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Bimota SB6 from Italy
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Mako



Joined: 17 Dec 2011
Posts: 141
Location: Reggio Emilia, Italy

PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 12:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

oily wrote:
Yes it does sound crazy, and guess what ?

It is crazy.........
To take the sproket cover off you need to drop the engine completly or at least swing it forward on the front engine mountings Wink
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news Crying or Very sad

The simplist way out of this problem is................................sell it to me Laughing


Laughing Laughing no way

thanks for the informations... I think I will try to wash the pump while installed. Do you think I can use some cleaner-degreaser like "Fulcron" or it could damage something?
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oily



Joined: 05 Apr 2008
Posts: 4788
Location: worcestershire

PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 12:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You do need to be carful what chemicals you use in the cooling system so as not to contaminate it or corrode the alloy parts Wink
I would suggest a mild solution of caustic soda and then flush it out with copious amounts of fresh water Wink
I suppose you can use most cleaners as long as they are properly flushed out on compleation Wink
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oily



Joined: 05 Apr 2008
Posts: 4788
Location: worcestershire

PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2012 11:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just been reading a coolant manufacturers web site and they recommend flushing your coolant system with nothing stronger than a 50/50 solution of distilled water and white vinegar Shocked

Can't see that shifting any scaling or corrosion Wink
On the "big bore" engine, which was fairly full of oil and crap from a knackered head-gasket, i used a propriety rad flush which seemed to do the job. Followed by copious amounts of fresh water to clean out the rad flush and debris and then filled the system with a 50/50 solution of distilled water and a quality anti freeze/corrosion inhibitor Wink

No problems to date Wink
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Mako



Joined: 17 Dec 2011
Posts: 141
Location: Reggio Emilia, Italy

PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2012 8:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

oily wrote:
Just been reading a coolant manufacturers web site and they recommend flushing your coolant system with nothing stronger than a 50/50 solution of distilled water and white vinegar Shocked

Can't see that shifting any scaling or corrosion Wink
On the "big bore" engine, which was fairly full of oil and crap from a knackered head-gasket, i used a propriety rad flush which seemed to do the job. Followed by copious amounts of fresh water to clean out the rad flush and debris and then filled the system with a 50/50 solution of distilled water and a quality anti freeze/corrosion inhibitor Wink

No problems to date Wink


many thanks, I will use some winegar. Wink

when you reinstall the cooling system with old hoses do you use some sealant or you simply trust in clamps to avoid leaks?
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oily



Joined: 05 Apr 2008
Posts: 4788
Location: worcestershire

PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2012 8:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For used hoses.....
I always use a hint of suzukibond Wink
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Mako



Joined: 17 Dec 2011
Posts: 141
Location: Reggio Emilia, Italy

PostPosted: Wed Jan 18, 2012 2:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

oily wrote:
For used hoses.....
I always use a hint of suzukibond Wink


ok, I will use Hondabond (it's a matter of religion) Very Happy
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oily



Joined: 05 Apr 2008
Posts: 4788
Location: worcestershire

PostPosted: Wed Jan 18, 2012 2:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wouldn't use hondabond on a suzuki......
the rejection rate is quite high Laughing
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Mako



Joined: 17 Dec 2011
Posts: 141
Location: Reggio Emilia, Italy

PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 10:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi all again Very Happy

I remounted the front end, but unfortunatly I didn't make any photos of the steering damper clamp position on the right fork.

I mounted it under the bottom triple tree, but I doubt it's the right position. I mean it could be a dangerous stopper for the fork work during hard braking. Anyone has a photo or can tell if it goes between the right handlebar and the bottom triple tree (leaving the fork free to work for its whole stroke)?

BTW, the rubber steering stopper (the ring that hits the frame) where should be placed? to hit the bottom half of the frame or the upper half?... that should change the steering ability.

thank you as usual Wink
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Mako



Joined: 17 Dec 2011
Posts: 141
Location: Reggio Emilia, Italy

PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 10:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mako wrote:
Hi all again Very Happy

I remounted the front end, but unfortunatly I didn't make any photos of the steering damper clamp position on the right fork.

I mounted it under the bottom triple tree, but I doubt it's the right position. I mean it could be a dangerous stopper for the fork work during hard braking. Anyone has a photo or can tell if it goes between the right handlebar and the bottom triple tree (leaving the fork free to work for its whole stroke)?

BTW, the rubber steering stopper (the ring that hits the frame) where should be placed? to hit the bottom half of the frame or the upper half?... that should change the steering ability.

thank you as usual Wink


looking on the forum (always a mine of informations) i found the first photo on the topic "winter manteinance). It's quite clear that the steering damper clamp goes over the lower triple tree... very close, but over.
and the rubber stopper has to hit the lower half of the frame...
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Pompey



Joined: 31 Jul 2008
Posts: 2311
Location: Marlborough

PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 11:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well done Mako. Surprising what is lurking around the archives of this forum. It is important for everyone to consider changing a thread to cover a new subject should it arise to make searching for the gems easier. Good to hear its coming on!
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Evilchicken0



Joined: 12 May 2010
Posts: 2996
Location: London

PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 5:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

True but if you don't search it gives a good excuse to post more (or the same) pics





so, just above the lower clamp
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Ekku



Joined: 22 Feb 2012
Posts: 24
Location: Finland

PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 5:31 pm    Post subject: Streetfighter? Reply with quote

When looking the last picture, it is easy to find out, why nobody makes streetfigter from these after the bodywork trashing crash...

It looks even more beautiful on the other side Smile
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Mako



Joined: 17 Dec 2011
Posts: 141
Location: Reggio Emilia, Italy

PostPosted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 7:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bike remounted and tried for an hour: even if the cooling circuit has been flushed and the clogged pipe is changed it still overheat (red zone of the CEV gauge)... the fan turns on.. and it's still winter ... what about summer??? Confused

but the bike runs great, it's not so angry as I thought... fast but friendly.

rear brake doesn't exist, but it doesn't matter to me as I use it only in panic stops
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oily



Joined: 05 Apr 2008
Posts: 4788
Location: worcestershire

PostPosted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 7:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mako wrote:
bike remounted and tried for an hour: even if the cooling circuit has been flushed and the clogged pipe is changed it still overheat (red zone of the CEV gauge)... the fan turns on.. and it's still winter ... what about summer??? Confused

but the bike runs great, it's not so angry as I thought... fast but friendly.

rear brake doesn't exist, but it doesn't matter to me as I use it only in panic stops


Firstly, have you bled the air out of the cooling system properly?

After the fan turns on does the temperature fall?

How long, on tickover, does it take to get in the red zone?
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Mako



Joined: 17 Dec 2011
Posts: 141
Location: Reggio Emilia, Italy

PostPosted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 8:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

oily wrote:
Mako wrote:
bike remounted and tried for an hour: even if the cooling circuit has been flushed and the clogged pipe is changed it still overheat (red zone of the CEV gauge)... the fan turns on.. and it's still winter ... what about summer??? Confused

but the bike runs great, it's not so angry as I thought... fast but friendly.

rear brake doesn't exist, but it doesn't matter to me as I use it only in panic stops


Firstly, have you bled the air out of the cooling system properly?

After the fan turns on does the temperature fall?

How long, on tickover, does it take to get in the red zone?


I've bled from the screw over the head circuit while filling throw the radiator cap... when the cooling liquid started to flow from the hole I reputted the screw... is it right?
I've filled the cooling reservoir but when I stopped after the ride I saw the liquid on the ground and on the left hand fairing...
While riding the temperature was still rising... I arrived at home with the indicator right in the red zone and the fan on... I turned off the engine and after few minutes the temperature was under the red zone.

How long after starting? something between half an hour and an hour.

The frame was very hot (but not like the RC30... that is a Barbeque experience)...

I still hope it's a faulty CEV instrument
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