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YB7 rear sprocket?
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Jgmansfield



Joined: 11 Aug 2017
Posts: 13
Location: NYC

PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2018 5:32 am    Post subject: YB7 rear sprocket? Reply with quote

Do any of you guys know what bolt pattern or what rear sprocket will fit on the YB7? My thought was it was probably off an FZR400, I have no way of knowing.
What a great little bike this is!
James
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Bimota YB7
748R
NSR250
NSR500 Rothmans (rep)
YZR500 Norik Abe (rep)
YZR500 Max Biaggi (rep)
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2bims



Joined: 03 Apr 2010
Posts: 7289

PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2018 10:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

AFAM used to be my go to place...but I see their dropdown menu now excludes Bimota..Hhmm

https://www.afam.com/en/service-2/kit-configurator-afam/

A lot of Sprocket manufacturers will make bespoke sprockets...and normally for only say 20% more than a standard sprocket....I presume the wheels on your bike are Bimota branded Oscom white 3 spoke wheels? As in bespoke to Bimota and not Yamaha...
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2bims



Joined: 03 Apr 2010
Posts: 7289

PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2018 10:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hopefully Laminator will chime in or others....YB7 owners.....all came with same rear wheels....I have a good used AFAM rear alloy sprocket spare but not sure if it would fit....39 tooth...AFAM code 93606...check yours.....6 hole bolt pattern...hole sizes...10mm.....centre to centre max 100mm across centre...middle hole 80mm dia
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laminator



Joined: 27 Oct 2007
Posts: 320
Location: Midlands

PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2018 6:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi.


I've got this spare. It's used, from Nigels YB7, so not in new condition. Could be a good idea to send it to a sprocket manufacturer to get one made (without having to remove yours) ?



The sprockets are Z/41. They have a five hole bolt pattern.

Centre - 80mm DIA, 0.5mm 45 degree chamfer both sides
Mounting holes (5 off) - 10mm DIA on a PCD of 100mm (50mm Rad)
Outer holes (12 off) - 24mm DIA on a PCD of 154mm (77mm Rad) 0.5mm 45 degree chamfer both sides
Thickness - 6mm
Material - Alloy

I'm actually in the process of 3D solid modelling my YB7.






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Jgmansfield



Joined: 11 Aug 2017
Posts: 13
Location: NYC

PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2018 4:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, what’s a response!
I’m trying to work out what size sprocket I need in your 3-D modeling your bike!
I get a feeling I came to the right place…
I’m knew the Bimota thing, I wanted a YB7 since I saw one in Padgets in Batley in 1987or 1988, I was 17. It had a velvet rope around it with a sign that said DO NOT TOUCH, which just made you want to touch even more.
I picked mine up on Thursday last week, Delivered by Uship from Chicago to New York, the end of a very rewarding 30 year wait. What are cracking little bike, and what a fantastic noise it makes!
I’m totally hooked, the thing is awesome. I would like to go up two maybe three teeth on the back and give it a bit more lift in the first three gears, I don’t really care about top speed, this is a road bike and 100+ Is fast enough for me on back roads.
Thank you all for the super useful replies, I really appreciate it.
Any top tips for the bike?
Brakes, suspension?
Cooling??
Thing gets mad hot in traffic, bit alarming but it stops at the red and comes down quickly, any suggestions on keeping it cooler?
Thanks,
James
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YZR500 Norik Abe (rep)
YZR500 Max Biaggi (rep)
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2bims



Joined: 03 Apr 2010
Posts: 7289

PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2018 8:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You've probably come to "the only place" for Bimotas...but fortunately its also the right place....

There is that new coolant for bikes and cars...Evans waterless coolant....more info and its properties and benefits here

https://www.evanscoolant.com/vehicle-types/powersports/

I've heard good reports and its been on a few shows...but not tried it myself

Brakes? Already it has Brembo cast iron full floaters up front which are up to todays standards if not beyond them.....not now fitted to most bikes due to cost...basic stainless steel discs being cheaper.

Presumably it has the standard Yamaha black coffin pot master on the front brake???...Some people upgrade that unit to Brembo gold series with remote reservoir or radial brembo units...all depends if you like the pull...find it too hard...or want lighter pull with same bite....How fresh are the brake lines/Brake fluid?

Presumably it still has its twin 4-pot black brembo calipers up front?.....if changing the pads try to stick to brembo and dont go for red black plated "race compound"....as they will eat your discs.....and those discs are VERY hard to find NewOldStock of.....deep dish alloy rotor...odd size diameter...cast iron brembos....

Nice review of the YB7 here....and this website (which has pretty much every Motorbike ever made on it)...hails from Washington DC...and the cheeky scamps lead their article with a snatched photo of Laminators very own actual YB7.....tch tch

http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/bimota/bimota_yb7%2088.htm
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Bud977



Joined: 03 Mar 2013
Posts: 525
Location: Sydney

PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2018 10:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have cooling problems, generally the best thing to do these days is to replace the radiator with a Chinkster one from eBay. Even if they are no bigger, a new radiator helps a lot.

There are for and against opinions on Evans Waterless coolant. It has a higher boiling point, but it also significantly increases the running temperature of the engine which is not a good thing.
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2bims



Joined: 03 Apr 2010
Posts: 7289

PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2018 11:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Evidently the website doesnt highlight issues...and I get it has a higher boiling point so less prone to expansion and blowing the rad cap....but overheating the engine more? is that glycol retains heat better than water and thus higher temp fluid re-enters after exiting the rad keeping the engine less cooled/hotter than water does?


I dont know...but like to think I'm never to old to be educated....evidently no water means less chance of freezing...but not really an issue in a lot of countries....glycols slippy yeh....so no running in race bikes in case of spillage on the track
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brian



Joined: 22 Aug 2011
Posts: 3766
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2018 1:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There’s quite a few different non-glycol ‘race’ coolants on the market now Wink
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brian



Joined: 22 Aug 2011
Posts: 3766
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2018 1:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just can’t bear to run water only in any engine... corrosion is like cancer
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'99 DB4 #104, '96 SB6 #1165, '94 DB2 J #652, '99 DB4 #088, '08 VTX1800, '93 ZXR750R M1, '95 ZXR750, '95 ZXR750 Race Bike, '94 CBR400rr NC29 Race Bike, '94 CB250, '49 BSA C10 250, '61 BSA A10 650, '89 ZXR750, '91 Ducati 851
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Jgmansfield



Joined: 11 Aug 2017
Posts: 13
Location: NYC

PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2018 3:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

How do you control when and how long the fan comes on for?
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YZR500 Norik Abe (rep)
YZR500 Max Biaggi (rep)
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who



Joined: 10 Nov 2010
Posts: 402
Location: Melbourne Australia

PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2018 8:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

these motors are designed to run hot!

Yamaha recommend 50-50 water and a good quality glycol with "anti corrosion" inhibitors for aluminium engine.

The red toyota stuff is sensational.

Never put tap water into your engine... of anysort. Distilled, or demineralised only. Buy it at the supermarket for next to nothing, same goes with batteries btw.

There are products if you are road racing like water wetter, which help the cooling effect immensely, and are legal at least here in Australia.

The fan switches on the larger FZ750 through to YZF1000 cut in at 107 degrees C. Make sure you don't have a dodgy 20 year old radiator cap on the bike?

Check (when cold) that the rubber that seals the cap to the radiator neck is in good condition. Or just replace it anyway. Parts like these are consumables, including thermostats.

Some people who are not comfortable with Yamaha spec temp settings wire in manual override switches for the fans, and switch them on at 80 or so degrees.

The funny thing is the thermostat doesn't completely open until water temp reaches 95 degrees.

Make sure all parts are in good shape, and trust Yamaha!

Water under pressure boils at a much higher temp. Yamaha knows best!
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stockcar



Joined: 07 Apr 2011
Posts: 836
Location: in the shadow of the "angel"

PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2018 8:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

do NOT in any circumstances use "waterless coolants" sure fire recipe for having over heating / head gasket issues and potential for far worse ........you may as well save your hard earned and fill the system with concentrated a/freeze at a 1/10th of the price if you were so inclined / in general terms it doesn't dissipate the heat correctly and so doesn't act as a "coolant"

ultimately about the best "coolant" is water but for obvious reasons in iron / ali engines it simply causes corrosion

a blanket "mix 50/50" statement doesn't cover it either as certain manufacturers use different strength a/freeze concentrate (our favoured one you use 1/3 a/freeze to 2/3 water to achieve a mix suitable for approx -25deg / no issues for the UK but may not suit colder climates)
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who



Joined: 10 Nov 2010
Posts: 402
Location: Melbourne Australia

PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2018 9:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

stockcar wrote:

a blanket "mix 50/50" statement doesn't cover it either as certain manufacturers use different strength


Hi Stockcar, I agree with most of what you say, but when it comes to Yamaha...You must obey...lol.

I fit 1.3 kg/cm caps to my bikes

Don't read everything you believe.

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stockcar



Joined: 07 Apr 2011
Posts: 836
Location: in the shadow of the "angel"

PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2018 9:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

that would apply if you use Yamaha'a recommend but they can't suggest that as a "one size fits all" and i would be fairly sure that isn't what they intend in the same way that different tyre makers have slightly differing requirements
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