Bimota Forum

[kiwigeoff]

I need to remove my front wheel and it looks like I need a special tool to remove the front axle. Can anyone advise me what I need.

I also have an issue with my front disks in that I get uneven breaking at very low speed and some vibration under heavy breaking at very high speed. I am looking at options and was wondering if the brembo disks from the "R" version will fit my wheel?

Apart from the issue with the front break have had a lot of fun adding 3000Km since September.

Regards Geoff
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Kiwi DB6

2006 DB6

[spidermaan]

After lift the front wheel remove the plug to the left side, from the right side use this key (I don't know the english name)


my memory says the size is 14 on metric unit.

Before change disc try to change the pad wear, or before that try to clean the brake system, the cilynder too. It is the spending less.
It is possible the disc it isn't straight and so you have this feeling on braking. On the bracking track of disc do you see any mark? perhaps it is ruined
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http://bcomebimota.blogspot.it/

[2bims]

Hi Kiwigeoff......
Yeh...its a big Allen key you need....alternatively buy a full set of Chuck keys for spindle removal or one like this that fits onto your ratchet driver/torque wrench

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AXLE-SPINDLE-REMOVAL-TOOL-5-IN-ONE-14mm-17mm-19mm-22mm-24mm-Allen-Key-Motorbike-/261620722638?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3ce9cf6bce

Just check the internal diameter first to make sure you get the right size....I'll check mine later for you just to be sure....

It sounds like you do have a warped disc....maybe caused by a sticking piston heating up the disc too much....or air in the system that has expanded under load causing the psiton to lock on....I presume you have wavey "braking" discs on it?? Brembo 320mm discs from an R should be a direct swop as same size diameter and same fork and brake caliper set up....but you would have to check the bolt hole fixing as evidently the R has different wheels fitted than the standard DB6..........If you can get your front end on a stem stand so its elevated.....you should be able to check the disc by rotating the wheel and see if it deviates from side to side.....or take the disc off and see if it sits flat on a flat surface...a window or worktop would do....Otherwise also check pistons arent sticking as already mentioned....Brake judder at high speed could be a disc...it could also be wheel bearings...so again....putting the front of the bike on a bike stand and grabbing the wheel from side to side should see if the bearings are OK....also check the front steering headstock is not loose.....push the bike against a solid wall and see if you can feel movement

Dont assume its not wheel bearings...some folk have had them fail early on these models...and my own DB6R had a loose steering head at less than 2,000miles

[2bims]

Confirmed....14mm it is.........I use a tool from a Sump plug removal set...that has 14mm in there....on the other end you fit a ratchet set drive and appropriate sized socket....then you can also use a torque wrench drive on it....these are easier to find at any car accessory tool shop

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6Pc-Oil-Sump-Fill-Drain-Plug-Brake-Key-Set-Axles-GearBox-Car-Repair-Garage-Tool-/110919664152?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item19d353c218

Just check that they have a 14mm drive in the set

[2bims]

[spidermaan]

[Hursty]

Hi Geoff
The Bimota's are getting more common in Kiwiland by the day
This has just arrived at the
http://www.carbon-garage.com/shop/superbikesforsale.html



Its in need of a bit of tlc





And has a side stand worse than my SB6 had


Made me appreciate how mint mine is with the same mileage but of course its a lot rarer bike
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Hursty from kiwi land

[deebee4]

Somebody definetly had sore nuts on this YB8......

Funny cracks around the windscreen....
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Track riding on a Bimota: FUN!

[kiwigeoff]

Hi all
I tried the 14 mm allen key and it seems that my bike is a little different as this was way too small.
On closer inspection it has 6 groves on the inside that look like to Torx tool would fit (Google “T90 Torx”) . So is purchased a T90 Torx tool that unfortunately didn't fit. After some modification of the tool with my bench grinder it worked perfectly and I can now remove my front wheel.
Now all I need to do is sort out the pulsing breaks as I may have to replace the disks but I need to be sure prior to spending a large amount of $$$ on new disks and pads.
Regards Geoff
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Kiwi DB6

2006 DB6

[deebee4]

[Jonny B Bad]

More likely than warped discs is scored caliper piston seals on one or more pistons. Take the pads out of the calipers and then gently squeeze the lever to see if all Pistons are being pushed out equally. If not, the caliper/calipers need stripping and new fluid and dust seals installing.
Good luck.
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What, Jonny's gone!

[kiwigeoff]

Thanks for the help with this one.
I have removed the wheel and disks, cleaned the disks, checked the wheel bearings, removed the pads, cleaned them and checked the operation of the pistons. From what I can see the headstock and wheel bearings are good, the disks look to be good (although I have not checked them with an accurate dial gauge yet). The pads look good however the pistons seem to not operate evenly.
With a little force I can move them all in and out. That is I push one in the alternative one comes out or I expand one pair and one of the other one moves. Taking Jonny B Bad’s advice it looks like I need to get a seal kit and strip down and refurbish the calipers.
I put everything back together and the issue had gone away. Unfortunately this was temporary as when I got some temperature into the breaks the pulsing came back.
So my next step it to procure a seal kit (and some new pads) and see if this helps. I will also check the disks using a dial gauge that I can attach to the fork and measure very accurately any misalignment.
Once again thanks for the advice and I will update the post when I make some progress.
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Kiwi DB6

2006 DB6

[2bims]

Have you bled the hydraulics on the system at all to ensure theres no air in the lines/calipers? When the brakes come up to temperature do you feel that the travel on the lever has been shortened before they start to bite? This would be a sign that theres air in the system....that expands when the temp rises...causing the shortened lever travel and forcing the pistons onto the discs....the fluid itself wont expand but air in the system certainly will......bleed off at the calipers...and if you have a bleed nipple on the master cylinder do it here first...as air rises....Had this before with my DB6 when the calipers locked on....and brake lever was zero travel...just bled the air out of the lines via the bleed nipple on the master cylinder...although I have brembo radial masters on mine...and they have a nipple for bleeding on them as standard....you can buy a replacement banjo fitting on the hose at the master that has a bleed nipple on the end...makes it far easier to bleed....

You can also clean the calipers and pistons with a soft toothbrush and brake fluid...it wont harm the pistons or the seals....as they are evidently resistant to brake fluid....just ensure they are dry before refitting with the pads...and put copper slip grease on the back of the pads to stop squealling of the pads on the pistons...as this can increase temp on the fluids also....

[kiwigeoff]

I finally fixed the problem with new disks. (see other post).
The DB6 now has new disks, wheel bearings and piston seals.
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Kiwi DB6

2006 DB6