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Race YB8 for Island Classic
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Bud977



Joined: 03 Mar 2013
Posts: 525
Location: Sydney

PostPosted: Wed Dec 24, 2014 12:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've heard of Wobbly before. Apparently a great engineer with 2 strokes back in the day. I'll contact him and see if he can help.
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Bud977



Joined: 03 Mar 2013
Posts: 525
Location: Sydney

PostPosted: Thu Dec 25, 2014 9:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I better start putting this thing back together again instead of pulling it apart more.

I started pulling the old wiring loom out as it was a big mess.
Then pulled out the sub-frame to give it a clean up.
Then started cleaning up the frame but there are bits inside the frame around the swingarm that are hard to get to.
Then I pulled out the swingarm to get the old 532 endless chain out.

That's how I ended up with the frame and forks sitting on a pile of bricks. At least I can get to everything now for a good clean up.

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brian



Joined: 22 Aug 2011
Posts: 3769
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Fri Dec 26, 2014 2:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A good strip down and clean up is good for the soul Bud... looking good mate
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'99 DB4 #104, '96 SB6 #1165, '94 DB2 J #652, '99 DB4 #088, '08 VTX1800, '93 ZXR750R M1, '95 ZXR750, '95 ZXR750 Race Bike, '94 CBR400rr NC29 Race Bike, '94 CB250, '49 BSA C10 250, '61 BSA A10 650, '89 ZXR750, '91 Ducati 851
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Bud977



Joined: 03 Mar 2013
Posts: 525
Location: Sydney

PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2015 11:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

With the swingarm out I could clean out all the grunge from around the swingarm area.



The frame rails look nice on the outside but are a bit stained on the inside. I don't want to abrade the anodising off so I got it as clean as I could using WD40, a brush, air gun and rags.



After re-adjusting the shock length to give me a bit more adjustment, I put it back in.



The dogbone links now have some adjustment left in them so I can raise the ride height easily at the track if I have to.



I then re-fitted the subframe and tied up the installation of the Ohlins remote reservoir and remote pre-load adjuster.

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Weed



Joined: 29 Dec 2013
Posts: 250
Location: Perth Australia

PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2015 5:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote



Bud,
I think you may have wound the ride height adjuster out to far on the end of the shock.
The faint mark/line on the adjuster thread is as far as it is supposed to be lengthened past the lock nut. You need to check how much thread is still inside the end of the shock, not counting the thread in the blue lock nut. It should be at least 1 thread diameter
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trev45



Joined: 15 Jun 2011
Posts: 449
Location: Sydney Australia

PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2015 11:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's right Lech out to far
and when are you buy the next Bimota hhahahhahaaaa
it will happen

Trev
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Bud977



Joined: 03 Mar 2013
Posts: 525
Location: Sydney

PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2015 8:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is still about 15mm of thread within the shock body. Being under compression and with the lock-nut assisting to hold it tight, it'll be OK.

If we didn't have our particular registration laws making it nearly impossible to import and road register a later model Bimota, I'd probably get one. There are a lot of good value Bimotas overseas. The ones that get here by personal import are usually overpriced.

Did you have a look at the new ones up for auction recently? I wonder what they went for?
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Bud977



Joined: 03 Mar 2013
Posts: 525
Location: Sydney

PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2015 12:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Next on the list is fitting a new set of wheels. These are "Honda NSR250 Magtek replicas" Wink to comply with the Historic Racing rules. These wheels save 5kg over the last set. Even more important is that this is unsprung and rotating mass so the bike will handle and accelerate better.

Here is the trial fit of the rear wheel. To make it fit and get everything to line up, the sprocket needs to be moved, the disc needs to be moved, the caliper bracket spacers relocated, axle spacers fabricated....



The first task is to make up the axle spacers to centralise the wheel. I make these a captive design where they stay inside the bearing when you pull the axle out so you don't have loose pieces rolling around the garage.



Then I had to take 5mm off the sprocket carrier to line up the sprocket and take a bit off the boss around the wheel bearing carrier so it cleared the swingarm.



So that all works now.



The disc side took more thought. The disc is some 15 further outboard than the standard one. I removed the outer spacer and made up the axle spacer to push the caliper bracket as far out as I could. The disc was still 10mm too far out.



I wanted to keep the Bimota caliper bracket as it is such a beautifully made thing so I had the disc mounting surface machined down 10mm so now the disc is central in the caliper.



The new disc was nearly the same diameter so the standard bracket could be retained.



Nothing is ever as easy as you think. I then had to cut down and rethread the sprocket bolts to clear the swing arm. Finally I re-fitted the tyre and now I've got a set up where everything lines up properly and the wheel comes in and out easily with no loose bits to fall out.



And now onto the front wheel.....
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trev45



Joined: 15 Jun 2011
Posts: 449
Location: Sydney Australia

PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2015 10:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

NSR250 hahhahhahahha they be six spoke my son
Yamaha me thinks with five things going rim wise Wink

Try these Tecnomagnesio Wheels made in Japan

There are lots of five spoke in the day so all good sweet pea

Trev


Last edited by trev45 on Sun Jan 11, 2015 10:15 am; edited 1 time in total
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brian



Joined: 22 Aug 2011
Posts: 3769
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2015 1:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not long to go now Bud... Gunna be ready?
_________________
'99 DB4 #104, '96 SB6 #1165, '94 DB2 J #652, '99 DB4 #088, '08 VTX1800, '93 ZXR750R M1, '95 ZXR750, '95 ZXR750 Race Bike, '94 CBR400rr NC29 Race Bike, '94 CB250, '49 BSA C10 250, '61 BSA A10 650, '89 ZXR750, '91 Ducati 851
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Bud977



Joined: 03 Mar 2013
Posts: 525
Location: Sydney

PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2015 10:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I hope so! It would be a lot of work for nothing if it's not ready.

I've got 3 other bikes to get ready so this is not the only one I have to prepare. I'm riding my TZ250A reverse cylinder as well. This only needs a gearing change and wipe down and it's ready.

My son is riding his Honda RS125 and VFR400. The RS has had the suspension freshened up. I have to fit up the bodywork and that's good as well. The 400 needs some work on the brakes.

Then I've got to clean and load the trailer and pack up the van for 5 days camping. No sweat! I don't know if I'd get any projects finished if it wasn't for the time pressure of upcoming race meetings.
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Bud977



Joined: 03 Mar 2013
Posts: 525
Location: Sydney

PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2015 11:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You got it Trev Wink
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brian



Joined: 22 Aug 2011
Posts: 3769
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2015 12:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sounds like you've got some work ahead of you there mate. Are the wheels magnesium or aluminium? I did see a snippet of the VFR in the background and wondered about it Wink

Best of luck Bud
_________________
'99 DB4 #104, '96 SB6 #1165, '94 DB2 J #652, '99 DB4 #088, '08 VTX1800, '93 ZXR750R M1, '95 ZXR750, '95 ZXR750 Race Bike, '94 CBR400rr NC29 Race Bike, '94 CB250, '49 BSA C10 250, '61 BSA A10 650, '89 ZXR750, '91 Ducati 851
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Bud977



Joined: 03 Mar 2013
Posts: 525
Location: Sydney

PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2015 6:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

They're aluminium wheels Brian. The weight saving of other aftermarket wheels was not worth the expense.

The front wheel is done and in. The first item was to machine up the captive spacers as per usual. I nearly fell for the old trap of assuming both side were the same. The wheel bearings are actually offset to one side of the wheel centreline, possibly to allow for a speedo drive.

Throw the wheel in and s&*t the disc retaining bolts hit the fork legs. These discs and bearings are widely spaced which will be good for rigidity if the fit.



I had to machine down the heads of the torx screws and recess them into the disc carriers to get them to clear the fork legs.



The front axle then didn't fit. To save time, I found an old Yamaha axle which had suitable diameters and thread but it was 15mm too short. So I did a cut and shut with a piece of solid bar. The axle was cut within the area of the fork leg to minimise any shear load on the welds and to keep the axle straight.



I've now got a rolling chassis and I can think about putting the motor back in.

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bloodnut



Joined: 10 Oct 2014
Posts: 15
Location: New Zealand

PostPosted: Sat Jan 17, 2015 11:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Bud,

How much room is left for your calipers, they bolt to the inside of the mounting tab.

Are the yammy wheels lighter than the oscam original wheels?

Have you done anything the the m1r's, I'm about to tackle this issue?

cheers
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