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YB10 inline fuel filter(s) and fuel line upgrade
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Jonny B Bad



Joined: 05 Dec 2009
Posts: 364
Location: NE London

PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2016 11:00 pm    Post subject: YB Flatslides Reply with quote

Bud, do you reckon a YB breathes well enough to feed flatslides? Not sure the clutch is strong enough to accommodate the extra power either?
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who



Joined: 10 Nov 2010
Posts: 297
Location: Melbourne Australia

PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2016 12:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flatslides will add around (up to) 10 rwhp, depending on the state of tune of the engine. It's not a huge increase, but all these FZR engines will benefit from this mod. Also, Barnett springs are a must, no other brand work well enough.

http://www.factorypro.com/tech/clutch_y.html

The earlier YB's with the black Genesis engines have an odd narrow plate and spring in the middle of the clutch pack, it's important to get rid of the plate and spring, replacing it with a normal plate. R6 plates are the same if you can't find an FZR one.
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Bud977



Joined: 03 Mar 2013
Posts: 324
Location: Sydney

PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2016 8:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The clutch handles the extra power without slipping although getting a smooth take up has always been a problem with the FZR motor. I've done the clutch hub mods and the cable clutch conversion and the take up is still sudden. Very unpredictable for race starts and one facet I don't like as on my other bikes I'm the holeshot king!
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Tirefriar



Joined: 18 Dec 2014
Posts: 381
Location: USA

PostPosted: Sun Apr 03, 2016 12:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jonathan, thanks for the idea of the 2 in 1 out filter. I just ordered a Pingel unit all with ABA 21014 clamps. What product are you using for quick disconnect? I was searching for a metal one, found this:

http://www.phatperformance.com/catalog/product/1/30392?source=googleps&gclid=CNHYqZn28MsCFRVsfgod5CkPSg

I will be buying 2. One for the tank and the other for an extension hose if and when I need to pull the tank but still need to have the fuel to the carbs.
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1991 Bimota YB10
2004 BMW Boxer Cup Replika #193
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Tirefriar



Joined: 18 Dec 2014
Posts: 381
Location: USA

PostPosted: Sun Apr 03, 2016 6:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found the quick disconnects I was looking for. I bought straight disconnect set and one set with a 90 degree elbow.

http://www.beemerboneyard.com/cpcqkdiscon1.html

http://www.beemerboneyard.com/cpcqkdisconktm.html

The 90* elbow connect could be useful in the tight confines of the YB10 gut...

I'm stoked!
Laughing
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Joined: 22 Oct 2007
Posts: 363
Location: Stafford, UK

PostPosted: Sun Apr 03, 2016 10:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

I know of someone who ran a turbo on an FZR1000 EXUP at one time.

Yamaha clutches are a pain for getting grabby (plus point is changing the plates is easy). Solid basket without the damper springs might help.

All the best

Katy
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Tirefriar



Joined: 18 Dec 2014
Posts: 381
Location: USA

PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2016 5:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Received my quick disconnects and clamps, now just waiting for the fuel filter to arrive. With the SB8R peeing oil out of the clutch cover, I need the YB10 in action ASAP. My friends are beginning to wonder....
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Tirefriar



Joined: 18 Dec 2014
Posts: 381
Location: USA

PostPosted: Sat Apr 23, 2016 7:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Inspired by 2bims, I decided to commence installing the fuel filter and to install quick disconnects to remove fuel tank easily. Found out quickly that there's really not much room and why the PO elected to forego the fuel filter. Filter is Pingel 2 in 1 out. (Thanks Jonathan). After several trials and errors (error was not cooling down my vodka bottle before starting this project), I decided to run the filter all the way to the rear crossmember:


The picture is of the proposed arrangement. There's a 90* quick disconnect at the corner. Finding the fuel filter location was one problem. The second is how to run the lines under the fuel cell. The fuel lines the bike cam with have 8mm ID and 14mm OD. The OD makes these quite thick and ungainly in the limited space between the fuel cell and starter.

Three options that I can think of:
1) run sections of metal fuel line piping in the limited "crawl space" under the fuel cell
2) run thinner outside diameter flexible fuel lines. The only ones I'm finding are for go carts and Jr. Dragsters (I think it should be good enough?)
3) run a step down connector (8mm to 5mm ID)

I'm more in tune with option 1 but am worried about a vapor lock in a rigid line. I like option one because of smaller OD and the ability of tubing to be formed any which way without kinking it.

I don't like the idea of option 3 as I'm afraid it will impede fuel delivery.

So am I over worried about vapor lock? Any suggestions?[/url]
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Tirefriar



Joined: 18 Dec 2014
Posts: 381
Location: USA

PostPosted: Sat Apr 23, 2016 7:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Forgot the fourth option: raise the tank ever so slightly to allow for the current thick lines to pass. However, I'm worried that the top fairing will not fit...
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2bims



Joined: 03 Apr 2010
Posts: 4401

PostPosted: Sat Apr 23, 2016 8:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tirefriar wrote:
Forgot the fourth option: raise the tank ever so slightly to allow for the current thick lines to pass. However, I'm worried that the top fairing will not fit...


Evidently every Bimota is different...but usually theres not a bad old space between the tank and seat/tank unit....My tank on the Db2 is lifted up almost an inch on one side so that the 90 degree bends in the cable travel for the flatslides can cross over a frame rail and under the tank....blocks of rubber cable tied to the frame rail achieved this.....although rubber rings sliced open and cable tied over a rail or somesuch would do the sale...

On my DB4...the whole seat and tank bodywork was raised half a centimetre or so to stop it rubbing on any of the frame/rear seat support...as they are known to crack at certain junctions...Not quite sure how this would fair on a YB10 with its side fairing panels fitting onto the tank seat unit though.....

Must be easy enough though to temporarily "prop" the tank half an inch higher and see if the tank unit/cover goes over and still lowers into the same position?...Or as a very quick suck and see....can you simply open up the "false" filler cap in the tank/seat unit....and see if you can work a flexible hose in and around exploring the gap between the tank seat unit and the tank itself? Evidently a flexible cable spy cam would be best for this but I dont think we all have one of those...
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Tirefriar



Joined: 18 Dec 2014
Posts: 381
Location: USA

PostPosted: Sat Apr 23, 2016 3:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bims, I would need no more than 1/4 inch lift on the tank to get the clearance I'm looking for. I will check lifting the tank to see how the top fairing fits.

Ideally though I'd like to get away from the sausage fuel lines I currently have and go with something more refined such as this: http://www.amazon.com/Allstar-ALL48328-Diameter-Plated-Stainless/dp/B006K8MC34

Beauty here is that I can use a bender to shape these any way I need without worrying about having the metal tubes kink. My only fear is that these are not insulated and will transfer heat to fuel with a possibility of causing a vapor lock. Another option would be the thin walled fuel lines made of urethane but these are mainly used in go carts and junior dragsters where they are much more exposed to air which keeps them cool. That is not the case here.
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Tirefriar



Joined: 18 Dec 2014
Posts: 381
Location: USA

PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2016 2:45 pm    Post subject: Re: YB10 fuel lines Reply with quote

Jonny B Bad wrote:
Hi George

Here is a photo of the underside of the tank on my YB8:

http://s102.photobucket.com/user/jbourne371/media/IMG_0428_zpsuufheatt.jpg.html?sort=3&o=3

and here is a picture of the two float bowl breather pipes brought into a tee and then taken into the air box:

http://s102.photobucket.com/user/jbourne371/media/IMG_0426_zpsvfmatqck.jpg.html?sort=3&o=2


Jonathan, did you have to raise the tank to accommodate the fuel filter?

My problem is compounded by the fact that I don't have a factory reserve switch. It was replaced with 2 out petcock. The outputs on the petcock are facing at an angle and away from bottom of the tank. This is driving me insane. I don't mind not having the electric reserve switch, just have to be mindful of the mileage but this makes running fuel lines to the filter a real mess.
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Tirefriar



Joined: 18 Dec 2014
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Location: USA

PostPosted: Sun Jun 05, 2016 6:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I need to clean the fuel cell on the YB10. What's the best approach - chemicals, method? The goal is to clean out all of he crud without damaging plastic tank.
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Tirefriar



Joined: 18 Dec 2014
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Location: USA

PostPosted: Mon Oct 23, 2017 5:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had the fuel tank cleaned and lined at the GTL in North Hollywood. Cost about $300 but its worth it as California gas is rich in ethanol. I have been dicking around with fuel plumbing and just about to give up. Here's where I am at:

- originally the bike came without fuel filters or the reserve switch. crud started to plug up the carbs on the left side, making the bike unrideable. When I pulled off the tank, I saw fuel plumbing was all over the place, but now I understand why. There are only so many options you can have on the YB10 with practically zero under the tank space.

- i got the bike with mismatched petcocks. had those replaced with acerbis with sock filters. I enlarged the holes at the bottom of the tank for the sock filters to just fit through. however, after the tank was lined, the lining made reduced the circumference to effectively block the socks from going in. option a) radius the openings for the socks to fit through but run the risk of cracking the liner and back for another $300 lining job or b) remove the socks from the petcocks, and just attach them to the bottom of the tank. I went with option B.

- I am running a Pingel two in one out filter so there is a dedicated line to each petcock. when I attach the plumbing, the line of the right side petcock (closest to the fuel pump) presses down pretty hard on the "out" line going into the fuel pump. Part of the problem there is that the in-let for the fuel pump is at an upward angle thus pushing the fuel line up into the tank.

The fuel pump looks to be the original mitsu unit. I am taking it to work tomorrow to bend the inlet down so when installed it will be more parallel with the engine case. In case I destroy the fuel pump (and even if I don't) is there a better (smaller and just as efficient) alternative to the stock fuel pump, an upgrade if you will?

i can't imagine being the only one with this problem. I am almost at wits end with this. If I won't find a solution in the next several weeks I will most likely take the bike to Jett Tuning http://www.jetttuning.com I was really hoping to get this resolved on my own as its not a very complicated situation, at least thats the way it appeared to me at a first glance.
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Joined: 22 Oct 2007
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Location: Stafford, UK

PostPosted: Mon Oct 23, 2017 6:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Not sure on a replacement pump. But think they are a fairly generic low pressure pulse pump.

As to the pipework on mine. There are 2 fuel taps on the tank, one a normal mechanical tap which is the normal tank, with 'off' just being there for when you remove the tank. The other tap is an electrically operated tap for reserve. Normally off / closed and when you switch to reserve the tap opens.

These 2 join at a T piece before the the fuel filter, and then on to the pump.

All the best

Katy
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