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YB10 won't start
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Tirefriar



Joined: 18 Dec 2014
Posts: 659
Location: USA

PostPosted: Sat Nov 28, 2015 6:19 am    Post subject: YB10 won't start Reply with quote

My recently purchased YB10 failed to start yesterday. I had the bike sitting in the garage while I was waiting for the registration to go through. Got the bike end of September. Started it up every 3 weeks, had it on battery tender.

Yesterday it failed to start. Engine cranks but doesn't run. I thought it was fuel, pulled all the fairings off, air box, fuel cell. Checked juice to the fuel pump. Then disconnected the output end of the pump - gas coming thrum in healthy squirts. Put starting fluids into the carbs - started and ran for few seconds then died.

Califonia gas has ethanol. However, I started the bike maybe not as often as I should have but I start every bike I don't use at least once every three weeks.

The pisser is that I finally received my plates today. Talk about poetic injustice. Maybe riding a Bimota is not in the cards for me....
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Bud977



Joined: 03 Mar 2013
Posts: 525
Location: Sydney

PostPosted: Sat Nov 28, 2015 10:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it starts with starter fluid, then it sounds like a carb problem. Before pulling off the carbs for a look, I would give them a lazy mans clean. Use a compressor to blow air down the fuel inlet pipe going to the carb which will blow out small bits of rubbish or release a sticking float valve. Start off gently as there will be fuel holding the floats up. Once that blows out the overflows you can increase the airflow.
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who



Joined: 10 Nov 2010
Posts: 402
Location: Melbourne Australia

PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2015 2:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, starting these bikes and running them up in the shed destroys the plugs. Get a new set. Don't worry about anything fancy (like iridium) oem are fine. I change mine with every oil change, it's a pain, but worth it.

Depending on how many Km on the bike, also think about valve clearances, this series of engines has a tendency for the inlet valves to recede. Causing closed valves.

Balancing carbs once you get your plugs changed can turn one of these from a spluttering barely running pig into a stallion.

Of course pop the carbs off and clean them with compressed air and a good quality carb cleaner checking all the jets for cleanliness. Ultra sonic cleaning is the way to go.

Before you get too carried away change your plugs. Cheers.
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Tirefriar



Joined: 18 Dec 2014
Posts: 659
Location: USA

PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2015 3:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The plugs are new and the whole bike was gone through by the seller. Fouled plugs did cross my mind but replacing these seems to be quite a chore. I am going to check the fuel line leading to the fuel rail for kinks - the only line I didn't thoroughly inspect. All fuel lines are new.

Where does the choke cable connect? I'm thinking that mine may have come loose.

BTW, does changing yes require tilting the motor? Or can these be done in situ?
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Tirefriar



Joined: 18 Dec 2014
Posts: 659
Location: USA

PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2015 3:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The plugs are new and the whole bike was gone through by the seller. Fouled plugs did cross my mind but replacing these seems to be quite a chore. I am going to check the fuel line leading to the fuel rail for kinks - the only line I didn't thoroughly inspect. All fuel lines are new.

Where does the choke cable connect? I'm thinking that mine may have come loose.

BTW, does changing plugs equire tilting the motor? Or can these be done in situ?
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who



Joined: 10 Nov 2010
Posts: 402
Location: Melbourne Australia

PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2015 4:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can do institute, but you need the tools that allow you to work in the confined space. Let the radiator bolts go and let it hang forward, removing it completely will make life easier, as well as elimination the potential for rash.

You can foul plugs in just a couple of no load start ups and cool downs.

Another problem is the spark plug leads where they twist onto the caps. They are prone to loosening and oxidisation. Trim the ht leads leaving enough lead-in so you have a lead in with the caps. (6-7 mm)

It's always a work through process when recommissioning these old clunkers.

Choke cable is to he underside top of the carbs. I forget where it comes out on the YB11. All the earlier ones (YB series) come out through the triple clamps with a pull push knob centre of the triple bolt. Prone to cable kinking, stretching and wires breaking. Shocking idea.
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Tirefriar



Joined: 18 Dec 2014
Posts: 659
Location: USA

PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2015 5:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Being a YB10 the choke is the middle of the triple clamp. I will trace the cable. When I had the air box off I didn't really see any movement of cables in between carbs 2 and 3 when pulling on a choke. Should have checked on that at the time.

I might suspend the radiator and check on the plugs while it's still apart.
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2bims



Joined: 03 Apr 2010
Posts: 7289

PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2015 11:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm the same as who.....plugs can be pulled with motor in-situ.....tools are needed....a thin walled long socket for the plugs as the space is tight in there...a standard plug spanner may be too thick walled to insert...especially the middle cylinders...and then you may need a couple of those swivel kunckle adaptors to get a turn on the plugs...I went to a specialist tools supplier and bought a long socket, draper, that was thin walled enough to get over the plug and down to the hex of the plug
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Tirefriar



Joined: 18 Dec 2014
Posts: 659
Location: USA

PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2015 9:31 pm    Post subject: Dieci rides again... Reply with quote

...and happy days are here again!

Almost embarrassing to say but the culprit was the choke. Rather it was me not pulling it out enough. Dicked around with the fuel lines/pump some more and then looked at the choke. the engine started to grab, little at first and then it finally caught. On went the fairings.

The bike will not stay running with just the choke out, need to roll on the throttle until warm up. However, once at operating temp it starts right up and idles perfectly. Also, the temp gauge stopped working but this should be an easier fix.

The experience was not a total waste as I got to get intimate with my bike and see first hand the craftsmanship!

Today's ride was my first real ride (not counting test rides) on the Bimota. Went straight to the canyons. All I can say that it was worth jumping through the hoops on the way to my Bimota ownership.

Thanks to all for the advice!
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2bims



Joined: 03 Apr 2010
Posts: 7289

PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2015 9:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Whilst we may all believe that we "crave" for a simple life....buying and running and riding Bimotas means youre a masochist at heart......needing the punishment to more justify and intensify the pleasure....theres nothing better to be at one with your bike in having to fettle and fiddle with it to get it riding and running right....increases the enjoyment factor when the time and weather permits that you actually get to ride it...greater confidence inspires greater pleasure and self satisfaction......Now we just need you to upload a few photos of said beast being taken through the canyons to cheer up certainly us Brits left languishing in wet cold, windy frosty beginnings of UK winter..... Crying or Very sad
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Tirefriar



Joined: 18 Dec 2014
Posts: 659
Location: USA

PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2015 11:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

2bims, it will my pleasure to cheer up your dreary winter. This will need to wait till next weekend (hopefully it doesn't rain here). There are several photographers along the canyon route to take yer picture in the twisties. Here's one of them:

http://www.rockstorephotos.com/

Not to taunt anyone but If you look through the photos, you'll get a good feel for the bike and car culture in my neck of the woods.
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Tirefriar



Joined: 18 Dec 2014
Posts: 659
Location: USA

PostPosted: Sun Dec 06, 2015 5:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

[url]

Today at the Rock Store, well known riders' hangout. Darn cold this. Owning hence just a few bikes. Check out MHR in the back ground. Very cool.
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Tirefriar



Joined: 18 Dec 2014
Posts: 659
Location: USA

PostPosted: Sun Dec 06, 2015 5:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

[url][/url]
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Admin
Site Admin


Joined: 22 Oct 2007
Posts: 508
Location: Stafford, UK

PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2015 9:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Changing the plugs is easier than getting the carbs off!

The choke cable is quite short, and sits on top of the radiator. The original on mine was become a bit toasted. I ordered a copy made from it which cost a fortune and the inner was too short Evil or Very Mad . So I bought a kit for making cables and made one up. It goes in from the sprocket side of the bike (n/s in the UK, but in the US you drive on the other side so not sure whether near side would make sense!), connecting between the carbs for the 1st 2 cylinders.

If you take the carbs off then I would suggest a long flexible drive and an allen key bit. I bought something like this. Cheap but makes doing up the carb clamps FAR easier:-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/13-Pc-1-4-Inch-Drive-Extra-Long-Flexible-600mm-Screwdriver-Driver-Set-CT1517-/231428043431?hash=item35e22fb2a7:g:PQUAAOSw-W5Uvy7K

Carbs on mine are away being ultrasonically cleaned. I have a spare set on mine at the moment (except the choke connection is between the last 3 cylinders - had to make up another choke cable!).

All the best

Katy
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Tirefriar



Joined: 18 Dec 2014
Posts: 659
Location: USA

PostPosted: Tue Dec 08, 2015 4:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the details Katy. I saw where it comes through and is held in place with a retainer. Frankly I forgot to inspect the choke cable on my last ride this past Saturday as I was anxious to get out the gate. The bike started right away, I just had to roll on the throttle a bit to keep up rpms until the bike warmed up. Will look at the cable during the week. Those elongated flexible drives are very handy. It will be a new addition to my measly tool set
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