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YB10 inline fuel filter(s) and fuel line upgrade
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Tirefriar



Joined: 18 Dec 2014
Posts: 381
Location: USA

PostPosted: Tue Mar 15, 2016 6:48 am    Post subject: YB10 inline fuel filter(s) and fuel line upgrade Reply with quote

Like a dufus, I have been running my YB10 without a fuel filter. I've decided to install one, possibly 2 inline filters and upgrade the fuel lines at the same time.

Here's what I'm thinking (maybe not this particular brand):
http://www.amazon.com/Visu-Filter-Slimline-Compact-Body-Filter/dp/B003CJ95V6/ref=pd_sbs_263_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=41VMcG4NX6L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0JXKYXM87E6TH9D57AJR#customerReviews

I'm running 2 of these on my R100 GS, one for each Bing carb. My Beemer is practically a liter bike and I don't have any troubles with the flow. However, there are only 2 carbs on the Beemer vs 4 on YB10 so now I'm thinking about the flow restrictions.

At the same time I'd like to go to thinner fuel lines to better fit the right side petcock (non OE - I don't have reserve switch). The current lines are so thick I can't get a clamp on one of them and have to use wire. Here's one of the suggestions I'm considering:

http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-12-0051-Tygon-Premium/dp/B000WOJ7R6/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1458020720&sr=1-11&keywords=tygon+fuel+line

Any thoughts or recommendations? Thanks
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Jonny B Bad



Joined: 05 Dec 2009
Posts: 364
Location: NE London

PostPosted: Tue Mar 15, 2016 11:39 am    Post subject: YB10 fuel lines Reply with quote

Hi George, fuel lines are a tricky issue on the YBs because: 1) You have to make them up and then lower the fuel tank in on top of them, unable to see what's going on while you do this; 2) There is very little clearance between the underside of the tank and the top of the motor, wiring loom etc; 3) Any bends in the lines will be fine while the motor's cold, but when it warms up bends become kinks and then you've got fuel starvation issues. Of course, once you lift the tank to see what's going on, the fuel lines extend again and you can't see what was causing the problem. There is no room under there for more than one fuel filter and with the fuel pump and carefully run lines you won't need more than one. My recommendation would be a Pingel 2 in 1 out. With fuel hose, you either want to go thick wall, so that it is less likely to kink or thinner wall but use plastic elbows at every turn to avoid kinking. Hope that helps.
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Tirefriar



Joined: 18 Dec 2014
Posts: 381
Location: USA

PostPosted: Tue Mar 15, 2016 2:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Jonathan. Certainly helps in explaining the thick fuel lines. The thin ones will most likely kink and creating multiple joints in the fuel lines is creating as many opportunities for fuel leaks. I thought further and idea now is just to replace the return line which runs under the tank from one petcock to another. It should give me plenty of room to install clamps properly. The rest of the lines are fresh.
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Tirefriar



Joined: 18 Dec 2014
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 15, 2016 3:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just checked out Pingel. Quite fancy but look solid. One great advantage over the plastic filters is they are not affected by heat. Plastic ones tend to deform. How would you connect 2 into 1? Run the "in" lines off both petcocks? If so, what's the advantage? Pingel runs a 40 micron filter - is this sufficient? Will it impede fuel flow? Am I overthinking it now?
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Jonny B Bad



Joined: 05 Dec 2009
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 15, 2016 4:12 pm    Post subject: Dieci fuel lines Reply with quote

George, you're right, the Pingel filter won't deform and it has a bronze strainer inside, which can be cleaned and re-used. There should also be a strainer on the inlet tee to the carb bank, so plenty of filtration. Pingel are all about improved flow through their fuel cocks and filters, so flow should not be an issue. Because the cocks sit at the front of the tank, you have to run a return line to the pump, which sits forward of the tank, so you may as well connect each cock into the filter. I'll try and get some pictures up on the weekend.
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Tirefriar



Joined: 18 Dec 2014
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 16, 2016 4:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The reserve switch on my YB10 has been deleted and replaced with an aftermarket petcock. Here are the pictures:


If you notice, the upper fuel line is wire clamped because of the lack of room.

This is the picture of the left petcock:


I was actually thinking about replacing the connecting fuel line between the petcocks with a thinner line - its a straight shot under the fuel tank without any possibility of kinks. This will allow for proper clamping. I would then add the Pingel between the right petcock and the pump.
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Tirefriar



Joined: 18 Dec 2014
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 26, 2016 6:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I didn't get a chance to ride the Dieci last week, so it sat for about 2 weeks without being started. The fuel leak from the overflow line is back. Now is the perfect timing to install the fuel filter and possibly replace the return line under the tank.

Question: what is the ID of the fuel line = OD of the fuel filter inlet/outlet I will need?

Thank you
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Tirefriar



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PostPosted: Sat Mar 26, 2016 7:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any thoughts on this fuel line?
http://www.partsreloaded.com/Snowmobile/Air-Fuel/Fuel-Primer-Line/Blue-Fuel-Primer-Line/Blue-Fuel-Line-5-16-In-ID-x-10-Ft?gclid=CM7Xrpb33ssCFRVsfgodeHAPwQ
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Jonny B Bad



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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2016 4:10 pm    Post subject: YB10 fuel lines Reply with quote

Hi George

Here is a photo of the underside of the tank on my YB8:

http://s102.photobucket.com/user/jbourne371/media/IMG_0428_zpsuufheatt.jpg.html?sort=3&o=3

and here is a picture of the two float bowl breather pipes brought into a tee and then taken into the air box:

http://s102.photobucket.com/user/jbourne371/media/IMG_0426_zpsvfmatqck.jpg.html?sort=3&o=2

Whilst we're looking into the darkest recesses of a YB, I was amazed to see for sale recently a YB6 with the frame cross member cut out, to accommodate flat slide carbs. Who ever had fitted the flat slides in Japan had then had a small fire on the bike and so it has ended up as part of a job lot in the UK. Surely, this will be a death trap if somebody puts it back on the road?
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PaulDB2



Joined: 26 Apr 2014
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2016 4:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is this the YB6 with fire damage you saw?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191783466966?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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Bud977



Joined: 03 Mar 2013
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2016 7:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That one on eBay has had the frame member cut out. That's bad.

That's a drastic way to install flatslides. The cross member usually needs to be notched to get the flatslides in but not total removal.
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Tirefriar



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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2016 7:27 am    Post subject: Re: YB10 fuel lines Reply with quote

Jonny B Bad wrote:
Hi George

Here is a photo of the underside of the tank on my YB8:

http://s102.photobucket.com/user/jbourne371/media/IMG_0428_zpsuufheatt.jpg.html?sort=3&o=3

and here is a picture of the two float bowl breather pipes brought into a tee and then taken into the air box:

http://s102.photobucket.com/user/jbourne371/media/IMG_0426_zpsvfmatqck.jpg.html?sort=3&o=2

Whilst we're looking into the darkest recesses of a YB, I was amazed to see for sale recently a YB6 with the frame cross member cut out, to accommodate flat slide carbs. Who ever had fitted the flat slides in Japan had then had a small fire on the bike and so it has ended up as part of a job lot in the UK. Surely, this will be a death trap if somebody puts it back on the road?


That's some fancy plumbing there. I'll shoot you back picture of my tank once out so you can give me pointers. What is the Inside diameter of your fuel lines?

Running the float bowl breather pipes through the air box does exactly what?
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Jonny B Bad



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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2016 7:35 pm    Post subject: YB10 fuel lines Reply with quote

I'm using 8mm x 14mm fuel line. That way you can use 8mm fittings.

As regards plumbing the float bowl breathers into the air box, the theory is that both sets of breathers should be subject to the same air pressure as that at the venturi (the throat of the carb). The under slide breathers are plumbed into the void in the frame, fed by the two holes just ahead of the headstock, i.e. they are subject to the same pressure as that in the air box, but the float bowl breathers are just open to atmospheric pressure behind the motor. You may not notice any difference, or only at the top end, but at least the float bowl breathers will be delivering filtered air, rather than the unfiltered air they are delivering as standard.

Do one of you boys that put their YBs on the track want to chime in here?
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Bud977



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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2016 8:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can't run the carb overflows uphill into the airbox. If the floats stick, the fuel level will go too high, affecting jetting and possibly flooding the motor.

Also, you can't see fuel dripping out so you don't know you have a problem.

So I just leave my overflows hanging out the bottom as standard. Pressurised airboxes may need equal air pressure at all carby opening, but the YBs don't have any significant ram air.
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Jonny B Bad



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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2016 10:54 pm    Post subject: YB10 fuel lines Reply with quote

Thanks for that Bud. I guess we've got to remember that we're dealing with downdraught carbs here.
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