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SethG



Joined: 09 Aug 2014
Posts: 95

PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 5:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

trev45 wrote:
With these bikes when retro fitted with carbs
the fuel cap needs to be be pulled up and on
the bottom is a rubber plug that needs to be
pulled off so the tank can breath
All three of mine needed the same thing done
so fuel can run free and fast

Trev


You know, the third time I opened the tank to a "whoosh" sound I wondered if that venting system was working well enough.

I know the little rubber piece you're talking about, I looked at it suspiciously, but it seemed like it had some other function. Overall I couldn't understand how the thing was venting. I won't see the bike for a couple of days, but I'll make some modifications there.

Is it really that simple to pull the rubber piece and now it'll vent better?


Quote:
or bike is in neutral but the light isn't on


it seemed like the neutral sensor wasn't working very well for sure. Finding neutral was a little difficult, finding neutral + neutral light on was a job for sure.

I'll also check on the oil line air, I wouldn't be surprised at all to find that problem!
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trev45



Joined: 15 Jun 2011
Posts: 449
Location: Sydney Australia

PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 11:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep just pull it off easy and put it in the VDUE box of spares
On other models Not the VDUE there is a drain in the tank where the rubber is there is no hole there on any VDUE

Trev
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2bims



Joined: 03 Apr 2010
Posts: 7289

PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2014 9:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SethG wrote:
trev45 wrote:

Trev




Quote:
or bike is in neutral but the light isn't on


it seemed like the neutral sensor wasn't working very well for sure. Finding neutral was a little difficult, finding neutral + neutral light on was a job for sure.

I'll also check on the oil line air, I wouldn't be surprised at all to find that problem!


They all have the "finding Neutral tricky" issue.........its easier to shift it into neutral properly just before the bike comes to a stop when coasting up to lights etc......or when engine isnt running......

Maybe when you have time also check the oil in the gearbox......mine came with some putrid smelling caramel coloured muck that was probably in there for the last 17 years.........There is no sight window on the gearbox...just an allen headed bolt that you remove from the left side crankcase and are supposed to pear into with sight to see if oil is low...when bike is stood upright......I dropped the sump plug and replaced with 10W 40 Fully synth....gives you a chance to check the magnet on the sump plug also for any gearbox swarth etc.....then just fill with 1.1 litres (metric) of oil into top of gearbox...until you see it running out of the sight hole.....allow to run out until it stops...put sight hole bolt back in....sits to left side of Brembo clutch slave cylinder....I presume you have downloaded the maintenance manuals from Pieros Vdue.it website?????

http://www.vdue.it/eng/manuali.htm
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trev45



Joined: 15 Jun 2011
Posts: 449
Location: Sydney Australia

PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2014 12:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the gear box is shimmed properly
it work fine and is very smooth

Trev
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SethG



Joined: 09 Aug 2014
Posts: 95

PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2014 4:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think it could use a better neutral sensor at least, but maybe it's more of a placement issue, something unsolvable.

Can I ask four quick questions:

With the Carbs and Jolly motos, does the exhaust servo system still work?

Are there replacements for the reeds? Can the reeds be an issue?

Is there something we can buy to reverse the shift, I have virtually no experience with a standard pattern and it's killing me.

What controls the ignition? Is it really the dash? Or is the dash just a display unit?
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2bims



Joined: 03 Apr 2010
Posts: 7289

PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2014 6:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm sure Trev will chip in also...but in answer...

I have seen replacement reeds available but havent had any issues with mine...big believer in "if it aint broke dont fix it" especially with the Vdues...as they can have enough issues anyhow to keep you busy..

The gear linkage can be reversed by flipping the front swivel pivot through 180 degrees...you may have to rotate it also to ensure it doesnt fowl anything...or play with the length of the gear rod...this would make it 1 up and 5 down...but again..I havent tried it..

Exhaust system servos with jollies are still functional...you'll hear them rotate each time you switch the ignition on..

Not sure which clocks you have on your bike...the white faced Stack dials or the led race clocks...with digital led speedo...tacho line in leds etc...this version is indeed the ECU also for the bike
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SethG



Joined: 09 Aug 2014
Posts: 95

PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2014 7:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

2bims wrote:
I'm sure Trev will chip in also...but in answer...

I have seen replacement reeds available but havent had any issues with mine...big believer in "if it aint broke dont fix it" especially with the Vdues...as they can have enough issues anyhow to keep you busy..

The gear linkage can be reversed by flipping the front swivel pivot through 180 degrees...you may have to rotate it also to ensure it doesnt fowl anything...or play with the length of the gear rod...this would make it 1 up and 5 down...but again..I havent tried it..

Exhaust system servos with jollies are still functional...you'll hear them rotate each time you switch the ignition on..

Not sure which clocks you have on your bike...the white faced Stack dials or the led race clocks...with digital led speedo...tacho line in leds etc...this version is indeed the ECU also for the bike


If you just flip it, it hits the slave cylinder right away, which is pretty big and seems to block the options in every direction. But I could try changing rod length too.

Thanks for clearing up the other points!
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trev45



Joined: 15 Jun 2011
Posts: 449
Location: Sydney Australia

PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2014 11:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

To change to race patten

You need to pull the gear leaver off loosen the big nut on it
then spin the center around 180 degrease , easy

You can not spin the link on the gear serlector shaft
as it fits the slave cylinder

Trev
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2bims



Joined: 03 Apr 2010
Posts: 7289

PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2014 11:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeh thats that way also...undo the large allen bolt behind the footpeg hanger...it will be tight....and take off the assembly as theres a locking pin in the hanger for the gear rod at the footpeg end...that once you take it apart and pull it off you can fit it 180 degrees around so it pulls instead of pushed...and vice versa.....evidently extend out the gear rod on the adjusters as it will need to be a little longer.....DB2's have their gear rod this way as a norm...running over the footpeg and not under it
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Bud977



Joined: 03 Mar 2013
Posts: 525
Location: Sydney

PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 1:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That sounds like what I did to my YB8 to get race pattern shifting.

If it's the same, you have to work out where you need the pin, then grind a new groove for the pin in the pedal housing. Be careful as there is not much metal there.
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SethG



Joined: 09 Aug 2014
Posts: 95

PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 3:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm going to give it a try as soon as I get the bike back.

Thanks for all the good advice. My hunch is that tank isn't venting all of a sudden. But it could be a carb or other problem.
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vort28



Joined: 22 Mar 2010
Posts: 2194
Location: Northwest , UK

PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 8:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Seth. Bit late to the party on this but welcome to the forum.
Does sound like a vent issue , had a similar thing on my YB11 with a special tank, did about 30 miles before stopping and limping home.
But onto vdue- congrads on your purchase and as other have said, nice BST's Laughing
On the carb front I would give them a good clean as my vdue ran for about 50 miles before playing up and it turned out to be a bloked jet, also check balance of carbs and throttle cable routing and actuation .
Surprised to hear there is little smoke and no oil residue as usually they are set VERY rich on oil.
If you can post some more pictures and especially one's whilst in bits in the shop we can definately help with the identification issues, plus we like pictures.
Also don't get to wound up on the bodywork/colour/stickers etc , as 2bims says there are a few of us with EF10's and I bet no 2 are identical , but on thing is for sure the belly pan should be carbon to clear the airboxes, if it plastic it should have spacer straps between the 2 halves and more likely to be a trofeo.
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SethG



Joined: 09 Aug 2014
Posts: 95

PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 2:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just got back from the dealer with the bike, I hadn't told them about the rubber plug Trev45 mentioned, but they found the problem themselves:



Next problem is that it's idling between 2400 and 2600 rpm, not sure if the idle screw is set wrong or the choke is stuck on. I'll begin investigating!
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trev45



Joined: 15 Jun 2011
Posts: 449
Location: Sydney Australia

PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 5:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check and clean carbs
Check cables fitment

Ride the ass out of it and tell it who's boss

Trev
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Chris F



Joined: 19 Oct 2012
Posts: 78
Location: Cornwall

PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 10:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

has similar issues on idling. one of the chokes was stuck but inside the housing, not the cables, which as everyone knows are cack.

Was reading you neutral issue. I don't personally find it any worst than any other bike to be honest. tiny bit tricky but then what 2 stroke engine isn't. My RS250 and NS400 are not so different. Apart from that I personally think the gearbox is really good and has a good gear change and nice n quick too. certainly much better than the honda, but then what isn't tbh....
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