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Rear Brake switch not turning the brake light
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2bims



Joined: 03 Apr 2010
Posts: 7289

PostPosted: Sun May 19, 2019 9:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If no pressure then it wont work the pressure switch.....Its a brembo unit so should be available from brembo suppliers...measure the centres of the bolt holes fixing and search from there...as thats about the only bit that changes....you can get rebuild kits...but not in US as Brembo got sued there for selling them...someone got injured after fitting the kit wrong and sued brembo ….Thats the Yanks for ya??….KTM sell rebuild kits as they are Austrian and dont care...and you can get them in Europe also...sometimes its easier and not much coin extra to just buy a new one.....Brembo do some real neat ones now with the reservoir pot built into the unit slimline style...nice pieces of kit and an upgrade...thats what I usually do if a brembo master goes down on me...replace with an upgrade
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redman412



Joined: 10 Dec 2016
Posts: 22
Location: NYC

PostPosted: Sun May 19, 2019 1:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

fair enough, but found a supplier in the usa. How we identify the unit ? just by measuring the bolt holes?
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2bims



Joined: 03 Apr 2010
Posts: 7289

PostPosted: Sun May 19, 2019 8:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Theres usually a raised number on all brembo units giving you the serial code...evidently you want it to fit the bespoke hanger frame plate lugs...so measure the centres to be sure...and check that the inlets and outlets are in the same position for routing of the reservoir fill hose and the brake light banjo and braided steel hose line to the rear caliper.....Its a bit like calipers for brembo...hole centres vary...and on rear brake masters...they can have 2 side entry connecters.....or one side and one top connecter....I'm lucky...I just waltze into my local ducati dealer 1/2 mile away with my verniers and measurements and photo of the unit and scan their extensive stock of Ducatis...That like Bimota...ALWAYS use brembo masters and calipers, discs etc.....find a copy and then scan ebay for that model and brembo units...sometimes I buy from them direct...the dealer that is...sometimes its cheaper than ebay as sellers on there have to add 25% to price as 20% gets taken by ebay and paypal fees...Ebay is NOT always your friend.....Other sales outlets and on-line shops are available......
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redman412



Joined: 10 Dec 2016
Posts: 22
Location: NYC

PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2019 1:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The saga continues, replaced the master cylinder, installed the switch, bleed the brake. Bleed and bleed, no back pressure from the caliper. Brake fluid flows from the bleeder with no air. took the caliper out, push the pistons out, reservoir fluid barely moved. Anyone knows the rebuild kit for this caliper? I check for any numbering on it, but nothing. Any info is welcome
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2bims



Joined: 03 Apr 2010
Posts: 7289

PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2019 4:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

rarely rarely rarely would such a relatively new brembo caliper need rebuilding...I have 30 year plus brembo calipers still operating fine.....But...same caliper is used on many ducatis so if you have a local dealer mooch around...or search on the internet for ducatis of the same era....as Bimota always used the up to date brembo units sold at the time....start here....Ducati 749's...848's...999's....1098's...1198's...Hypermotards, MOnsters etc made 2006/2007/2008 etc

https://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/bikes/Ducati2.html

Rear brake caliper notoriously difficult to bleed out....impossible if caliper still mounted to underlung caliper bracket....because air likes to be at the top.....to be able to bleed out of the brake caliper bleed nipple....leave the master cylinder in place on the bike with res pot etc....unbolt the caliper from the bracket on the rear...and elevate the caliper above the master cylinder.....place something disc thickness sized between the pistons...and rotate the caliper so the bleed nipple is highest at the top.......Place an air tube or "easy bleeder" tube and unit on the nipple....pump master a few times and hold down and quickly "snap and crack" the nipple....which is quickly snap it open and a second or two later crack it closed...doesnt have to be so tight...and repeat this process until no air is coming out....and pressure should return on the brake pedal.....some people "reverse bleed and fill" via the nipple....but a kit is needed for this...Make sure the res pot doesnt run dry....or else you'll draw air back into the system....
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redman412



Joined: 10 Dec 2016
Posts: 22
Location: NYC

PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2019 5:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Will try that method Tomorrow, thanks for the advise!!
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2bims



Joined: 03 Apr 2010
Posts: 7289

PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2019 7:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It should work...you just have to remember the bearest of Physics/Chemistry...Air is lighter than fluids....so rises up through it...but it takes the path of least resistance...so is likely trying to go up via the line to the master.....so you need the line and caliper at the highest point and the bleed nipple also.....the holding down of the pedal while crack and snapping is to pressurise even if you dont feel any to force the trapped air bubbles up and out......the lack of pressure is because theres air in it and air can be compressed many times...1ATM 10 metres....10ATM's 100metres...air is half and half and half again its volume etc....from recollection....Brake fluid on the overhand is non compressible and stays the same volume when pressurised...hence constant brake feel and pressure under use....Clutch masters and the slave is the same...a nightmare coz the masters high and slave low....But now they put bleed nipples on the master assemblies also...clutch and front brake...coz of the issue...
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redman412



Joined: 10 Dec 2016
Posts: 22
Location: NYC

PostPosted: Mon Jun 03, 2019 5:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It work!!! After 1/2 hour of doin it your way, it woked. thank you!!!
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2bims



Joined: 03 Apr 2010
Posts: 7289

PostPosted: Mon Jun 03, 2019 8:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another Happy Customer....1/2 an hour is not bad......And i'll bet there were a lot of little bubbles coming out.....

If ever you need to do the clutch slave....the procedure is the same...remove clutch slave///And raise up high...BUT...cable tie twice around the slave cylinder whilst bleeding....because when its not fitted to the bike it will push the piston all the way out of the slave.....and then you lose all your fluid.....It is helped normally if you have brembo radial clutch master...as they have introduced a bleed nipple on the master....
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2bims



Joined: 03 Apr 2010
Posts: 7289

PostPosted: Mon Jun 03, 2019 8:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another Happy Customer....1/2 an hour is not bad......And i'll bet there were a lot of little bubbles coming out.....

If ever you need to do the clutch slave....the procedure is the same...remove clutch slave///And raise up high...BUT...cable tie twice around the slave cylinder whilst bleeding....because when its not fitted to the bike it will push the piston all the way out of the slave.....and then you lose all your fluid.....It is helped normally if you have brembo radial clutch master...as they have introduced a bleed nipple on the master....
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