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Mako
Joined: 17 Dec 2011 Posts: 141 Location: Reggio Emilia, Italy
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Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 12:49 pm Post subject: |
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oily wrote: |
Yes it does sound crazy, and guess what ?
It is crazy.........
To take the sproket cover off you need to drop the engine completly or at least swing it forward on the front engine mountings
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news
The simplist way out of this problem is................................sell it to me |
no way
thanks for the informations... I think I will try to wash the pump while installed. Do you think I can use some cleaner-degreaser like "Fulcron" or it could damage something? _________________ Honda CB450K1 - CB750K2 - CB500K1 - RC30 - Ducati 750SS - Bimota SB6 |
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oily
Joined: 05 Apr 2008 Posts: 4788 Location: worcestershire
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Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 12:59 pm Post subject: |
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You do need to be carful what chemicals you use in the cooling system so as not to contaminate it or corrode the alloy parts
I would suggest a mild solution of caustic soda and then flush it out with copious amounts of fresh water
I suppose you can use most cleaners as long as they are properly flushed out on compleation |
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oily
Joined: 05 Apr 2008 Posts: 4788 Location: worcestershire
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Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2012 11:28 am Post subject: |
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Just been reading a coolant manufacturers web site and they recommend flushing your coolant system with nothing stronger than a 50/50 solution of distilled water and white vinegar
Can't see that shifting any scaling or corrosion
On the "big bore" engine, which was fairly full of oil and crap from a knackered head-gasket, i used a propriety rad flush which seemed to do the job. Followed by copious amounts of fresh water to clean out the rad flush and debris and then filled the system with a 50/50 solution of distilled water and a quality anti freeze/corrosion inhibitor
No problems to date |
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Mako
Joined: 17 Dec 2011 Posts: 141 Location: Reggio Emilia, Italy
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Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2012 8:29 pm Post subject: |
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oily wrote: |
Just been reading a coolant manufacturers web site and they recommend flushing your coolant system with nothing stronger than a 50/50 solution of distilled water and white vinegar
Can't see that shifting any scaling or corrosion
On the "big bore" engine, which was fairly full of oil and crap from a knackered head-gasket, i used a propriety rad flush which seemed to do the job. Followed by copious amounts of fresh water to clean out the rad flush and debris and then filled the system with a 50/50 solution of distilled water and a quality anti freeze/corrosion inhibitor
No problems to date |
many thanks, I will use some winegar.
when you reinstall the cooling system with old hoses do you use some sealant or you simply trust in clamps to avoid leaks? _________________ Honda CB450K1 - CB750K2 - CB500K1 - RC30 - Ducati 750SS - Bimota SB6 |
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oily
Joined: 05 Apr 2008 Posts: 4788 Location: worcestershire
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Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2012 8:33 pm Post subject: |
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For used hoses.....
I always use a hint of suzukibond |
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Mako
Joined: 17 Dec 2011 Posts: 141 Location: Reggio Emilia, Italy
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Posted: Wed Jan 18, 2012 2:31 pm Post subject: |
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oily wrote: |
For used hoses.....
I always use a hint of suzukibond |
ok, I will use Hondabond (it's a matter of religion) _________________ Honda CB450K1 - CB750K2 - CB500K1 - RC30 - Ducati 750SS - Bimota SB6 |
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oily
Joined: 05 Apr 2008 Posts: 4788 Location: worcestershire
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Posted: Wed Jan 18, 2012 2:40 pm Post subject: |
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I wouldn't use hondabond on a suzuki......
the rejection rate is quite high |
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Mako
Joined: 17 Dec 2011 Posts: 141 Location: Reggio Emilia, Italy
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Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 10:08 am Post subject: |
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Hi all again
I remounted the front end, but unfortunatly I didn't make any photos of the steering damper clamp position on the right fork.
I mounted it under the bottom triple tree, but I doubt it's the right position. I mean it could be a dangerous stopper for the fork work during hard braking. Anyone has a photo or can tell if it goes between the right handlebar and the bottom triple tree (leaving the fork free to work for its whole stroke)?
BTW, the rubber steering stopper (the ring that hits the frame) where should be placed? to hit the bottom half of the frame or the upper half?... that should change the steering ability.
thank you as usual _________________ Honda CB450K1 - CB750K2 - CB500K1 - RC30 - Ducati 750SS - Bimota SB6 |
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Mako
Joined: 17 Dec 2011 Posts: 141 Location: Reggio Emilia, Italy
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Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 10:44 am Post subject: |
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Mako wrote: |
Hi all again
I remounted the front end, but unfortunatly I didn't make any photos of the steering damper clamp position on the right fork.
I mounted it under the bottom triple tree, but I doubt it's the right position. I mean it could be a dangerous stopper for the fork work during hard braking. Anyone has a photo or can tell if it goes between the right handlebar and the bottom triple tree (leaving the fork free to work for its whole stroke)?
BTW, the rubber steering stopper (the ring that hits the frame) where should be placed? to hit the bottom half of the frame or the upper half?... that should change the steering ability.
thank you as usual |
looking on the forum (always a mine of informations) i found the first photo on the topic "winter manteinance). It's quite clear that the steering damper clamp goes over the lower triple tree... very close, but over.
and the rubber stopper has to hit the lower half of the frame... _________________ Honda CB450K1 - CB750K2 - CB500K1 - RC30 - Ducati 750SS - Bimota SB6 |
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Pompey
Joined: 31 Jul 2008 Posts: 2311 Location: Marlborough
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Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 11:05 am Post subject: |
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Well done Mako. Surprising what is lurking around the archives of this forum. It is important for everyone to consider changing a thread to cover a new subject should it arise to make searching for the gems easier. Good to hear its coming on! _________________ Pomps
Bimota's Db2, Db5 ,Ducati's 851' 92, 888' 93, Honda blade' 93, Triumph speed triple' 07, kawasaki zxr 750 k1 |
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Evilchicken0
Joined: 12 May 2010 Posts: 2996 Location: London
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Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 5:15 pm Post subject: |
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True but if you don't search it gives a good excuse to post more (or the same) pics
so, just above the lower clamp _________________ Don't read everything you believe |
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Ekku
Joined: 22 Feb 2012 Posts: 24 Location: Finland
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Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 5:31 pm Post subject: Streetfighter? |
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When looking the last picture, it is easy to find out, why nobody makes streetfigter from these after the bodywork trashing crash...
It looks even more beautiful on the other side _________________ Older i get, faster I was |
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Mako
Joined: 17 Dec 2011 Posts: 141 Location: Reggio Emilia, Italy
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Posted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 7:03 pm Post subject: |
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bike remounted and tried for an hour: even if the cooling circuit has been flushed and the clogged pipe is changed it still overheat (red zone of the CEV gauge)... the fan turns on.. and it's still winter ... what about summer???
but the bike runs great, it's not so angry as I thought... fast but friendly.
rear brake doesn't exist, but it doesn't matter to me as I use it only in panic stops _________________ Honda CB450K1 - CB750K2 - CB500K1 - RC30 - Ducati 750SS - Bimota SB6 |
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oily
Joined: 05 Apr 2008 Posts: 4788 Location: worcestershire
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Posted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 7:59 pm Post subject: |
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Mako wrote: |
bike remounted and tried for an hour: even if the cooling circuit has been flushed and the clogged pipe is changed it still overheat (red zone of the CEV gauge)... the fan turns on.. and it's still winter ... what about summer???
but the bike runs great, it's not so angry as I thought... fast but friendly.
rear brake doesn't exist, but it doesn't matter to me as I use it only in panic stops |
Firstly, have you bled the air out of the cooling system properly?
After the fan turns on does the temperature fall?
How long, on tickover, does it take to get in the red zone? _________________ SB6 mk1 (project mega light, big bore)
Sb6 mk2 ( Big Bore)
Sb6 mk2 ( Restored)
Sb6R fighter
Sb6 or Sb7 WANTED |
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Mako
Joined: 17 Dec 2011 Posts: 141 Location: Reggio Emilia, Italy
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Posted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 8:17 pm Post subject: |
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oily wrote: |
Mako wrote: |
bike remounted and tried for an hour: even if the cooling circuit has been flushed and the clogged pipe is changed it still overheat (red zone of the CEV gauge)... the fan turns on.. and it's still winter ... what about summer???
but the bike runs great, it's not so angry as I thought... fast but friendly.
rear brake doesn't exist, but it doesn't matter to me as I use it only in panic stops |
Firstly, have you bled the air out of the cooling system properly?
After the fan turns on does the temperature fall?
How long, on tickover, does it take to get in the red zone? |
I've bled from the screw over the head circuit while filling throw the radiator cap... when the cooling liquid started to flow from the hole I reputted the screw... is it right?
I've filled the cooling reservoir but when I stopped after the ride I saw the liquid on the ground and on the left hand fairing...
While riding the temperature was still rising... I arrived at home with the indicator right in the red zone and the fan on... I turned off the engine and after few minutes the temperature was under the red zone.
How long after starting? something between half an hour and an hour.
The frame was very hot (but not like the RC30... that is a Barbeque experience)...
I still hope it's a faulty CEV instrument _________________ Honda CB450K1 - CB750K2 - CB500K1 - RC30 - Ducati 750SS - Bimota SB6 |
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