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Race YB8 for Island Classic
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brian



Joined: 22 Aug 2011
Posts: 3769
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2014 1:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I guess that means Yamaha must have got it pretty right with the standard cams. Wink
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'99 DB4 #104, '96 SB6 #1165, '94 DB2 J #652, '99 DB4 #088, '08 VTX1800, '93 ZXR750R M1, '95 ZXR750, '95 ZXR750 Race Bike, '94 CBR400rr NC29 Race Bike, '94 CB250, '49 BSA C10 250, '61 BSA A10 650, '89 ZXR750, '91 Ducati 851
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brian



Joined: 22 Aug 2011
Posts: 3769
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2014 1:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bud, I was hoping to go to the Island Classic at the end of January but can't get leave for then. So I'm just going to do the WSBK towards the end of February then over to Tasmania for a week of riding their amazing roads and taking in some beaut scenery. I hope you have a good run putting the yb back together and wish you the best for the Classic
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'99 DB4 #104, '96 SB6 #1165, '94 DB2 J #652, '99 DB4 #088, '08 VTX1800, '93 ZXR750R M1, '95 ZXR750, '95 ZXR750 Race Bike, '94 CBR400rr NC29 Race Bike, '94 CB250, '49 BSA C10 250, '61 BSA A10 650, '89 ZXR750, '91 Ducati 851
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Bud977



Joined: 03 Mar 2013
Posts: 525
Location: Sydney

PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2014 8:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You would have enjoyed the Island Classic. Apart from all the historic bikes, Bimota have had a stand there on occasion and I've seen a Tesi and various other Bimotas in the spectator car park.

Still, a lap of Tassie would be great!
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bloodnut



Joined: 10 Oct 2014
Posts: 15
Location: New Zealand

PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2014 6:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree about the cams, I raced a full yec race ktted yzf750sp, in my second season we switched back to standard cams as the dyno showed little gain and I wanted to tame the hit for our tight tracks in NZ. I cant remember the exact numbers but the increase from 9-10 was mad then from 10-12 it was difficult to keep the front wheel on the ground.

I let a mate Tony Rees, whos won many NZ titles, ride it at Manfield for a practice session during a national round and he said it was the most insane bike he had ever ridden. He came off a fully kitted owo1 and had ridden other factory superbikes.

I guess the extra cc of these 1000cc motors will fill in the hole, in the midrange.
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Bud977



Joined: 03 Mar 2013
Posts: 525
Location: Sydney

PostPosted: Sun Dec 14, 2014 11:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The head assembly begins with new Viton seals.



Hello down there. There's been a little work on the inlet and exhaust ports.



The valves are in. The ones marked 4SV are the new exhaust valves which supercede the 3GM ones.



Did you know that the inlet valves are different? I do now. See the 2 dots on the outer ones and the single dot on the centre one? Unfortuneately, my engineer told me they could go anywhere, assuming I knew he meant anywhere as long as it was in the right place!

The centre valve is a different length so I fucked around for a week trying to get the shimming right. I suspected something was wrong from the first check of the shims but being a 4 stroke newby I couldn't tell what it was. I finally knew something was wrong when I had a variance of 1mm in shim thickness and had the thinnest shim in and the inlet was still open. A chat to the right person at the engineers and I had the valves in the right places and the shimming all made sense again. They were all about the standard size within 0.1mm.

When the piston hit the exhaust valves, it broke the buckets and shims. I had to push the buckets out from underneath as they were splayed and jammed. The new buckets were too tight as the bore had been damaged slightly so I honed them out to stop the valve hanging up.

Finally I can get the head back on and start looking at the cams.
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brian



Joined: 22 Aug 2011
Posts: 3769
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 12:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

nice update Bud. Good info on the different length valves. Did you do the valve clearance with the head off? Would have been a pian in the neck if you'd had the head bolted down before realizing about the different valve lengths
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'99 DB4 #104, '96 SB6 #1165, '94 DB2 J #652, '99 DB4 #088, '08 VTX1800, '93 ZXR750R M1, '95 ZXR750, '95 ZXR750 Race Bike, '94 CBR400rr NC29 Race Bike, '94 CB250, '49 BSA C10 250, '61 BSA A10 650, '89 ZXR750, '91 Ducati 851
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Bud977



Joined: 03 Mar 2013
Posts: 525
Location: Sydney

PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 12:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Luckily, it was all done on the bench. I'm doing each item when I have the best access. I've pulled that head apart so many times I'm an expert now. Wink

Everything has to be completed before the motor goes back in as you can't take the cam cover off once it's in.
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brian



Joined: 22 Aug 2011
Posts: 3769
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 2:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bud977 wrote:
Luckily, it was all done on the bench. I'm doing each item when I have the best access. I've pulled that head apart so many times I'm an expert now. Wink

Everything has to be completed before the motor goes back in as you can't take the cam cover off once it's in.


Yeah it's a common theme with most bim I think. Very little can be done without dropping the engine.
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'99 DB4 #104, '96 SB6 #1165, '94 DB2 J #652, '99 DB4 #088, '08 VTX1800, '93 ZXR750R M1, '95 ZXR750, '95 ZXR750 Race Bike, '94 CBR400rr NC29 Race Bike, '94 CB250, '49 BSA C10 250, '61 BSA A10 650, '89 ZXR750, '91 Ducati 851
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Bud977



Joined: 03 Mar 2013
Posts: 525
Location: Sydney

PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 11:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Next I dialled in the cams. Both cams were set at 105° utilising the slotted cam sprockets.

At first it was pretty confusing as I couldn't tell whether I was a tooth out or whether it needed a tweak in the slots. I had to put the standard non-slotted cams to get my bearings and figured it out from there.

On measuring, the cams were 110/102° so a bit of adjustment and I got them both spot on 105°.



This motor is getting close to finished at last.

The old base gasket was 3 shims thicks. The new base gasket and the one from the spare motor were 1 shim thick. Hhhhm? I wonder why.

I was worried the valves would hit the piston so it was off with cams (again!) and check the clearance with some plasticene.



I wanted more than 1.5mm clearance, and ended up with 1.8mm on the inlet and 2.6 on the exhausts. That's perfect. The thinner base gasket will boost compression so that's a good thing.

I used an old head gasket during all the disassembly and reassembly. I made sure it was the same thickness as the new gasket. I only fitted the new gasket on the final assembly.



I fitted the head for the final time, installed new gaskets to the cam cover and some new inlet manifold rubbers to make carb installation easier.

I can't believe it. The motor is finished!



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brian



Joined: 22 Aug 2011
Posts: 3769
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2014 1:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, the engine is looking good Bud. Are you sorting the wiring harness while it's all apart?
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'99 DB4 #104, '96 SB6 #1165, '94 DB2 J #652, '99 DB4 #088, '08 VTX1800, '93 ZXR750R M1, '95 ZXR750, '95 ZXR750 Race Bike, '94 CBR400rr NC29 Race Bike, '94 CB250, '49 BSA C10 250, '61 BSA A10 650, '89 ZXR750, '91 Ducati 851
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Bud977



Joined: 03 Mar 2013
Posts: 525
Location: Sydney

PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2014 9:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I hope to Brian.

Rather than waste my time tidying up the existing wiring harness, I've decided to make up a new harness based on the Ignitech ignition box.

The existing harness is HUGE and would have required a lot of work. Plus you have to by-pass all the lock outs which is more trouble.

The Ignitech system will have only a few wires. Simple = reliable. The Ignitech is also programmable so I'll need to find some good ignition curves to try.

I've got the unit on order but the emails from Ignitech have gone quiet. Maybe they've gone on Xmas holidays?
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trev45



Joined: 15 Jun 2011
Posts: 449
Location: Sydney Australia

PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 10:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have a good battrey for the ignitech
don't drop under 12volts or boom

Trev
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bloodnut



Joined: 10 Oct 2014
Posts: 15
Location: New Zealand

PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 10:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The ignitech stuff is excellent Bud, if you need a hand setting it up let me know, I have a mate who has years of experience on 2 and 4 strokes with ignitech stuff.

Nice work on the motor.
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Bud977



Joined: 03 Mar 2013
Posts: 525
Location: Sydney

PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 8:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll have to get used to keeping the battery fully charged Trev. I'm going to fit a voltmeter to the dash to keep a track of the battery. The digital guage was like $4 delivered! Cheap as.

Bloodnut, would your mate have any suggestions for an ignition curve? I'm going to program in a stock curve to start with cause I don't know any better!

I received an email from Ignitech yesterday so they're back in action and are going to ship my order.
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bloodnut



Joined: 10 Oct 2014
Posts: 15
Location: New Zealand

PostPosted: Tue Dec 23, 2014 12:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Talk to Wayne (Wobbly) on 006475442576 or email

wobbly1@orcon.net.nz

Tell him you have talked to Jared Gillard, he should be able to help.

Keep us posted.
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