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Mike Jennings
Joined: 22 Mar 2008 Posts: 286 Location: England
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Posted: Wed Jan 16, 2013 4:21 pm Post subject: Removing DB1 Bearings |
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Hello,
I'm just trying to remove the front wheel bearings on the deeber, and Bimota have cunningly designed the inner spacer with almost the same I/D as the bearing inner race so I can't use a drift. I've tried an expanding puller, which didn't work, so the alternatives at the moment seem to be either heating the wheel so much the bearings fall out, or welding lumps on the inner race to allow purchase for a drift. Any other ideas gratefully received!
Cheers, Mike J. |
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brian
Joined: 22 Aug 2011 Posts: 3772 Location: Australia
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Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 10:18 am Post subject: |
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Is it possible to knock the spacer out which will also push the bearing out?
Or, if the bearing is slightly smaller than the I.D of the spacer, find something that will just fot in the spacer but won't go through the bearing. The bearing shouldn't be too tight. May have to have a drift turned up the right size.
Good luck _________________ '99 DB4 #104, '96 SB6 #1165, '94 DB2 J #652, '99 DB4 #088, '08 VTX1800, '93 ZXR750R M1, '95 ZXR750, '95 ZXR750 Race Bike, '94 CBR400rr NC29 Race Bike, '94 CB250, '49 BSA C10 250, '61 BSA A10 650, '89 ZXR750, '91 Ducati 851 |
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Mike Jennings
Joined: 22 Mar 2008 Posts: 286 Location: England
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Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 11:29 am Post subject: |
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Hello Brian,
thanks for the tips. Unfortunately, the inner race and spacer seem to be exactly the same size, with the spacer held pretty accurately in the hub, so it doesn't move sideways enough to get a drift on the bearing inner race. If a try to turn up a drift, it won't fit through the bearing on the other side, and it's not possible to tap the spacer, because it's covered by the other bearing!
However, I've just discovered a kit made by Sealey with a set of split expanding plugs which fit into the bearing and are expanded by a rod with a wedge shaped end which is driven in from the other side of the wheel. I haven't got them yet so will see if they work and report how it goes.
Cheers, MikeJ
'Remember, if you could eat a horse-go to Tescos ' |
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Mike Jennings
Joined: 22 Mar 2008 Posts: 286 Location: England
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Posted: Wed Jan 23, 2013 11:05 am Post subject: Removing DB1 Bearings |
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Hello again,
I received the Sealey kit, Model no;MS062 'Motorcyle Wheel bearing Removal Kit' a couple of days ago. It has 10,12,15,17,19,20 and 25mm collets and a pair of wedge-ended rods of different sizes to fit the collets, and costs about £55 on e-bay. The idea is to fit a collet into the opening of the wheel bearing and place the wheel on the floor, resting on the collet. The rod is then inserted through from the other side of the wheel hub so that the wedge end engages the split in the collet. By tapping the end of the rod, the wedge forces itself into the split end of the collet, causing it to expand and grip the inner race of the bearing. The wheel is brought upright and the rod is tapped again to drive the rod, collet and bearing out together. Or so it says, but as Confucius said, having read the poem;
The flowers of the Cherry tree
How they wave about!
It's not that I do not think of you
but your home is so far away
'He did not really think of her. If he did, there is no such thing as being far away.'
Being a cynic, there's a big difference between what's said and what's done, so I wasn't too sure about how this system was going to work. One of the advantages of early retirement is that the missus goes out to work, leaving me alone in the house, so, as it was snowy outside, it seemed more reasonable to try using the kitchen floor to support the collet and wheel as I tried to drive the bearing out. Fat chance, the collet and rod came out, leaving the bearing unmoved. It was probably the elasticity of the floorboard which was damping the impacts as I drove the rod into place and preventing the collet from getting a good grip. Plan B involved going out onto the (brick) patio and placing a carpet tile under the wheel and collet as the rod was tapped.
Still no joy, the bearing stayed in place, so remembering the old engineer's motto;
If at first it doesn't go
Move it gently to and fro
If that doesn't bring you luck
Get a hammer and
Give it F----
after pounding the bejeezus out of it, the rod had wedged firmly in place and the bearing came out without further trouble 'Oh Frabjous day, Callooh, Callay, He Chortled in his Joy'
Cheers, Mike J |
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oily
Joined: 05 Apr 2008 Posts: 4788 Location: worcestershire
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Posted: Wed Jan 23, 2013 11:18 am Post subject: |
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Well done Mike...
So...are the kits worth the money or should I continue with my ancient, tried and tested method _________________ SB6 mk1 (project mega light, big bore)
Sb6 mk2 ( Big Bore)
Sb6 mk2 ( Restored)
Sb6R fighter
Sb6 or Sb7 WANTED |
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Mike Jennings
Joined: 22 Mar 2008 Posts: 286 Location: England
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Posted: Wed Jan 23, 2013 2:08 pm Post subject: Removing DB1 Bearings |
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Hello Oily,
to give a politician's answer-it depends on the circumstances pertaining at the time!
The kit costs about £55 and fits a lot of different bearing sizes, and it seems to work pretty well. The intial problems probably could have been overcome by heating the hub up a bit, but I was a little wary of using heat on a composite wheel which uses a lot of glue in its construction. I'm certainly glad I bought mine, as at least I know I have it available. On the other hand, most wheel bearings are not as well hidden as the DB1's.
A major problem would be that the bearings might indent due to being driven out, but I tend to replace the bearings anyway and most methods of removal would involve using impacts. A cheaper alternative would be to weld lumps onto the inner race to allow a drift to purchase, so it partially depends on if you have a welder availabe,
Cheers, MikeJ |
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roli57
Joined: 10 Sep 2011 Posts: 15 Location: Germany
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Mike Jennings
Joined: 22 Mar 2008 Posts: 286 Location: England
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Posted: Wed Jan 23, 2013 8:52 pm Post subject: |
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Hello Rolf,
thanks for the email. The problem was that the bearing spacer was close up against the bearing and there was no way of getting an extractor behind the inner race to pull it out. The Sealey kit engages the inner diameter of the inner race and doesn't have to engage behind it at all.
Cheers, MikeJ |
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