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YB-6 Japan Model, pink & purple?
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bloodnut



Joined: 10 Oct 2014
Posts: 15
Location: New Zealand

PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 6:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey guys, any tips for taking the carbs off, how do you get to the screws?
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laminator



Joined: 27 Oct 2007
Posts: 320
Location: Midlands

PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 10:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, carbs are a nightmare unfortunately, due to the cross member behind them. The last time I took them off my YB10 I was lucky. I pulled them off and managed to waggle them back on with a lot of downward pressure. I actually made a tool out of an allen key driver bit and a 500mm long piece of stainless rod.

Another method is to tilt the engine in the frame by removing some engine mounts!

I have no idea how to balance the carbs. I've got a morgan carbtune, but to get to the adjusters the carbs need removing?

I'll have a look in my workshop manual and see what that says.
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Jonny B Bad



Joined: 05 Dec 2009
Posts: 555
Location: NE London

PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 5:50 pm    Post subject: Yb6 carbs Reply with quote

With my 8, which I think is the same frame, I use a couple of flexible screwdriver shafts and a 2.5mm Allen bit. To make it easier to put them back on I put a smear of silicone grease round the inside of the boot that holds them to the head. When you refurbish the carbs, it's worth replacing the O rings under the mixture screws. Some refurb kits include these O rings and others don't - needless to say look for those which include this very small O ring, or buy some separately.
Good luck!
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Bud977



Joined: 03 Mar 2013
Posts: 525
Location: Sydney

PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 10:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Same. I use a 1/4" square drive screwdriver from a small socket set, fit the universal joint to bend around corners, 1/4" square to female hex adaptor, then a allen screw hex bit.

I've had to resort to standing on the carbs to get them back in! But now I've got new carb manifold rubbers, it should be much easier.
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bloodnut



Joined: 10 Oct 2014
Posts: 15
Location: New Zealand

PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2015 7:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey All,

I have the carbs off, they popped with a small nudge.

I have removed the black engine as i'm switching to an exup motor for racing. I have some questions for you knowledgeable ones;

1) From the photos of Bud's bike the engine mount plates have changed on the side top mount, on my engine the bracket extends to the outside head bolts, see pic, in buds photos the plate looks like it only has the main screw?

Are the head bolts and locations the same? will my plates attach to the exup motor and bolt up?

2) Wiring loom, cdi etc, I have the exup loom but the locations and shape of things is different and will take some adapting to the YB6, will the Genesis electrics be ok with the exup engine? I think the rev limit is 500 revs lower on the genesis but I could switch the cdi out for an ignitech? I wont be using exup as it will be for racing.

3) I understand the exup countershaft sprocket will sit further out from the center line of the engine because of the larger gearbox shaft bearing, is there an offset sprocket out there to compensate, I have heard the r6 sprockets are the same spline but a different offset?

cheers
Jared[img][/img][img][/img]
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bloodnut



Joined: 10 Oct 2014
Posts: 15
Location: New Zealand

PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2015 7:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.dropbox.com/s/zsl6ui4lnm5fr59/20150118_182957.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/p5s9n55uto0eg7z/20150118_183005.jpg?dl=0
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Bud977



Joined: 03 Mar 2013
Posts: 525
Location: Sydney

PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2015 10:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The mounting lugs on the the head look to be in a different spot. I'd try the old plates to the cylinder head nut brackets. If it doesn't work, you will have to buy or make new plates.

You will need to grind down the overflow tube holder on the back of the motor or else it will hit the swingarm and the motor won't go in.

I would recommend the Ignitech. Instead of wasting my time trying to adapt the OEM loom, I made up a new loom that has only 6 wires. Much simpler and more reliable than the OEM birds nest. I've got the battery, ignition, fuel pump, on/off switch, tacho and water temp guage and that's it.

I didn't know about the different sprocket offset. I thought they were all the same. All the sprockets I've seen have the back of the sprocket offset the same amount from the boss at the back. This makes sense as when you change to say a 520 kit, the rear sprocket face stays against the wheel so the front sprocket has to re-align to suit.
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