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SpikeC
Joined: 20 Aug 2013 Posts: 450 Location: Portland, Oregon
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Posted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 10:33 am Post subject: Raising the bar(s) on a DB5R |
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As much as I love the configuration of my bike, the lack of discs in my neck vertibra conspire to limit the time I can spend in the saddle, so I would like to raise the bars an inch or two. I first tried a set of Speedy Moto tall boys butt they move the bars back as well as up, resulting in the cable for the starter device aiming at the fork tube, as well as the clutch line being a bit short. I am thinking that something like the Woodcraft risers will be a better option, butt that starter gizmo is still going to be an issue. I was thinking that the lines from a DB6 might be an option here.
Has anyone had success with this sort of thing? Am I missing something easy and obvious?
Thanks for any help! _________________ Spike C.
Portland, Oregon, USA
2008 Bimota DB5R
1965 Triumph T100SC |
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2bims
Joined: 03 Apr 2010 Posts: 7292
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Posted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 9:29 pm Post subject: |
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Hi Spike, not familiar with the risers youre on about, but re clutch line, if you have a "handy" Ducati dealer near you then pop down and look at their Monster Range with a handy piece of string, these all have Handlebars rather than clip-ons...and all same engines, clutch slave on left side etc....this will help you then to order a suitable sized one for the DB5 by referencing the make and model of an up to date Ducati...and thus make it easier for getting a "standard" from any supplier as they ask "what bike for"
I'll measure my Db6 clutch line and can find a Ducati lying around somewhere and measure that also if you like and give you the length to try out on the DB5R..
Re switchgear on right....unless different from mine, the throttle will be a Domino separate 1/4 turn throttle...so if running short on cable length for the starter/kill switch...then simply move it further in, or flip it to opposite side of the front brake assembly....only need it for starting and switching off...has nothing you need to reach whilst riding (unless you're a "perpetual" staller).... |
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CNC
Joined: 19 Jul 2013 Posts: 257 Location: Slovenia
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Posted: Thu Sep 26, 2013 5:58 am Post subject: |
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Just a thought: be careful with rising the bars, because clutch and brake levers have very limited space if you turn... Might hit the faring... _________________ Bimota DB7, Bimota DB5 Mille, Ducati 916, Ducati M900, Benelli Tornado Tre |
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SpikeC
Joined: 20 Aug 2013 Posts: 450 Location: Portland, Oregon
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Posted: Thu Sep 26, 2013 7:38 am Post subject: |
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Thanks guys, I am not too concerned with the clutch hose, I think that I can get enough slack for the amount that I am moving the bars. The one that I am most concerned about is the "choke" cable, that goes from the clutch side to the throttle bodies. It attaches to the outside of the clutch master and has very little slack.
The wires all seem to have plenty of extra length tucked away. _________________ Spike C.
Portland, Oregon, USA
2008 Bimota DB5R
1965 Triumph T100SC |
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SpikeC
Joined: 20 Aug 2013 Posts: 450 Location: Portland, Oregon
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Posted: Fri Oct 25, 2013 2:20 am Post subject: |
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I have my ergonomic situation pretty much under control now. I raised the bars about 2 inches with a set of Woodcraft clipons, and all that was needed was to clip a few zip ties to loosen some wires. the hydraulic lines were all long enough and the cables for the throttle and fast idle were just long enough. I had to change the brake master cylinder reservoir, to a Rizoma small can. The change makes for a much more friendly riding position for someone with bad discs in the neck bones!
It is almost as if they designed the bike with this modification in mind! _________________ Spike C.
Portland, Oregon, USA
2008 Bimota DB5R
1965 Triumph T100SC |
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2bims
Joined: 03 Apr 2010 Posts: 7292
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Posted: Fri Oct 25, 2013 10:17 pm Post subject: |
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Well if it helps you ride it then grand stuff...as more than half the beauty is in riding it and sharing with other folk, and if my back goes in ten years its nice to know I can mod it without too much issue....Need piccies of what you've done though, love piccies.... |
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SpikeC
Joined: 20 Aug 2013 Posts: 450 Location: Portland, Oregon
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Posted: Fri Oct 25, 2013 11:57 pm Post subject: |
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[/img]
The brake fluid reservoir was interfering with the fairing, so I went with a smaller one, and changed the clutch side to keep it balanced! _________________ Spike C.
Portland, Oregon, USA
2008 Bimota DB5R
1965 Triumph T100SC |
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2bims
Joined: 03 Apr 2010 Posts: 7292
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Posted: Sat Oct 26, 2013 7:23 pm Post subject: |
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Looks nice, and with the little Rizoma pots also....nice...not an issue with a smaller Brake pot, large ones to take account of brake wear and pads moving, so just keep a check on the level and you'll be fine, have a small pot on my Db6R on brake side and never had to top it up in last 3500 miles so should be fine, lightness of bike and engine braking means only a light touch needed and thus not much brake wear/movement... |
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SpikeC
Joined: 20 Aug 2013 Posts: 450 Location: Portland, Oregon
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Posted: Sat Oct 26, 2013 8:18 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks! Also, with the clear lines any shortfall of fluid is instantly obvious.
In all of my years of riding, I have never had to add fluid to a brake reservoir, even when pads were worn done to the backing plates(many years ago)! I keep a much closer watch on these things nowadays....... _________________ Spike C.
Portland, Oregon, USA
2008 Bimota DB5R
1965 Triumph T100SC |
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2bims
Joined: 03 Apr 2010 Posts: 7292
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Posted: Sat Oct 26, 2013 9:08 pm Post subject: |
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Yeh thats true, with other bikes and mix and matching swapping rides, its more likely 2 years are up and I change the fluids anyhow well before the level gets low anyhow, and as you say...age is a leveller, making you check everything more often....gone are my days of knackered chain and sprockets, worn tyres, pads down to backing material etc etc....oh those heady days of youth, if it started twas all that was needed..... Still neccesary and grateful of that with Bimotas, but other care now taken also... |
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