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Mako
Joined: 17 Dec 2011
Posts: 141
Location: Reggio Emilia, Italy
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 Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 11:02 am Post subject: SB6 - dropping the engine |
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I think I'm going to follow the advices and drop the engine for a top end overhaul and a cooler system check.
I have the gsx r 1100 manual but I'd like to have an idea of what it means on the Bim.
Do someone on the forum have a pdf workshop manual (even for sale, of course) of the SB6?
Or can sameone tell me the main procedure?
i guess I'd have to start by removing fairings, fuel tank, air box, carburators, coolant radiator, disconnect transmission chain, clutch liquid hose, remove exaust system... but I don't know the engine removing steps (order of unscrewing bolts and nuts, engine positions....).
and when I'll have to reinstall the engine I would like to know the Tighteening torques.
many thanks as usual 
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Evilchicken0
Joined: 12 May 2010
Posts: 2996
Location: London
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| Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 11:42 am Post subject: |
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http://www.bimotaforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=778
I think I've got the manual on pdf the only different bit is the top mount bolts.
This is important mark the electrical connections - I used coloured zip ties so they're permanant
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Mako
Joined: 17 Dec 2011
Posts: 141
Location: Reggio Emilia, Italy
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| Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 12:31 pm Post subject: |
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| Evilchicken0 wrote: |
http://www.bimotaforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=778
I think I've got the manual on pdf the only different bit is the top mount bolts.
This is important mark the electrical connections - I used coloured zip ties so they're permanant |
I'haven't found on this intresting topic the way to lower the engine (I mean if there is some helpful trick....)
But i found an helpful suggestion for Pipercross double air filters. 
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oily
Joined: 05 Apr 2008
Posts: 4788
Location: worcestershire
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| Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 1:11 pm Post subject: |
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I use a trolley jack, friends, blocks of wood, pixies from the bottom of the garden..........
whatever it takes, ingenuity my friend, ingenuity 
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Evilchicken0
Joined: 12 May 2010
Posts: 2996
Location: London
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| Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 2:04 pm Post subject: |
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You need to take the back wheel out because you can't take the chain off the front sprocket - wrap the top run of the chain in a cloth so it doesn't scratch the top of the swingarm.
Support the engine with a jack (I didn't have a trolley jack so I used an Abba front jack) and drop it with the jack.
Alternatively make a dolley / engine stand lift the rear wheel and put it under the engine remove the rear wheel, remove the front wheel, lift the frame off the engine. This is a useful method because it's a lot easier to put the frame over the engine than putting the engine in the frame (it's heavy).
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oily
Joined: 05 Apr 2008
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Location: worcestershire
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| Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 2:33 pm Post subject: |
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The dozens of times I've removed the engine, I've never found the need to remove the rear wheel
Just slacken the chain adjusters right off, roll the chain off the rear sprocket then you've got plenty of slack to start lowering the engine when magically, the front sprocket comes into view, after only a couple of centimetres, remove the chain and continue lowering.
simples
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Mako
Joined: 17 Dec 2011
Posts: 141
Location: Reggio Emilia, Italy
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| Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 5:15 pm Post subject: |
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all right!
I was wondering about some trick as I just reinstalled the engine on the frame for my CB750 four (alone)...
and what about the refitting torques? when not specified I follow this :
6mm screws-bolts : 1.5 - 1.8 kgm
8mm : 2.4 - 2.7 kgm
10 mm: 3.0 - 3.5 kg
12 mm: 3.5 - 5.0 kgm depends on function
14 mm : heavily but not beastly
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oily
Joined: 05 Apr 2008
Posts: 4788
Location: worcestershire
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| Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 5:21 pm Post subject: |
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| Mako wrote: |
all right!
I was wondering about some trick as I just reinstalled the engine on the frame for my CB750 four (alone)...
and what about the refitting torques? when not specified I follow this :
6mm screws-bolts : 1.5 - 1.8 kgm
8mm : 2.4 - 2.7 kgm
10 mm: 3.0 - 3.5 kg
12 mm: 3.5 - 5.0 kgm depends on function
14 mm : heavily but not beastly |
And those are the torque settings you'll need to follow as Bimota never gave any torque settings in the SB6 manual
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Sb6 mk2 ( Big Bore)
Sb6 mk2 ( Restored)
Sb6R fighter
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Pompey
Joined: 31 Jul 2008
Posts: 2311
Location: Marlborough
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| Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 5:35 pm Post subject: |
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or keep going til you feel the thread about to rip and go back half a turn... thats the navy method.
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Pomps
Bimota's Db2, Db5 ,Ducati's 851' 92, 888' 93, Honda blade' 93, Triumph speed triple' 07, kawasaki zxr 750 k1 |
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oily
Joined: 05 Apr 2008
Posts: 4788
Location: worcestershire
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| Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 5:45 pm Post subject: |
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| Pompey wrote: |
| or keep going til you feel the thread about to rip and go back half a turn... thats the navy method. |
No idea which Navy your talking about but if it's about to rip it's too late to back off, the damage is done.
No substitute for a torque wrench and if your in doubt, use thread lock too.
Belt and bracers
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Sb6 mk2 ( Big Bore)
Sb6 mk2 ( Restored)
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Pompey
Joined: 31 Jul 2008
Posts: 2311
Location: Marlborough
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| Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 6:14 pm Post subject: |
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Thats in the Royal Navy book of battle field blue water mechanics. issue 1. amendment 34.6/ 000689. under the heading. "f6"*k it, that'll do jack, now leg it."
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Pomps
Bimota's Db2, Db5 ,Ducati's 851' 92, 888' 93, Honda blade' 93, Triumph speed triple' 07, kawasaki zxr 750 k1 |
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oily
Joined: 05 Apr 2008
Posts: 4788
Location: worcestershire
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| Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 6:36 pm Post subject: |
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Those were the days
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Sb6 mk2 ( Big Bore)
Sb6 mk2 ( Restored)
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MARTIN
Joined: 09 Dec 2009
Posts: 226
Location: ABERDEEN SCOTLAND
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| Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 8:01 pm Post subject: |
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Which every way you do it, drop engine or lift frame off(method I found easier if you are on your own)
Jack up engine/frame on a trolley of some kind with lots of supports around base of motor, as you will see the Suzuki sump is in a V shape and there is a pressure sensor there also, so watch where you place supports. Engine tends to be front heavy so will tend to go that way.
When jacked up a little,rock whole unit lightly to check that engine is supported on what ever you use.
As took my one apart I removed wheels /forks/shock and swing arm. Frame is very light approx 10-15 kilos and is easy to lift off supported engine. It also,if this is your first dismantle, allows you to check if you have disconnected/removed anything connecting engine to frame or wiring
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Marty
State of the art and leading edge of cocking things up
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Mako
Joined: 17 Dec 2011
Posts: 141
Location: Reggio Emilia, Italy
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| Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 8:49 pm Post subject: |
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many thanks to all...
Think I'll do this on the next Weekend. Then I'll start checking the thermostat and look for clogging crap that stops cooler.
my shop list is (until now)
Head gasket from suzuki
exaust gaskets from suzuki
valve shims? we'll see
new sprokets - chain
new coolant pipes (? where?)
pipercross filters
will post photos of the work in process... I'll win
hope so!!
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oily
Joined: 05 Apr 2008
Posts: 4788
Location: worcestershire
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