings all, I'm new the forum and wanted to introduce myself. I live in Denver, CO home of some amazing mountain rides right out the back door, and the proud pappa of 6 month old boy, and 2008 DB6R I picked up with 900 miles. Fortunately, despite sitting for 5 years, the DB6R is less maintenance than the kiddo.

The shop I bought it for was great about going through the bike from top to bottom before the sale, and did some tuning after the sale. They even split the price of the the Walbro software and cable with me.

2 Questions:

1) Does anyone have any detailed data for the Marzocchi 50mm fork rebuild?

The shop replaced a leaking fork seal as part of the sale, but after it started leaking again with less than 700 miles on the new seal, I pulled it apart and found that the metal washer above the oil seal was installed backwards (it has a small recess in one side, which should face the seal, not the bushing). This was difficult to figure out, but I found from a friend that a very similar Marzocchi 50mm fork is on the MV Augusta, and the parts manual for that fork shows a cross section that, very subtly indicates the proper washer direction.

I found the rebuild parts and got some info from Bob at Bimota spirit but was looking for some more info, possibly in writing from Marzocchi (which has no documentation for this fork). The MV Augusta data did not seem to make sense for the DB6 fork as the volume of oil and distance measurement didn't even come close to correlating on the DB6R Fork.

Does anyone know what are the stock settings for the rebound and compression?

How much oil goes in after a rebuild?

As found, mine were Rebound: 2 turns out, Compression: 1-1/2 turns out.
Oil: 7.5 sae Marzocchi, approx 665cc, measured 135mm from top tube (without springs and spacers)

I've seen a few people on the forum indicate better settings that are bit less stiff (A good thing given the seating arrangement and the city road conditions where I live)

2) Does anyone have screen shots, or parameters for the stock Walbro ECU settings?

My bike seems to be very cold blooded (no manual choke) and doesn't like to idle initially. Was going to fiddle with idle settings, but don't have much experience here so looking for a little help. There are two parameters; IDLE_OFFSET_0, AND IDLE_OFFSET_1, these are both set to 1.172 which makes me wonder why they would have two parameters if they are the same. Wondering if one is a "cold" value, and one is a "warm" value.

Anyway, thanks in advance for any assistance. It's great to know there are folks out there with the same brain damage I have
Very Happy
_________________
Cheers,

_____________
2008 Bimota DB6R Delirio, 2000 Ducati Monster M900Sie, 2011 BMW R1200RT, 1964 Vespa V90 Racer, 1965 Lambretta Li125, 1974 Vespa 150 Super
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2bims



Joined: 03 Apr 2010
Posts: 7289

PostPosted: Fri Oct 14, 2016 8:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi there, and welcome to the forum....I'm pretty sure the owners manual has the stock settings....which are higher numbers than what you state...I'll dig out the settings....although everyone changes them as they are set up track day perfect Road stiff by the factory...do you have the workshop manuals for the bike?... Available for free from Bimota.it website...or I could forward on......I presume that your bike still has the cats fitted in the zard headers???.. These take a while to heat up and work...starting and initial running can be hard...fuel injection cuts out if you dare touch the throttle until warmed up...a few of us have fitted cat free zard headers that eliminates most of the issue....zard Italy will sell them direct, if you need an English speaking contact I can provide one...
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osiris42



Joined: 14 Oct 2016
Posts: 2
Location: Denver, CO

PostPosted: Sat Oct 15, 2016 2:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the reply.

I do have the shop manual, but the shocks in the manual indicate a 43mm fork, while mine is a 50mm. The compression and rebound settings are stated in "clicks". Mine don't click.

But now that I look, it looks like I had the wrong manual and now that I have the right one, it looks more like my setup.

Any input as to more streetable settings would be greatly appreciated.

The previous owner swapped out the stock exhaust with the Zard carbon fiber sans catalytic converters, but still have pretty poor cold performance. generally need to hold the throttle cocked while it warms up (for a minute or so), or else it quits.
_________________
Cheers,

_____________
2008 Bimota DB6R Delirio, 2000 Ducati Monster M900Sie, 2011 BMW R1200RT, 1964 Vespa V90 Racer, 1965 Lambretta Li125, 1974 Vespa 150 Super
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quikduk



Joined: 13 Aug 2016
Posts: 287
Location: Southern California, USA

PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2017 6:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Welcome to the forum.

I have a 2007 DB6 (non-R) with the Pegaso setup but I believe our suspension is the same. I can't vouch for the fork oil as I haven't changed it yet but I will check the revised settings that the bike has after attending a local suspension clinic at my friend's Ducati shop and post them on here later this week.

I have also been debating swapping to the non-cat headers but haven't pulled the trigger yet. My bike still has a manual choke which helps with the starting and warmup. I just have to remember to shut it off after a few miles but I am so busy enjoying the ride that I always forget for a bit longer.

Cute picture BTW and congratulations. Italian bike parts and maintenance pale in comparison to the cost of kids but the joys are more rewarding...sometimes. Wink

Regards
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