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carb cleaning
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Jonny B Bad



Joined: 05 Dec 2009
Posts: 412
Location: NE London

PostPosted: Tue Mar 14, 2017 3:29 pm    Post subject: SB6R Reply with quote

The mixture screw is adjusted solely by how many turns out from gently fully screwed in. The "O" ring does nothing but seal it into the body of the carb. What ever number of turns out it was when you removed it, put it back to the same when you install the new "O" ring.
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mk2sean



Joined: 04 Apr 2016
Posts: 36
Location: Scotland

PostPosted: Tue Mar 14, 2017 6:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thats great. Thats what I have done.
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Evilchicken0



Joined: 12 May 2010
Posts: 2810
Location: London

PostPosted: Tue Mar 14, 2017 7:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mk2sean wrote:
Should I be prepared to adjust the mix screw because of the new orings?


You mean the air screws ? probably not the seals are only sealing whereas the screw thread sets the amount of fuel passing it.
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brian



Joined: 22 Aug 2011
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Location: QLD, Australia

PostPosted: Tue Mar 14, 2017 10:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep I agree with the others... set them the same as they were.

Would be a good idea to synchronise the carbs once back on though. Can (and usually does) make a big difference to how it will run
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Jonny B Bad



Joined: 05 Dec 2009
Posts: 412
Location: NE London

PostPosted: Wed Mar 15, 2017 10:07 am    Post subject: SB6R Reply with quote

Brian is absolutely right, balancing after a strip down is definitely worthwhile and with this model everything is sufficiently accessible to make it a relatively easy job.
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mk2sean



Joined: 04 Apr 2016
Posts: 36
Location: Scotland

PostPosted: Wed Mar 15, 2017 10:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a set of balance gauges at the ready. Thing I am most concerned about is the float heights. I replaced the oring on the inlet post of the float. When I was setting the heights it seemed to make a difference to lining up the two parallel edges if I was pushing down slightly on the post. I applied the same pressure to each just enough to ensure the oring was out of sight.
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Evilchicken0



Joined: 12 May 2010
Posts: 2810
Location: London

PostPosted: Wed Mar 15, 2017 2:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I changed the same seals .... I noticed the floats didn't push into the bodies as easily and did seat down to the same place. Although the float bowl pushes them into the body .... so I just did them up Confused
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mk2sean



Joined: 04 Apr 2016
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Location: Scotland

PostPosted: Wed Mar 15, 2017 3:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thats reassuring to know. I will plod on. Got all new fuel lines to eliminate any contamination from them and a one in two out pingel filter inline.
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Evilchicken0



Joined: 12 May 2010
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Location: London

PostPosted: Wed Mar 15, 2017 6:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Remember the fuel lines go under the carbs and up to feed them otherwise the engine will fuel starve.

Is the two out pointing down or to the side ?
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mk2sean



Joined: 04 Apr 2016
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Location: Scotland

PostPosted: Wed Mar 15, 2017 7:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its not in yet but I suppose it could be either.
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mk2sean



Joined: 04 Apr 2016
Posts: 36
Location: Scotland

PostPosted: Wed Mar 15, 2017 7:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Regarding the fuel lines I take it I just angle the t pieces between 1 and 2 and 3 and 4 down wards and put the hoses on in that position. Just to confirm that fuel lines are not run under the carbs.
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mk2sean



Joined: 04 Apr 2016
Posts: 36
Location: Scotland

PostPosted: Thu Mar 16, 2017 12:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I take it the vacume gauges are attached to the small ports at the top of the carbs that have small rubber caps fitted. These take pressure from the ports on the discharge side of the carbs. Then adjust the three screws between carbs to even out the pressure.
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Evilchicken0



Joined: 12 May 2010
Posts: 2810
Location: London

PostPosted: Thu Mar 16, 2017 1:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fuel lines go forward from the fuel tap and left under the carbs then up into the fuel spigots.

I think the inlet stubs have a screw in them. You undo them and then screw in the adaptors for your gauges. You (usually) adjust 4 to match 3 then 1 and 2 finally do the left pair to the right - You adjust towards number 3.
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mk2sean



Joined: 04 Apr 2016
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 16, 2017 6:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Haha. I think I must have a different type of sb6r to you lot. My inlet stubs dont have any holes other than number two which has the vacume feed to the fuel pump. This has now been capped and the fuel pump removed.
Also I have now put the new fuel lines in. I have a single feed from the petcock into the airbox. Then it goes into the two out filter. I have it as vertical as I can get it. From here I have equal length lines run up to the air box outlets between cylinders 1 and 2 and also 3 and 4. There is no way I could run the lines under the carbs on the left hand side unless I was to make another hole in the airbox. I have tried to ensure that the lines are never higher than the outlet of the tank.
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brian



Joined: 22 Aug 2011
Posts: 2699
Location: QLD, Australia

PostPosted: Thu Mar 16, 2017 10:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mk2sean wrote:
I take it the vacume gauges are attached to the small ports at the top of the carbs that have small rubber caps fitted. These take pressure from the ports on the discharge side of the carbs. Then adjust the three screws between carbs to even out the pressure.


Yes, this is where I connect my gauges to. Adjust cylinders 1 & 2 then 3 & 4 and then the two pairs to each other.
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