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DB6 Fuel Lines cracked

 
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quikduk



Joined: 13 Aug 2016
Posts: 169
Location: Southern California, USA

PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2017 3:44 am    Post subject: DB6 Fuel Lines cracked Reply with quote

As I was checking the rear wiring re: my turn signal issue, I started taking more parts off and noticed that my fuel lines are cracked. This is likely due to the age but also likely to the crappy ethanol in our gasoline over here in California.

So here are my questions du jour.

1. Are these lines the same as the 1000cc Multistradas or are they Bimota specific?

2. Can I cut off the fuel clamps, change the hoses to some BMW silicone hose and install new crimp fuel clamps? If so, how do the lines come off the throttle bodies as I assume the tank ends are quick couplers?

3. Where do I find the tool and clamps for the new hoses?

4. Is there a specific pressure requirement for the hoses and clamps?

Thanks in advance.
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DB1RS2R



Joined: 21 Feb 2013
Posts: 31
Location: Oakland, California

PostPosted: Thu Dec 28, 2017 2:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello,

1. I don't know this bike specifically but I imagine all the fuel lines are 8 mm (5/16") like most fuel injected European motorcycles.

2. I like to spread the squeeze style clamps open with an awl versus cutting them. I don't think anyone is using silicone fuel lines. I would install 13-14 mm screw type clamps with edges that are flared up so they don't cut into the fuel line when tight.

If your bike has quick disconnects, I highly recommend replacing any plastic male fittings with brass fittings as they tend to snap at the groove and spray large amounts of fuel everywhere. Females are fine (oh, they are indeed!).

Here's a website selling the proper fittings at excellent prices with Viton o-rings that can handle our California ethanol gasoline:

http://quickcouplings.net/osc/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=Viton&osCsid=b445f82e338d73a6b1d3b6d932108ddd&x=0&y=0

3. You can find the clamps and pliers online after some searching but I wouldn't bother. They're fast on the assembly line but reusable clamps are convenient.

4. Buy fuel line/hose at your local auto parts store. Just make sure it's hose for fuel injected vehicles (good for about 100-150 psi) not hose for carbureted vehicles. If any hose stays submerged in fuel, that's a different story and the hose is fairly expensive.

Let me know if you need clarification. Good luck!

Kind regards,
Adam
_________________
'86 Bimota DB1R
'62 Ducati 250
'69 Laverda 750 GT
'07 Piaggio MP3 250ie
'71 Jaguar E-Type FHC 4.2
Previous Bimota: '87 YB5
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vort28



Joined: 22 Mar 2010
Posts: 1855
Location: Northwest , UK

PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2018 5:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My DB7 lines went, looked for silicon ones but could not find fuel resistant ones. Ended up with replacing like for like as on the DB7 the clearance to tank etc was an issue so had to ensure OD was the same as originals.
As suggested the clamps can be sprung off, again I replaced with crimp ones due to clearance..
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quikduk



Joined: 13 Aug 2016
Posts: 169
Location: Southern California, USA

PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2018 10:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well guys, as you can see from the delays in my posts...I have been swamped with work at work. Confused

I may be actually able to work on the DB6 this weekend...after my chores. I will look further at these fuel lines and connections. I have 5/16" fuel injected hose that should work as well as the euro-type solid adjustable band clamps in case I don't install new squeeze clamps.

I will also look at the type of fuel quick connect fittings if present so I can see what I need to convert to the metal/Viton combination listed above.

I'll post results and maybe some pics if I can get time to get a new photo hosting site login so I can move all of my photo/posting histories from P-O-S-Bucket.

Regards to all.
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quikduk



Joined: 13 Aug 2016
Posts: 169
Location: Southern California, USA

PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2018 12:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So about 2 weekends ago, maybe 3...I changed out the fuel lines. What a PITA. I had to take far more off the bike than I should have. The rear tank bracket, once loosened, didn't allow for the tank removal until I undid the two Allen (hex) screws into the billet aluminum block around the ignition switch. Then and only then could I pull the tank. Maybe the tank has swelled but would it have killed Bimota to weld in a hinge point on this bracket???

Anyway, I took the tank off, then the airbox (another PITA)...I really miss my FCR flatslides...

I used new reinforced 5/16" fuel line which fit the dimensions of the fuel pipe connections perfectly. I also used euro solid worm drive fuel line clamps instead of the band clamps for ease of future (Hah!) removal.
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quikduk



Joined: 13 Aug 2016
Posts: 169
Location: Southern California, USA

PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2018 12:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would have preferred the metric fuel line which has a thinner wall but none was available at my location when I was working on the DB6...and I forgot to stop by the BMW dealer to see what they had in stock. The 5/16" line is a bit thicker overall so fitting the two lines in the pre-molded crevasse of the airbox/crankcase vent area was tough.

It was really tough putting everything back together too as there is not much space for anything on this bike. Everything works and no leaks so at least that is good.

Now I am on to the fork rebuild.
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2bims



Joined: 03 Apr 2010
Posts: 5332

PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2018 8:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes indeed....things are mighty tight and packed in on the DB6...my personal hate is the battery...and its terminals....and the metalplate fixed infront of it....Part of the nature of a "naked"....with bimota trying to hide everything....DB5 with its fairing is Far far easier to work on...as they slapped a lot of residual parts on other brackets behind the fairings

Just a quick note...and only because someone on here told me so......When removing the tank.....yup...riders seat pad off first.....then remove the 3 bolts that are fitted thru the industrial SS formed bracket.....which itself has 4 fixings......OK...so tank is now loose.....the front bracket around the ignition barrel are mere locating pins that push into the front of the tank......The one...well actually 2 things stopping the tank being lifted off...are the drain hose nipples on the back rear section of the tank......simply unbolt those...eh voila.....dont worry about leaks...they are both drain holes for the filler cap....there are internal drain lines in the tank....one is for the outer ring of the filler cap to collect rain and water when being washed and exit it through the cap base into a hose and out the back thru a drain hose...the other is for "overfill" of fuel that sits in the fuel cap base......Once those 2 are removed...the rear of the tank lifts clear without having touched that hefty bracket or even loosened it off...

I hope you checked the integrity of the air filter once the tank was off???
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2bims



Joined: 03 Apr 2010
Posts: 5332

PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2018 8:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you sort out your rear light/indicator issue not working something???
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