Bimota Forum

[gary sb6r]

Hi guys
Recently bought SB6R from guy in Holland.
Bit of carbon on it and special exhaust
Runs and rides lovely but has a charging issue.
Battery is not charging when running but battery is ok.
Voltage just slowly drops with engine running.
I am thinking regulator or generator problem.
I know engine is gsxr1100 lump possibly 'W' but not sure what model, need to know for spares.
Any handy does and donts appriciated.
Needs a rear hugger

new ground for me so be gentle

gary
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G Smith.
Current rides, SP2, CBX special, ZX12R, ZX7R, GPZ1100a2 , SB6R, 1200 daytona

[Evilchicken0]

The engine is a GSX-R1100W 1993 or later.

It sounds like it could be the generator couple it transfers drive from the engine to the generator. The bearing breaks down and the batteries don't charge.
Suzuki redesigned it so you should be able to buy the upgraded parts, they have to be pressed on with an hydraulic press.

Problem is getting the generator out. It's been said it can be done with the engine in the frame but I'm not sure if it's possible
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Don't read everything you believe

[brian]

G'day Gary and welcome to the forum. One possibility for your charging issue might be the alternator coupling, these are known to fail. I'd be checking easier stuff first though as its a difficult job getting the alternator out. Yes, W model Gixxer 1100 in these.

If you can figure out how to post pics here (may need to search for a how to thread), post some pics of the new beastie.

Lots of great info on the forum. Nice line up of bikes you have there. What model is your ZX7?
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'99 DB4 #104, '96 SB6 #1165, '94 DB2 J #652, '99 DB4 #088, '08 VTX1800, '93 ZXR750R M1, '95 ZXR750, '95 ZXR750 Race Bike, '94 CBR400rr NC29 Race Bike, '94 CB250, '49 BSA C10 250, '61 BSA A10 650, '89 ZXR750, '91 Ducati 851

[brian]

Haha EC and I must have been typing at the same time

I'm the slower typer
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'99 DB4 #104, '96 SB6 #1165, '94 DB2 J #652, '99 DB4 #088, '08 VTX1800, '93 ZXR750R M1, '95 ZXR750, '95 ZXR750 Race Bike, '94 CBR400rr NC29 Race Bike, '94 CB250, '49 BSA C10 250, '61 BSA A10 650, '89 ZXR750, '91 Ducati 851

[Jonny B Bad]

As Chuckie and Brian have said, it is most likely the coupler that sits on the end of the starter clutch shaft and drives the generator. It gets wrecked by trying to start the bike with a weak battery. The generator comes out with the motor in the frame, but the starter clutch cover has very long bolts, which will not clear the frame with the motor in place. From memory, you need both the coupler and the bearing on the shaft, because you have to pull the two together. Sounds like a big job, but once you've got the starter clutch cover off, it's a doddle, as the starter clutch shaft just lifts out. Again, as Chuckie says, you'll need access to a hydraulic press to put the new bearing and coupler on. Also, there's an O-ring that seals the joint between the generator and the starter clutch housing, that's worth replacing to avoid oil leaks.

If you have to replace this coupler, I would brace yourself for dealing with one or two of the 6R's other foibles. I won't list them, as we're both likely to get depressed. Happy to give you some pointers, should you need them - particularly with fuelling. The good news is that, once sorted, they are a flying machine.

Good luck.
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What, Jonny's gone!

[gary sb6r]

Cheers guys

Yes as you all suspected it is the coupler the rubber drive looks to have shredded itself.
I managed to get the generator out without dropping the engine from the frame, But have had to remove nearly everything else to get at the bugger.
But if I need to get the starter cover off Its looking like I will need to drop the engine, or at least pivot it as cover sits under the crossbar that the shock mounts under. Advice ???
Certainly a fair amount of effort to check a generator.
Are the spare parts I need already upgraded/modded or do I need to specify anything in particuler.
Of note the guy at Grumpy 1260 was most helpful and seemed to know a fair bit bout these when I spoke to him on the phone.
What other delights can I expect to go wrong as I may as well check while I have it all apart.
Chain looks to be very close to the rear tyre ! is this normal?
cheers for the help guys
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G Smith.
Current rides, SP2, CBX special, ZX12R, ZX7R, GPZ1100a2 , SB6R, 1200 daytona

[gary sb6r]

Oh
ZX7R is a P4 model green and white with purple wheels and splashs on seat unit.
I will get photos on once I sort out how to do, its telling me the file is to big

Cheers gary
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G Smith.
Current rides, SP2, CBX special, ZX12R, ZX7R, GPZ1100a2 , SB6R, 1200 daytona

[brian]

You need to save the photo's to a host like photo bucket or similar and then direct link them to the forum using the img button above
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'99 DB4 #104, '96 SB6 #1165, '94 DB2 J #652, '99 DB4 #088, '08 VTX1800, '93 ZXR750R M1, '95 ZXR750, '95 ZXR750 Race Bike, '94 CBR400rr NC29 Race Bike, '94 CB250, '49 BSA C10 250, '61 BSA A10 650, '89 ZXR750, '91 Ducati 851

[Evilchicken0]

Check the chain and rear sprocket wear if they look on the worn side then now is the time to change them because the engine has to be dropped or part dropped to undo the sprocket cover to get the front sprocket off. If you do this then you can go for a 520 conversion - saves unsprung weight.

Check the clutch slave cylinder, take it apart and make sure the piston isn't pitted and if the seal is in anyway dodgy change it. Because the slave mounts from the inside of the cover this can't be done with the engine insitu.

Get the suspension set up when it's all done
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Don't read everything you believe

[Jonny B Bad]

The other things to deal with while the motor's lowered are new chain and sprockets, as the engine sprocket can't be removed with the engine in the frame. Also take the clutch slave off and change the piston seal and change the banjo bolt for a stainless one, as the originals corrode and pollute the fluid. You might also want to check the valve clearances. Other than that, the motor is sound.
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What, Jonny's gone!

[Jonny B Bad]

Chain will be close to the tyre if it's got a 190 tyre on the back. I would swap it for a 180. Whilst a 190 was an option, it is really too big for that wheel.

You will have to drop the motor on a jack to get the starter clutch housing bolts out. From memory, pivotting it won't give you enough clearance. I'm noy sure that the part has been upgraded. It works fine provided you don't try to start it with a heavly discharged battery. Get a lithium or an absorbed glass mat battery, which are much lighter than lead acid - useful since it sits high on the bike - and they don't self discharge like lead acid batteries.
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What, Jonny's gone!

[gary sb6r]

Cheers guys
Most helpfull, best crack on and get the old one out tomorrow.
Any recommends for the chain type / make ?
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G Smith.
Current rides, SP2, CBX special, ZX12R, ZX7R, GPZ1100a2 , SB6R, 1200 daytona

[Jonny B Bad]

DID ZVM-X chain. Personally, I wouldn't go for a 520 chain. It will do the job, but a 530 will last longer, given the torque this motor knocks out and given the hassle of changing it. Engine sprocket is standard GSXR 1100, but you'll have to get the back one made up. B&C express will do you the full monty. You want the rear hard anodized for longevity.
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What, Jonny's gone!

[gary sb6r]

Got the bugger out.
You have to drop the engine completely you cant get the clearance from
just swinging it on the rear mount.
One of the bolts is about 5 times longer than it needs to be.
Off to Suziki shop to get bearing o ring and new coupler.
These Bimota things are not the easiest to work on there is not a great deal of room for anything and I have big sausage fingers.
Hmm what next now??
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G Smith.
Current rides, SP2, CBX special, ZX12R, ZX7R, GPZ1100a2 , SB6R, 1200 daytona

[Evilchicken0]

There's a code on the sprockets that will give them the pattern and pitch.
Mine has Machasini wheels and the rear sprocket is the same as a GSXR1100
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Don't read everything you believe