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sbbimota
Joined: 24 Oct 2013 Posts: 63 Location: santa barbara
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Posted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 3:43 pm Post subject: Battery not charging |
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Battery is not charging. Before I take drop the engine to get the generator out..has anyone every got it out by removing the air box? looks like it can come out the top. Also...the wiring diagrams show two fuses that are connected to the generator...any idea where the hell they would be? Hoping it is just a fuse...cause I want to ride this weekend and I don't think i can drop engine and put it back before sunday.
thanks
Pete _________________ pete |
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Evilchicken0
Joined: 12 May 2010 Posts: 2996 Location: London
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Posted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 5:57 pm Post subject: |
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There's one loooooooooooong bolt that can't be taken out with out dropping the engine. _________________ Don't read everything you believe |
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bimota_rider
Joined: 06 Jul 2013 Posts: 213 Location: Utah, USA
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Posted: Wed Nov 06, 2013 1:48 am Post subject: |
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I removed my SB6R "generator" without dropping the engine. I also removed and replaced the culprit of my charging issue, the "coupler," without dropping the engine. My old career has afforded me many tricks of the trade and MANY specialty tools that allow me to cheat many "normal" operations.
The bottom bolt is the tough one and can be reached using a 1/4 ratchet, a 12" extension, a hex head driver (the "round head" type works best here, as you will be applying pressure at a bit of an angle), some tape to keep the driver attached to the extension during the withdrawal process, a bright light, and a ton and a half of patience.
BUT BEFORE YOU DO ALL THAT test your alternator in the bike first. It could be a fuse, test both sides of the forward-most fuses in the little fuse block at your right handle bar. If they are okay test the volts coming from your alternator to your battery. If it is internal, ie. the voltage regulator, just buy a used unit, as the regulator will cost the same. Anyway, I digress. I bought two before figuring out the coupler was broken.
My problem was a broken rubber in the "coupler," the little gear that attaches the engine to the alternator "female" gear and the alternator wasn't spinning fast enough to charge my battery. It was a true 'BEAR" to figure it out and get it fixed, but I prevailed.
I am shooting from the hip here and relying on a fading memory (I'm gettin' old, ya know ) If you need real detailed help, I will research my project and help you the best I can.
If you have an SB6 (WITHOUT THE "R") Please disregard my solution, as I think the frames differ slightly in the cross bracing and may prevent success with my techniques. Also keep in mind, my bike is a USA model and may differ in the alternator/generator genre.
. _________________ '98 Bimota SB6R #000016 "Sweet 16"
Built 5/97
2014 Suzuki Hayabusa
2001 BMW R1100S
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sbbimota
Joined: 24 Oct 2013 Posts: 63 Location: santa barbara
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Posted: Wed Nov 06, 2013 4:55 am Post subject: |
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so how did you deal with the LONG bolt that everybody says you can't get out without engine drop? _________________ pete |
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Evilchicken0
Joined: 12 May 2010 Posts: 2996 Location: London
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Posted: Wed Nov 06, 2013 10:31 am Post subject: |
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I think Suzuki upgraded the coupler and / or the bearings. Johny B bad did a swap on his. _________________ Don't read everything you believe |
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Jonny B Bad
Joined: 05 Dec 2009 Posts: 555 Location: NE London
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Posted: Wed Nov 06, 2013 11:54 am Post subject: Battery not charging |
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You've got a good memory Chuckie.
The generator can be got out without dropping the motor, but the coupler is on the end of the starter motor clutch shaft and it is the cover of the starter motor clutch housing that has the extra long bolt on it that won't clear the frame with the motor in situ. Once the cover's off, the starter clutch assembly just lifts out and then you just have to pull the coupler off the end of the shaft, which damages a bearing, which will also need replacing. Parts came to about £100. Then press new bearing and coupler on to shaft and put it all back together again. I think that starting the bike with a weak battery is what wrecks the coupler.
Hope that helps. _________________ What, Jonny's gone! |
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sbbimota
Joined: 24 Oct 2013 Posts: 63 Location: santa barbara
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Posted: Wed Nov 06, 2013 4:26 pm Post subject: |
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so the generator and the starter are interconnected with this rubber mechanism? looks like from the photo I have gotten from the internet is a splined metal shaft coming out the end of the generator that would turn on a mating shaft... _________________ pete |
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sbbimota
Joined: 24 Oct 2013 Posts: 63 Location: santa barbara
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bimota_rider
Joined: 06 Jul 2013 Posts: 213 Location: Utah, USA
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Posted: Wed Nov 06, 2013 6:44 pm Post subject: |
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Yes, that is the coupler. ...and NO the starter is not involved, until you try to remove the cover that houses the coupler. That is where the big issues arise.
Is your generator passing a bench test and you are sure that it is the coupler you need to replace?
Funny too, I had a big text prepared and then I saw your post. LOL. It took me 30 minutes to type it up and now I don' t need it! _________________ '98 Bimota SB6R #000016 "Sweet 16"
Built 5/97
2014 Suzuki Hayabusa
2001 BMW R1100S
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bimota_rider
Joined: 06 Jul 2013 Posts: 213 Location: Utah, USA
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Posted: Thu Nov 07, 2013 3:50 pm Post subject: |
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Great conversation on the phone last night.
Here is to hoping your gen/alt FAILS the bench test.....
Sure is odd saying that to someone!
. _________________ '98 Bimota SB6R #000016 "Sweet 16"
Built 5/97
2014 Suzuki Hayabusa
2001 BMW R1100S
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bob
Joined: 09 Jul 2010 Posts: 31 Location: Aberdeen
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Posted: Fri Nov 08, 2013 7:25 pm Post subject: |
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I had a similar/same problem. Driving down the motorway and the bike just stopped. Turned out to be the cush drive between the engine and the alternator - the part you have already identified. This was on an sb6. I managed to remove the alternator and replace the cush drive without any problem - no engine out/dropping required. Admittedly I had to cut the cush drive out -but I fitted the new one easily and everything is back to normal. I spoke to the suzuki dealer and yes the engine is generally bullet-proof but this part was a fairly regular replacement. Should be a fairly quick job. People do concern removing the rubber flap above the alternator since they think it over heard the unit - but that has not been my experience. Good luck. bob. |
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Bimsb6
Joined: 15 Oct 2011 Posts: 149 Location: Bedfordshire
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Posted: Fri Nov 08, 2013 8:04 pm Post subject: |
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Mine went a few years back , easily diagnosed as with engine running the alternator wasn't spinning ! The rubber cush drive as mentioned previously was the culprit , mine was fixed with a solid replacement shaft from rpm motorsport eliminating the rubber bush , the design reqd a certain alternator , from memory 2 different ones were fitted one with a longer shaft . The engine didn't need to come out to fit it . |
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sbbimota
Joined: 24 Oct 2013 Posts: 63 Location: santa barbara
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Posted: Sat Nov 09, 2013 6:58 pm Post subject: No engine removal for coupling repair |
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Just like Bob said….no engine removal…used a dremel tool with a carbide bit to grind two channels about 60 degrees apart. Then used a punch to push the piece out…see photo….20 minute job….now i have to wait for the replacement part as the local dealer doesn't stock.
Peter
https://www.dropbox.com/s/2iz4hf409p57hd3/2013-11-09%2009.13.27.jpg[img][/img] _________________ pete |
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sapila racing
Joined: 14 Jan 2009 Posts: 67 Location: Athens, Greece
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Posted: Thu Nov 21, 2013 4:26 pm Post subject: |
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I also did it without dropping the engine and replaced the alternator and the coupling.
It was discussed sometime ago here
http://www.bimotaforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=216&highlight=
Also if anyone still has the rubber mat that covers the alternator on the SB6, consider removing it to save you the trouble!
Aris |
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