Bimota Forum

[Evilchicken0]

There's specific product what I'm saying is add an engine flush to the oil, run it up and then drop the oil. I wouldn't normally do this on an oil change but because yours has stood it might be an idea.

You need to remove:
The radiator (take pictures of the hoses)
The downpipes (there's an additional mount onto the side stand bracket.
The 2 bottom mounts on the back of the gear box. They have the shock remote bracket and side stand bracket on them.
The chain from the rear sprocket
The carbs
The electrics - mark them with coloured zipties because the wire change colour

There are 2 top mounts to the head taht go through the middle of the frame, slacken them and the engine can swing forward and give you enough access to get at the clutch.

If you decide to take the engine out completely then you need to slacken the bimota billet top mount brakets before trying to put the (bloody heavy) lump back in.

Either way your going to love this little job
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Don't read everything you believe

[oily]

[brian]

[Evilchicken0]

Every addative maker makes engine flush .... type in into ebay
_________________
Don't read everything you believe

[brian]

Ok, thanks evil. I might give it a flush and new oil before i pull the cutch down. I hoping th ride it to a mate's place in 2 weeks time .

If i change the oil now and the clutch is still the same, i guess it's not going to hurt anything else by doing a 900 klm round trip? And i'll do the clutch job when i get home.
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'99 DB4 #104, '96 SB6 #1165, '94 DB2 J #652, '99 DB4 #088, '08 VTX1800, '93 ZXR750R M1, '95 ZXR750, '95 ZXR750 Race Bike, '94 CBR400rr NC29 Race Bike, '94 CB250, '49 BSA C10 250, '61 BSA A10 650, '89 ZXR750, '91 Ducati 851

[oily]

Well.........
shock and horror, this project has found it's way to the top of the list AND the clutch problem is halfway resolved.
Watch this space........

http://www.bimotaforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?p=7766#7766