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philfingers
Joined: 05 Sep 2009
Posts: 337
Location: Bimota Capital of the UK, Kidderminster
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 Posted: Mon May 09, 2011 10:29 am Post subject: changing wheel bearings in Anterra's |
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When I had my tyres fitted last year I had a quick attempt at fitting new bearings. I've never struggled with wheel bearings in the past. usually you knock the internal spacer tube aside, insert your favourite old screwdriver/bodger and a swift wack with a hammer on the inside face and they're out.
Only I didnt seem to be able to get access to an inside edge of the bearing.
Anyone else changed bearings on Anterra's. Any tips?
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03 YB11, 03 Aprilia RSVR Edwards, 94 Ducati Superlight III, 95 Honda NC30, 04 Ducati 999S, 91 kawasaki KR1-S C2, 91 Ducati 851 USD Strada, 89 ZXR750H1, 90 ZXR400H1, 205 16v Rally Car, A6 2.7TDI Avant, STM R1 engined Phoenix |
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Evilchicken0
Joined: 12 May 2010
Posts: 2996
Location: London
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| Posted: Mon May 09, 2011 1:40 pm Post subject: |
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Antera's .... hmmm ... heavy wheels
Might be a very good excuse to change the wheels
Seems obvious but some wheels the internal spacer is wider at one end than the other. heating the wheel helps too.
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deebee4
Joined: 08 Jan 2011
Posts: 266
Location: Netherlands
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| Posted: Mon May 09, 2011 8:05 pm Post subject: Re: changing wheel bearings in Anterra's |
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| philfingers wrote: |
When I had my tyres fitted last year I had a quick attempt at fitting new bearings. I've never struggled with wheel bearings in the past. usually you knock the internal spacer tube aside, insert your favourite old screwdriver/bodger and a swift wack with a hammer on the inside face and they're out.
Only I didnt seem to be able to get access to an inside edge of the bearing.
Anyone else changed bearings on Anterra's. Any tips? |
You need a bearing extractor that's clamped inside the bearing from the outside. Then with a longer dowel from the otherside you can knock them out. Alternatively a large suitable expansion bolt (that normally goes into brick walls) can be used as bearing extractor.
The internal spacers have a ring around them to prevent misplacement.
Don't use brute force to hammer the bearings out, hammer precisely with a copper headed hammer. Damage to the bearing orifices is hard to restore. Before refitting put the new bearings in the deep freeze, clean out the bearing orifices thoroughly and use a heat gun to warm the wheel up evenly. Just enough to keep your hands on them. Make sure you start with the smaller bearing (front wheel, LH side) or else the spacer won't go in anymore.
Use a suitable driver (I most of the times use a socket that's just a mm less in diameter that the bearing outer ring) and only use force on the outer ring. Work fast enough before things start to cool down/heat up and the bearing gets stuck crooked.....
Make 100% sure the bearings are seated all the way and that they rotate freely.
Best to use the 2RSH spec bearings instead of the 2RS bearing. Better water resistant and grease retaining.
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philfingers
Joined: 05 Sep 2009
Posts: 337
Location: Bimota Capital of the UK, Kidderminster
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| Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 12:07 am Post subject: |
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sounds good thanks for the tips. I'll give it a go sometime
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03 YB11, 03 Aprilia RSVR Edwards, 94 Ducati Superlight III, 95 Honda NC30, 04 Ducati 999S, 91 kawasaki KR1-S C2, 91 Ducati 851 USD Strada, 89 ZXR750H1, 90 ZXR400H1, 205 16v Rally Car, A6 2.7TDI Avant, STM R1 engined Phoenix |
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