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Bimota SB6 from Italy
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Mako



Joined: 17 Dec 2011
Posts: 141
Location: Reggio Emilia, Italy

PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2011 8:02 am    Post subject: Bimota SB6 from Italy Reply with quote

Hi all, I'm a newbye from Italy with my "new" 1995 SB6 with only 3500km on the clock. I'm a bike maniac and my garage hosts some other good stuff (the queen is the RC30) from 70 to 90. The Bim was a dream since long ago... now here I am




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I can'twait to use it but now the weather is not ideal for lean and turns on the Appennino

I have a minor problem on the bike: the stop bulb doesn't work. I've checked the bulb and changed, checked the master link under the fairing, sprayed with contact cleaner but still no light when brake is activated.
rear light work properly, so I guess is a dirty contact, but can't guess where...
Today I try to dismount the rear light before undress the bike (I would avoid, if possible).
any suggestion welcome

bye all
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MARTIN



Joined: 09 Dec 2009
Posts: 226
Location: ABERDEEN SCOTLAND

PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2011 9:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bon journo, welcome to the forum.

I would have a look at the banjo brakelight switch located beside the rear brake master cylinder, could be faulty or have faulty connections.
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Marty
State of the art and leading edge of cocking things up

(00) SB6 (95) HD FXDWG STRETCH (01)GSXR1000K1
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oily



Joined: 05 Apr 2008
Posts: 4788
Location: worcestershire

PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2011 10:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Welcome to the forum.............
Firstly eliminate the brake switches (front and rear) by disconnecting the wires and shorting them. If that works, check the fuse, if that's ok then wiring which is probably behind rear light.
Good luck
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brian



Joined: 22 Aug 2011
Posts: 3769
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2011 1:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When i bought my SB6 the brake light would not work from front or rear switches. The front switch just needed adjusting to get the lever to operate it properly. At the rear, the banjo switch was faulty. I'm yet to replace the rear banjo switch.

Welcome to the forum.
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'99 DB4 #104, '96 SB6 #1165, '94 DB2 J #652, '99 DB4 #088, '08 VTX1800, '93 ZXR750R M1, '95 ZXR750, '95 ZXR750 Race Bike, '94 CBR400rr NC29 Race Bike, '94 CB250, '49 BSA C10 250, '61 BSA A10 650, '89 ZXR750, '91 Ducati 851
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Mako



Joined: 17 Dec 2011
Posts: 141
Location: Reggio Emilia, Italy

PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2011 2:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thank you...
this morning I had the first taste of the SB6....
- carburation really too rich... after a short trip it seams to get the spark plugs dirty or wet (average rpm around 4/5000)
- Coolant temperature gauge quite unreliable, from "cold" to "hot" in a blink of an eye...
- suspension set up ... unjudgeble (does this word exist?) ... hard behind and butter in the front end.... surely need a fine set up.


but.... what a cool engine and very nice pilot position. I'm 1.71cm and this bike fits me like a glove...

This afternoon I'll take off the fairing and look for connection problem for the stop light and study how to lean the low rpm carburation set up.
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oily



Joined: 05 Apr 2008
Posts: 4788
Location: worcestershire

PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2011 2:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ummm...........
You have problems with your Bimota..
Welcome to Bimota ownership Laughing
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Mako



Joined: 17 Dec 2011
Posts: 141
Location: Reggio Emilia, Italy

PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 6:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

carburation issue: yesterday the temperature was around 5 degrees, and I found strange that I had to use only a bit of choke... like the idle setup is already very rich.
Today I'll strip off the fairing and look for spark plugs, maybe they are to cold for this season too and are easy to get fouled. Iridium plugs could be better?

Temperature: the temperature gauge sat flat for minutes than rised up to hot in a while and then reached near the red zone... could be a foulty reader or a bad thermostat?

I searched on the web for a workshop manual but still haven't found (I already found with your help the part list, gsxr1100 and paioli forxs manual)

sorry for so many questions, but on the whole internet this site seems to be the most competent on Bimotas
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oily



Joined: 05 Apr 2008
Posts: 4788
Location: worcestershire

PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 9:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mako wrote:

sorry for so many questions, but on the whole internet this site seems to be the most competent on Bimotas


Glad you realise this Laughing
The Sb6 fuelling is a compromise all through the rev range mainly due to the small air box and most I've come across tend to run rich.
Iridium plugs do not work too well in these engines partly due to the rich fuelling. Iridium plugs do not like to get wet Wink
use them at your peril.
Bimota's very own workshop manual is pretty useless with the engine section being a direct copy of the Suzuki manual and the wiring diagrams being black and white.
What type of temperature gauge do you have. Is it the early Suzuki type? which is normally mega reliable or is it the later CEV type which is mega unreliable? (pictures are always good).
you need to hope it's not a bad thermostat as these are difficult to find (although you are in the right country to badger the manufactures). If it were the thermostat I would guess it would fail open or closed and not be erratic. My money would be on a faulty CEV temp gauge Wink
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Mako



Joined: 17 Dec 2011
Posts: 141
Location: Reggio Emilia, Italy

PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 9:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

oily wrote:
Mako wrote:

sorry for so many questions, but on the whole internet this site seems to be the most competent on Bimotas


Glad you realise this Laughing
The Sb6 fuelling is a compromise all through the rev range mainly due to the small air box and most I've come across tend to run rich.
Iridium plugs do not work too well in these engines partly due to the rich fuelling. Iridium plugs do not like to get wet Wink
use them at your peril.
Bimota's very own workshop manual is pretty useless with the engine section being a direct copy of the Suzuki manual and the wiring diagrams being black and white.
What type of temperature gauge do you have. Is it the early Suzuki type? which is normally mega reliable or is it the later CEV type which is mega unreliable? (pictures are always good).
you need to hope it's not a bad thermostat as these are difficult to find (although you are in the right country to badger the manufactures). If it were the thermostat I would guess it would fail open or closed and not be erratic. My money would be on a faulty CEV temp gauge Wink


it's a CEV type:



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Hope that's the problem, even if I don't feel confortable riding with coolant on red line... Rolling Eyes
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Pompey



Joined: 31 Jul 2008
Posts: 2311
Location: Marlborough

PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 11:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

On a lighter note, you always have the reliable old super light to ride. Unlike oily who is 2cylinderphobic and only rides in line 4's!
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Pomps
Bimota's Db2, Db5 ,Ducati's 851' 92, 888' 93, Honda blade' 93, Triumph speed triple' 07, kawasaki zxr 750 k1
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oily



Joined: 05 Apr 2008
Posts: 4788
Location: worcestershire

PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 11:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought phobic was "fear of". I'm not actually frightened of doochati twin engines, I could hit them with big hamers all day long and probably produce a better sound than they do Laughing
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Mako



Joined: 17 Dec 2011
Posts: 141
Location: Reggio Emilia, Italy

PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 1:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Laughing
the supersport is an onest bike, this summer took me to belgium and Netherland, and the year before to the gorges du Verdon in France. I can't complain of Ducatis...
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oily



Joined: 05 Apr 2008
Posts: 4788
Location: worcestershire

PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 2:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What......all those miles and absolutly nothing went wrong with the engine?????
You need to check that your engine wasn't swaped for a Suzuki TL engine if that's the case Laughing
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Mako



Joined: 17 Dec 2011
Posts: 141
Location: Reggio Emilia, Italy

PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 6:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

oily wrote:
What......all those miles and absolutly nothing went wrong with the engine?????
You need to check that your engine wasn't swaped for a Suzuki TL engine if that's the case Laughing


I have had problems with voltage regulator and oil pressure switch. And overheating in traffic (it's air cooled) that make the clutch slippery... but nothing else (writing with one hand under the desk Very Happy )

Back to the Bim: took off the fairing (wanna meet the designer and ask his favourite brand of whisky, I would avoid in future).
Checked the front stop switch at the pump and that's the fault... I'll buy a new one, it should be a common spare...
About overheating: the coolant tank was empty, and opening the radiator cup and squeezing the main hose i barely hear bubbles.... The shop told me that they fulfilled with new coolant.... Shocked
Spark plug: ngk standard 9. But they weren't so black.... they had a white top instead... could the malfunction has been caused by overheating (I think I've done 5km at all...)?
From what I see the radiator needs a good cleaning, as it has green and red rubbish in it...
Other thing I've noticed is that the reservoir sump in the tank leaks fuel from the ground cable...
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oily



Joined: 05 Apr 2008
Posts: 4788
Location: worcestershire

PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 7:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ah ha..........No problems eh Laughing

Back to sorting your real bike Wink
If the shop changed the coolant, I bet they did not know how to bleed the air out of the cooling system (I hope) and maybe that's why it's running hot with a very low coolant level. The alternative is a lot worse so better if you fill up with coolant and try that before we go any further Wink
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