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Rayzee
Joined: 03 Sep 2017 Posts: 4 Location: London UK
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Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2018 8:24 am Post subject: Marzocchi MR1 fork Manual |
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Morning guys.
I have a YB7 and am in need of some fork oil and dust seals.
Does anybody know where I can obtain these and a Fork manual from please?
I've finally got the engine going. It's not run since 2004, only has 4400 KMs from new, 1989,
Now to start the rest of the restoration.
Can anyone suggest a good painters? the fairing has some damage.
I appreciate your help, in advance.
Thanks.
Ray. _________________ Rayzee =]
Bikes owned. Bimota YB7 1989. Suzuki GSXR 750 K8 Track bike. Triumph Street Triple. Kawasaki ER500. |
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2bims
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Joined: 03 Apr 2010 Posts: 7289
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Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2018 10:05 am Post subject: |
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Hi Rayzee...I see you've been on here for some 6 months...but haven't filled in your profile...not an issue...most people put in at least their country....and that helps with recommendations as to where to buy seals and dust caps from...as they are still available.....so....whereabouts are you?...Pointless in buying from the UK if you live in Oz or USA...and vice versa...Congrats on the purchase and joining the forum also |
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2bims
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Joined: 03 Apr 2010 Posts: 7289
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Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2018 10:19 am Post subject: |
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Some info here....as the forks were fitted to some ducatis also....
they are called Marzocchi M1R's 41.7mm
Link here to the Workshop Manual...which you can download, save, print etc
http://www.bevelheaven.com/manuals/M1R/index.htm
More information from DOCGB, sure they dont mind.
Fork legs are both different, one compression fixed and one rebound, adjustable at the bottom right slider. I went for a full rebuild as mentioned elsewhere, leaving externals original but with new springs and damping cartridges making both legs identical.
I have a pair of 41.7 M1R legs, all the internals, springs, damping etc working fine if this helps?
Good luck
Fork Set-up
The following information supplied by Marzocchi in Feb.1986
and should be use for the 1989-90 Ducati 851 and SP versions,
Bimota DB1, S, SR series motorcycles.
This what I have found and what actually worked well for me (170 lbs) and
my son (120lbs).
GENERAL INFORMATION
The right fork assembly controls rebound (knob at the bottom of the fork
slider) and the left fork assembly controls compression (no control
anywhere).
Different levels and different viscosities of oils can be used to suit
conditions. This is the beauty of these forks. Adjustments on each leg will
not effect the
other. Only fork springs and oil levels need to remain the same. Oil
viscosity can be
varied on each leg if you are competant enough to judge and appreciate the
differences.
Fork Springs
There seems to be misleading and inconsistant information on the springs
for the M1R forks. There are 2 springs, one in each leg. Some parts
breakdowns will
only show one and even Marzocchi literature is misleading when it actually
shows NO
SPRING in the crossection of left fork tube. Trust me.......there ARE 2
springs.
Marzocchi has different fork springs for the 42mm M1R forks which are:
Light Spring-------30 inch/lbs---------Part # 18.0071
Medium Spring ---40 inch/lbs---------Part # 18.0072 (standard)
Heavy Spring-----50 inch/lbs---------Part # 18.0073 (standard)
Progressive Suspension has springs (Part # PS 1130). They work extremely
well especially with the adjustable preload caps (no Part #) on pg. 7 of the
Pro Italia, June 1994 catalog. These adjustable caps were made for the
Ducati 750 Paso and the 907 Paso.
FORK TUBES
It appears that the right and left fork tubes are of different lengths as
supplied on a motorcycle and there are different lengths available.
YOKES (Triple Trees)
Different offsets and stem diameters are available.
OIL LEVEL(s)
The oil level is measured from the top of the open fork tube (cap off)
to the centerline (repeat: centerline) top of the oil inside the upper
fork tube. Take the springs(s) out and compress the fork completely to make
this
measurement.
38mm tube models should have 160 mm of air distance from top
42mm tube models take 170mm of air distance from top.
I recommend you buy one of the many availble fork oil measuring
tools that look like a very large medial syringe with a long tube where the
needle would be. On that tube there is a sliding disc that will rest on the
top of your
fork tube. The idea is to put a large amount of oil in the tube and then
(with the tool) you
suck off the unwanted oil and then repeat for the second tube. Simple and
very accurate.....IF
the forks are verticle.
Use 5 weight oil for temps 10-15 centrigrade (30-50 farenheit)
Use 10 weight oil for temps above 15c (50 degrees f )
Adjust the oil viscosity to suit temps. There is 2 wt oil for colder
temps and you can "play" with mixtures as you desire and learn.
The right fork leg with the knob down on the bottom is for REBOUND and
has 4 (yes only 4) positions. You can rotate past 4 and will go back to 1
After you get the oil and spring(s) installed you should be able to tell the
1 position from the 4 position.
There are different springs in the REBOUND adjustment (knob area) to
adjust the range of rebound dampening rates (not to mention you can play
with oils).
Light rebound: Spring # 71.0050
Medium rebound: Spring # 71.0051 (nromal)
Heavy rebound: Spring # 71.0052 (normal)
Use no air in these forks. From time to time you will need to bleed off
unwanted
air that gets trapped in the forks.
MODIFICATIONS TO FORK LEGS (Tubes)
In March 1986 a Marzocchi service bulletin recommended:
Left tube: drilling a 6mm hole, 65mm from the bottom of the fork tube
Right tube: drilling a 6mm hole, 35mm from the bottom of the fork tube.
BE CERTAIN TO "DEBUR" THIS HOLE AND SMOOTH EDGES OF
DRILLED HOLE AS BEST POSSIBLE. |
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Rayzee
Joined: 03 Sep 2017 Posts: 4 Location: London UK
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Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2018 10:51 am Post subject: |
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Hi 2 Bims.
Thanks very much for the replies, and info. I'm in London, I've just updated my profile, ill load a profile pic up ASAP.
I finally got the engine going yesterday.
Rayzee. =] _________________ Rayzee =]
Bikes owned. Bimota YB7 1989. Suzuki GSXR 750 K8 Track bike. Triumph Street Triple. Kawasaki ER500. |
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2bims
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Joined: 03 Apr 2010 Posts: 7289
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Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2018 11:21 am Post subject: |
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Ah Ok.....a Londoner...not a problem....this is a .co.uk forum....but there are Bimota fans/owners from all over the world on here....anyone with a grasp of the english language comes here...and it helps others to chime if they know locally anyone that can help....Forget the upload profile pic....its pictures of the bike we want...I use IMGUR imaging to upload photos...a guide of how to is in this thread
http://www.bimotaforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=5436&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=15
I've bought M1R fork seals and dust caps from Mdina Italia before...uk based....not currently showing on their website...but its clunky and not updated often....Old skool place....so give them a call...like "real old skool"...as their prices are reasonable also
phone number at bottom here
https://www.mdinaitalia.co.uk/ |
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Rayzee
Joined: 03 Sep 2017 Posts: 4 Location: London UK
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Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2018 11:30 am Post subject: |
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Thank you 2Bims.
I'll Post up some pics when I get home.
Your my hero! _________________ Rayzee =]
Bikes owned. Bimota YB7 1989. Suzuki GSXR 750 K8 Track bike. Triumph Street Triple. Kawasaki ER500. |
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2bims
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Joined: 03 Apr 2010 Posts: 7289
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Rayzee
Joined: 03 Sep 2017 Posts: 4 Location: London UK
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Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2018 12:02 pm Post subject: |
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Thank you.
I got the manual in PDF from Andy Dogget when I joined last year, along with lots of other helpful information and a couple of bits.
You guys really are a godsend. I'd not known where to start without you all.
I really appreciate it. _________________ Rayzee =]
Bikes owned. Bimota YB7 1989. Suzuki GSXR 750 K8 Track bike. Triumph Street Triple. Kawasaki ER500. |
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2bims
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Joined: 03 Apr 2010 Posts: 7289
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Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2018 1:09 pm Post subject: |
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Pack drill....No names on here....you got parts and pdf from "laminator"....who is a good old fellow...and certainly the go-to man for most YB knowledge |
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