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SB6 1994. few questions
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Ekku



Joined: 22 Feb 2012
Posts: 24
Location: Finland

PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 5:17 pm    Post subject: SB6 1994. few questions Reply with quote

Hello everybody,

I am new to this forum, but I have had my Sb6 for 10 years now. I have not done much riding it, because frankly it is not one of the easiest bike to ride on the daily basis.

It is not really possible to find any information about these bikes here in Finland, because when I bought mine, there were 2 registered in this country. Now there seems to be about 2 or 3 more and I have even seen the other one one the track day last summer.

I have had The engine off from the frame one time to check the valve clearances when I bought the bike and everything seemed to be fine, so It will propably take many more years when I do it again. It seems that the most of the maintanance starts with the taking the engine off the frame... Smile

The questions :

My bike was fitted with the fuel pump when I bought it. Has this been a common practice to fit the fuel pump to these bikes?

I have been wondering the reason for such fitment, because the bike seems to work fine without it. I had to remove the pump few years ago when it short circuited and the engine lost it sparks at the same time. I sure did use some time to find out, why the engine does not start after a long period of left in the garage. I was lucky to find the cause before taking the whole machine to the pieces.

Now I have replaced the original fuel tap wit the pupose made adapter and fitted a plastic Briggs&Stratton fuel tap on the fuel line. Seems to work fine.

The original crap steering damper leaked out its fluids 2 years ago. I tried to find a suitable replacement of the quality brands, but it seems that the stroke of the original one is not among the most common specifications, so my friend refurbished the original one by replacing the seals ant the oil.

However, I can not remember where the damper is attached in the frame?

If anyone can help me preferrably with the picture, I would be very gratefull. I coud try the find the right location by try and error method, but as You all sb6 owners know, the taking out and putting back the bodywork of the sb6 is not the most fun thing to do if there is easier method available.

Other works I need to perform is to replace the rear sprocket carrier damping rubbers and the bearings. The damping rubbers might be bit hard to find, but I suppose the bearings are using the standard dimensions. I noticed the problem in the last autumn when i replaced the tires. I had to use force to get the rear axle out and the examination proved that the axle was not completely straight and therefore it bit hard on the sprocket carrier bush.

It seems that my bike has had a hard life in it's former life. The bodywork is repainted propably due the crash damage. There is carbon frame protectors fitted and some modifications made : the airbox has other intake hole made on the opposite side of the original one and the front sprocket cover has some part of it cut away in the manner that leaves the sprocket partly visible. Maybe it is thought to make the changing possibly without taking the engine from the frame?

The exhaus system is marked as "rece use only" and it do sound like it too...

Sorry for the long post, but I have to start with something.
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Evilchicken0



Joined: 12 May 2010
Posts: 2996
Location: London

PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 7:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi there
Welcome to the forum Very Happy Nice bikes the SB6 with the "right" number of cylinders Laughing

Ok - the original bike doesn't have a fuel pump, it shouldn't need one as long as the twin feed tap is used. My bike though can get a bit fuel starved if you run it at big RPM for a long time.

The steering damper locates on the inside of the middle fairing mount on the right, but you don't really need to have it fitted, I ridden mine on a track day and it was fine - have the suspension set up for your weight.

The rubbers (cush drive) is probably available from the wheel manufacturer - you might have Dymag "H" section, Marchasini hollow spoke, or Antera wheels all are 3 spoke but we'll need a photo of the bike to identify it. The wheel bearings will have a code on them so you can order some from a bearing supplier. Get the spindle copied by an engineering company before you renew them.

The cut airbox behind the shock (?) was done to flow more air and is recomended in a dynojet kit.

The race cans make the bike sound good but don't really add anthing to the performance. If they're to loud get them repacked, it's not to difficult and can be done by you if you've got a bit of mechanical sense.

We love pictures Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy
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Pompey



Joined: 31 Jul 2008
Posts: 2311
Location: Marlborough

PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 10:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Welcome to the forum Smile
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Ekku



Joined: 22 Feb 2012
Posts: 24
Location: Finland

PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 10:54 am    Post subject: Thanks Reply with quote

Thank You for the information.

I have ridden the bike without the steering damper and in the most of the time it does not need one allthought the bike can get a bit nervous if you hit the pothole or do the full throttle accelerations on the first or second gear.

I had the internals of the front forks modified by one of my friend who is the bike builder by profession and at the same time I had the rear Öhlins shock serviced.

The bike has had a tendency to run wide on the corner exits. I suppose it would help to raise a rear end of the bike a bit, but there is not any more adjusting range left on the rear shock.

My fuel line is now coming from the single feed, but I have not noticed the problems so far. There is not really change to keep the throttle pinned more than the few seconds at the time in our speed controlled roads.

I might just put the new fuel pump in it, but it seems to be hard to find the small enough and with the modest pressure build up suitable for the carburettor engine.

I also had to replace the needle valves in the last winter. Original Mikuni parts were pretty hard to find from here, but german shop Louis sells the aftermarket parts for the most japanese brands.

The prize was about 15 euros each and they came with the new float chamber gaskets and o-rings.

My wheels are the original Oscam 3-spokes wit the "H" section.

The airbox is cut from the shock side as You assumed.

The cans are too loud for my taste. Repacking them is not as easy as you might think. I had the rear ends off and it seems that to take them apart it is necessary to open them from the other end too.

The rear outlets rivets came loose and started rattling so I replaced them with more permanent solution. I drilled the holes a bit bigger and put threaded, expanding insert in and used small bolts to keep them in their place.

I have to take some pictures when I get the bike from winter storage. I suppose that my driving season starts in the first of May as usual.

If anybody kwos the source of the original Bimota-bolts, please inform me. I do not need the small, yellow "cheese" bolt, but when i removet the rear shock I had to cut out the front bolt of the shock to have it removed.

PS. The right number of cylinders?
I also have 3 Motoguzzi and 2 Bmws, one one cylinder and other 4 cylinder bike. One of my Guzzis in being convertet to something bit different than the original.

You can find some pictures of the current state of the project from here :

http://jlmeccanica.blogspot.com/

look the pictures from the 17dec.

I am currently looking for suitable bodywork for the thing, but I have not yet get "the grand vision". I also have to make the order of Rotrex supercharger which is "necessary" to have some "cheap" horsepower.
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oily



Joined: 05 Apr 2008
Posts: 4788
Location: worcestershire

PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 12:25 pm    Post subject: Re: Thanks Reply with quote

Ekku wrote:
when i removet the rear shock I had to cut out the front bolt of the shock to have it removed.


Have a Titanium bolt made. I think ProBolt stock Ti bolts in this size.

Ekku wrote:
PS. The right number of cylinders?


Absolutely the right number of cylinders, anything less is classed as a lawnmower Laughing
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SB6 mk1 (project mega light, big bore)
Sb6 mk2 ( Big Bore)
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Sb6R fighter
Sb6 or Sb7 WANTED
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brian



Joined: 22 Aug 2011
Posts: 3769
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 12:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Welcome to the forum mate. I haven't seen Oscam wheels before, google to the rescue.

Cheers,
Brian
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'99 DB4 #104, '96 SB6 #1165, '94 DB2 J #652, '99 DB4 #088, '08 VTX1800, '93 ZXR750R M1, '95 ZXR750, '95 ZXR750 Race Bike, '94 CBR400rr NC29 Race Bike, '94 CB250, '49 BSA C10 250, '61 BSA A10 650, '89 ZXR750, '91 Ducati 851
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Ekku



Joined: 22 Feb 2012
Posts: 24
Location: Finland

PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 1:06 pm    Post subject: Re: Thanks Reply with quote

oily wrote:



Absolutely the right number of cylinders, anything less is classed as a lawnmower Laughing


Well, Bimota would be awfull lawnmover, if you really needed to have work done... Very Happy

I think that Bimotas must be one of the most unpractical bikes ever made. Sometimes it is fun to think what the italian so called engineers have done, was everything really desingned or just bolted together?

Some beautifull looking, light CNC-machined parts coupled with wheels heavy as anvils (antera), crap streeing damper, gear and brake pedals with numerous, hard to make, unnecessary parts with unsuitable materials (aluminium bushes on the aluminium footpegs) which needed re-bushing after 10k kilometers etc...

At least they chose right place to source engine and electronics in this model minus the crappy scooter headlights Very Happy

i like it still, but sometimes it is like love/hate relationship.

Maybe I just like the flawed machines and believe me, Bmw is not flawless machine either and Bmw owners don't take critics lightly Laughing
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oily



Joined: 05 Apr 2008
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Location: worcestershire

PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 1:22 pm    Post subject: Re: Thanks Reply with quote

Ekku wrote:
oily wrote:



Absolutely the right number of cylinders, anything less is classed as a lawnmower Laughing


Well, Bimota would be awfull lawnmover, if you really needed to have work done... Very Happy


At least they chose right place to source engine and electronics in this model




HALLELUJAH

yet another sensible Bimota owner
Laughing
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SB6 mk1 (project mega light, big bore)
Sb6 mk2 ( Big Bore)
Sb6 mk2 ( Restored)
Sb6R fighter
Sb6 or Sb7 WANTED
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Pompey



Joined: 31 Jul 2008
Posts: 2311
Location: Marlborough

PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 7:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

have you tried dropping the forks through the yoke? Although that would help you turn in quick but not run wide on exit... does it happen under acceleration out of the corner? You may need a stiffer spring if you are getting too much dip under gas out the corner on the rear shock.
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Evilchicken0



Joined: 12 May 2010
Posts: 2996
Location: London

PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 11:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe if you sort out the spindle, wheel bearings and cush drive rubbers it won't run so wide.
Sort this out before you decide it's anything else.

The exhaust isn't difficult to repack, you need some stainless steel wire wool, exhaust wadding, stainless steel zipties and sealed rivets.

Inside they're like this





You need to wear protective gloves because the wire will cut you if you don't, wrap the wire onto the baffles



Then the wrap



and use the zipties to keep it all there


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Ekku



Joined: 22 Feb 2012
Posts: 24
Location: Finland

PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 9:44 am    Post subject: some work to be done Reply with quote

I will surely fix the rear end problems before the next drive. I just can't figute out, what it takes to twist the rear spindle?

Heavy crash?

The "running wide"-problems presents itself when accelerating out of the corner.

The problem might be cured after I had the rear schock rebuilded. It had lost most of the gas inside and did not react the settings as it should. I did only small ride before putting the bike to the winter storage after putting the rebuilden schock in the bike.

I have to repack the silencers to see if the noise level gets more reasonable.


I thought that the early models are fitted the Oscam wheels as standard equipment. The frame number of my bike is 11, so it is one of the first ones of the model.
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oily



Joined: 05 Apr 2008
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Location: worcestershire

PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 9:50 am    Post subject: Re: some work to be done Reply with quote

Ekku wrote:

I thought that the early models are fitted the Oscam wheels as standard equipment. The frame number of my bike is 11, so it is one of the first ones of the model.


They were Wink
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SB6 mk1 (project mega light, big bore)
Sb6 mk2 ( Big Bore)
Sb6 mk2 ( Restored)
Sb6R fighter
Sb6 or Sb7 WANTED
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Pompey



Joined: 31 Jul 2008
Posts: 2311
Location: Marlborough

PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 10:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

you said you cut off the front rear shock bolt? This, infact, is also the ride height adjuster. Unscrew the bolt to raise the back end and tighten the locking nut before placing the rear shock into its mount. There is a lot of adjustment. The ride height is probably not your problem with that fault. Preload is probably the issue, check for static sag and then adjust damping. Dont over do damping to make up for the wrong spring for your weight... Assuming you are not on the large side? Wink
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Pompey



Joined: 31 Jul 2008
Posts: 2311
Location: Marlborough

PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 10:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hey Evil chuck, great photos on the silencer packing, very useful as always.
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Ekku



Joined: 22 Feb 2012
Posts: 24
Location: Finland

PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 10:58 am    Post subject: testing Reply with quote

Pompey wrote:
you said you cut off the front rear shock bolt? This, infact, is also the ride height adjuster. Unscrew the bolt to raise the back end and tighten the locking nut before placing the rear shock into its mount. There is a lot of adjustment. The ride height is probably not your problem with that fault. Preload is probably the issue, check for static sag and then adjust damping. Dont over do damping to make up for the wrong spring for your weight... Assuming you are not on the large side? Wink


I have noticed the ride height adjuster and the spring rate is propably wrong for the rider of my weight. I am on the heavier side, not the typical italian test pilot size.
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