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kiwigeoff
Joined: 09 Sep 2014 Posts: 11 Location: New Zealand
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Posted: Wed Dec 10, 2014 8:03 am Post subject: Tool to remove the front axle on my DB6 |
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I need to remove my front wheel and it looks like I need a special tool to remove the front axle. Can anyone advise me what I need.
I also have an issue with my front disks in that I get uneven breaking at very low speed and some vibration under heavy breaking at very high speed. I am looking at options and was wondering if the brembo disks from the "R" version will fit my wheel?
Apart from the issue with the front break have had a lot of fun adding 3000Km since September.
Regards Geoff _________________ Kiwi DB6
2006 DB6 |
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spidermaan
Joined: 04 Jul 2012 Posts: 92 Location: nord-east Italy
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Posted: Wed Dec 10, 2014 10:18 am Post subject: |
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After lift the front wheel remove the plug to the left side, from the right side use this key (I don't know the english name)
my memory says the size is 14 on metric unit.
Before change disc try to change the pad wear, or before that try to clean the brake system, the cilynder too. It is the spending less.
It is possible the disc it isn't straight and so you have this feeling on braking. On the bracking track of disc do you see any mark? perhaps it is ruined _________________ http://bcomebimota.blogspot.it/ |
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2bims
Joined: 03 Apr 2010 Posts: 7289
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Posted: Wed Dec 10, 2014 11:19 am Post subject: |
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Hi Kiwigeoff......
Yeh...its a big Allen key you need....alternatively buy a full set of Chuck keys for spindle removal or one like this that fits onto your ratchet driver/torque wrench
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AXLE-SPINDLE-REMOVAL-TOOL-5-IN-ONE-14mm-17mm-19mm-22mm-24mm-Allen-Key-Motorbike-/261620722638?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3ce9cf6bce
Just check the internal diameter first to make sure you get the right size....I'll check mine later for you just to be sure....
It sounds like you do have a warped disc....maybe caused by a sticking piston heating up the disc too much....or air in the system that has expanded under load causing the psiton to lock on....I presume you have wavey "braking" discs on it?? Brembo 320mm discs from an R should be a direct swop as same size diameter and same fork and brake caliper set up....but you would have to check the bolt hole fixing as evidently the R has different wheels fitted than the standard DB6..........If you can get your front end on a stem stand so its elevated.....you should be able to check the disc by rotating the wheel and see if it deviates from side to side.....or take the disc off and see if it sits flat on a flat surface...a window or worktop would do....Otherwise also check pistons arent sticking as already mentioned....Brake judder at high speed could be a disc...it could also be wheel bearings...so again....putting the front of the bike on a bike stand and grabbing the wheel from side to side should see if the bearings are OK....also check the front steering headstock is not loose.....push the bike against a solid wall and see if you can feel movement
Dont assume its not wheel bearings...some folk have had them fail early on these models...and my own DB6R had a loose steering head at less than 2,000miles |
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2bims
Joined: 03 Apr 2010 Posts: 7289
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2bims
Joined: 03 Apr 2010 Posts: 7289
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Posted: Wed Dec 10, 2014 12:45 pm Post subject: |
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spidermaan wrote: |
After lift the front wheel remove the plug to the left side, from the right side use this key (I don't know the english name)
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We call them "allen Keys" Spidermann...and yup...14mm it is |
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spidermaan
Joined: 04 Jul 2012 Posts: 92 Location: nord-east Italy
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Posted: Wed Dec 10, 2014 1:53 pm Post subject: |
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2bims wrote: |
spidermaan wrote: |
After lift the front wheel remove the plug to the left side, from the right side use this key (I don't know the english name)
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We call them "allen Keys" Spidermann...and yup...14mm it is |
Thanks, we call them "Brugola keys" _________________ http://bcomebimota.blogspot.it/ |
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Hursty
Joined: 29 Aug 2012 Posts: 319 Location: New Zealand
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Posted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 12:46 am Post subject: |
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Hi Geoff
The Bimota's are getting more common in Kiwiland by the day
This has just arrived at the
http://www.carbon-garage.com/shop/superbikesforsale.html
Its in need of a bit of tlc
And has a side stand worse than my SB6 had
Made me appreciate how mint mine is with the same mileage but of course its a lot rarer bike _________________ Hursty from kiwi land |
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deebee4
Joined: 08 Jan 2011 Posts: 266 Location: Netherlands
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Posted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 8:53 pm Post subject: |
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Somebody definetly had sore nuts on this YB8......
Funny cracks around the windscreen.... _________________ Track riding on a Bimota: FUN! |
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kiwigeoff
Joined: 09 Sep 2014 Posts: 11 Location: New Zealand
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Posted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 6:13 am Post subject: |
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Hi all
I tried the 14 mm allen key and it seems that my bike is a little different as this was way too small.
On closer inspection it has 6 groves on the inside that look like to Torx tool would fit (Google “T90 Torx”) . So is purchased a T90 Torx tool that unfortunately didn't fit. After some modification of the tool with my bench grinder it worked perfectly and I can now remove my front wheel.
Now all I need to do is sort out the pulsing breaks as I may have to replace the disks but I need to be sure prior to spending a large amount of $$$ on new disks and pads.
Regards Geoff _________________ Kiwi DB6
2006 DB6 |
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deebee4
Joined: 08 Jan 2011 Posts: 266 Location: Netherlands
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Posted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 7:33 am Post subject: |
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kiwigeoff wrote: |
Hi all
I tried the 14 mm allen key and it seems that my bike is a little different as this was way too small.
On closer inspection it has 6 groves on the inside that look like to Torx tool would fit (Google “T90 Torx”) . So is purchased a T90 Torx tool that unfortunately didn't fit. After some modification of the tool with my bench grinder it worked perfectly and I can now remove my front wheel.
Now all I need to do is sort out the pulsing breaks as I may have to replace the disks but I need to be sure prior to spending a large amount of $$$ on new disks and pads.
Regards Geoff |
Those "pulsing" brakes could be either greasy or (worse) warped disk(s).
First take off the pads and calipers and clean the disks thouroughly with a clean cloth and brake cleaner. Better do that with the wheel still in place. Then lift front wheel of the ground (preferably with a front stand) rotate the wheel and check for warping with a stiff wire (like locking wire) around one caliper bolt in place so that it acts like a pointer. It has to touch the surface of the disk just barely. Now rotate the wheel slowly and see it it touches the disk more or gets free from the disk.
If so your disk is warped and that calls for replacement. Of not you can inspect (rough edges?) and clean the pads, just wipe them clean with the rag, a little wet with braking cleaner. Don't use emery cloth or sanding paper because the grinding material can set itself loose and settle into the brake pads' surface. That will wear out the disk more rapidly. Then refit and ride and see how it behaves.
Cheers! _________________ Track riding on a Bimota: FUN! |
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Jonny B Bad
Joined: 05 Dec 2009 Posts: 555 Location: NE London
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Posted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 11:08 pm Post subject: DB6 |
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More likely than warped discs is scored caliper piston seals on one or more pistons. Take the pads out of the calipers and then gently squeeze the lever to see if all Pistons are being pushed out equally. If not, the caliper/calipers need stripping and new fluid and dust seals installing.
Good luck. _________________ What, Jonny's gone! |
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kiwigeoff
Joined: 09 Sep 2014 Posts: 11 Location: New Zealand
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Posted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 9:26 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for the help with this one.
I have removed the wheel and disks, cleaned the disks, checked the wheel bearings, removed the pads, cleaned them and checked the operation of the pistons. From what I can see the headstock and wheel bearings are good, the disks look to be good (although I have not checked them with an accurate dial gauge yet). The pads look good however the pistons seem to not operate evenly.
With a little force I can move them all in and out. That is I push one in the alternative one comes out or I expand one pair and one of the other one moves. Taking Jonny B Bad’s advice it looks like I need to get a seal kit and strip down and refurbish the calipers.
I put everything back together and the issue had gone away. Unfortunately this was temporary as when I got some temperature into the breaks the pulsing came back.
So my next step it to procure a seal kit (and some new pads) and see if this helps. I will also check the disks using a dial gauge that I can attach to the fork and measure very accurately any misalignment.
Once again thanks for the advice and I will update the post when I make some progress. _________________ Kiwi DB6
2006 DB6 |
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2bims
Joined: 03 Apr 2010 Posts: 7289
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Posted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 10:08 pm Post subject: |
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Have you bled the hydraulics on the system at all to ensure theres no air in the lines/calipers? When the brakes come up to temperature do you feel that the travel on the lever has been shortened before they start to bite? This would be a sign that theres air in the system....that expands when the temp rises...causing the shortened lever travel and forcing the pistons onto the discs....the fluid itself wont expand but air in the system certainly will......bleed off at the calipers...and if you have a bleed nipple on the master cylinder do it here first...as air rises....Had this before with my DB6 when the calipers locked on....and brake lever was zero travel...just bled the air out of the lines via the bleed nipple on the master cylinder...although I have brembo radial masters on mine...and they have a nipple for bleeding on them as standard....you can buy a replacement banjo fitting on the hose at the master that has a bleed nipple on the end...makes it far easier to bleed....
You can also clean the calipers and pistons with a soft toothbrush and brake fluid...it wont harm the pistons or the seals....as they are evidently resistant to brake fluid....just ensure they are dry before refitting with the pads...and put copper slip grease on the back of the pads to stop squealling of the pads on the pistons...as this can increase temp on the fluids also.... |
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kiwigeoff
Joined: 09 Sep 2014 Posts: 11 Location: New Zealand
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Posted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 5:41 am Post subject: |
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I finally fixed the problem with new disks. (see other post).
The DB6 now has new disks, wheel bearings and piston seals. _________________ Kiwi DB6
2006 DB6 |
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