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SB6 - back to work
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sb6rdaz



Joined: 23 Nov 2010
Posts: 124
Location: Burton-upon-Trent

PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 5:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gotta ask, why 122.5 main jets? They're way too small for the GSXR1100W motor, typically they need 140's at least when running them on my Dyno. No need to stagger them tho, I ran my 6R with 4 Lambda sensors, 1 in each downpipe, and they all were so close as not to need any difference at all.
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Mako



Joined: 17 Dec 2011
Posts: 141
Location: Reggio Emilia, Italy

PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 8:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sb6rdaz wrote:
Gotta ask, why 122.5 main jets? They're way too small for the GSXR1100W motor, typically they need 140's at least when running them on my Dyno. No need to stagger them tho, I ran my 6R with 4 Lambda sensors, 1 in each downpipe, and they all were so close as not to need any difference at all.


because I fel the bike running not fine. with black spark plugs and starting with no choke even in winter...
so I read this

http://www.bimotaforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?p=16131&sid=9f2098a8bc44a0a7499be8ef58727b93

and Vince was feeling good with 122... then

but I think you and Oily are right... could be too lean.
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sb6rdaz



Joined: 23 Nov 2010
Posts: 124
Location: Burton-upon-Trent

PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 8:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

But they are Dynojet 122's that are refered to, not Mikuni 122.5's, the sizes do not equate to the same thing at all. That said, Dynojet 122 or Mikuni 122.5, both are too small to fuel the SB6 anything like effectively. They are also being used with Dynojet needles too, which can alter the main jet needed too by quite a margin.
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CBar



Joined: 05 Jan 2010
Posts: 142
Location: Texas

PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 9:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Suzuki manual shows '94 models in certain countries having smaller jets on #2 and #3. Later years show larger jets for 2 and 3 compared to 1 and 4. Bimota installed larger jets than Suzuki.
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sb6rdaz



Joined: 23 Nov 2010
Posts: 124
Location: Burton-upon-Trent

PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 10:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Suzuki manual holds little relevance when considering jetting and carburation, as the airbox and exhaust are very different when installed in the Bimota. And I'd suspect that Bimota maybe jetted them with an ounce of a safety factor in there, so the bike would fuel acceptably in all markets, so wherever in the world it was shipped to, running whatever fuel, with all the other variables too thrown in. That is still very evident on current bikes.

When on good quality but regular UK pump fuel, the bikes I have had on the dyno have all benefitted from a downsize in main jet.

I also looked into the size differential across the cylinders, and found them to run very close to one another, my 6R runs the same main jet size across all 4 cylinders, so the cooling of the water cooled 1100 engine seems to be steady across all 4 cylinders. Usually the size differential is to allow for the centre 2 cylinders running hotter, but in the engine in question there was no such need at all. Cetainly a lot of vee twins run different fuelling for that exact reason.
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Mako



Joined: 17 Dec 2011
Posts: 141
Location: Reggio Emilia, Italy

PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2012 12:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As suggested I changed the order at Wemoto.

today I was checking float heights and I've noticed some float needle pin was stuck.
In a bath of WD40, a gym work to the pin with a little screwdriver (some rusty crap coming out from the pin) and now they are ok again

a diaphragm is slightly bent on the flunnel... but I guess it would work as it is not gummy
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Mako



Joined: 17 Dec 2011
Posts: 141
Location: Reggio Emilia, Italy

PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2012 6:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

fixed the needle pins I've noticed a broken float. Not the float itself but the retaining piece on the choke system side:

broken:




good one:




I'm wondering if I could fix (the missing piece only use the bowl to let the float in place) or try to find a new one..

on Ronayers I found two different part codes for the float... and both very expensive... anyone knows the correct one?
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oily



Joined: 05 Apr 2008
Posts: 4788
Location: worcestershire

PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2012 6:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

..I may have a spare if you need it Wink
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Mako



Joined: 17 Dec 2011
Posts: 141
Location: Reggio Emilia, Italy

PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2012 6:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

oily wrote:
..I may have a spare if you need it Wink


I'm no more scared now!

You've got a PM Very Happy
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oily



Joined: 05 Apr 2008
Posts: 4788
Location: worcestershire

PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2012 6:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mako wrote:
oily wrote:
..I may have a spare if you need it Wink


I'm no more scared now!

You've got a PM Very Happy


Back at ya Wink
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Mako



Joined: 17 Dec 2011
Posts: 141
Location: Reggio Emilia, Italy

PostPosted: Sat Nov 03, 2012 6:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mako wrote:
ah... english humor Very Happy

today I bought 4 122.5 main jets from Wemoto, some oring, a spare hydrostop as I can't find the OEM rear brake switch... and I'm waiting for

http://www.oldtimer-teileshop.de/simson/simson-schikra/motorgetriebe-und-antriebsteile/fuellstandgeber-paioli-2157105.html

as it seems the correct reserve switch...ordered 20 days ago; they accepted order and payment so I guess I should receive something Rolling Eyes


seller has answered my email ... package sent Yesterday... we'll see how it fits... crossed fingers
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Mako



Joined: 17 Dec 2011
Posts: 141
Location: Reggio Emilia, Italy

PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 12:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cooling system.

changed water pump cover, new Samco Hoses, will clean thermostat but not omitt it as in first istance, cleaned radiator an metal pipes.
The last thing I would like to do while I have the engine off the bike is to check, change the radiator cap.

As maybe you remember, my SB6 overheated quite fast... and one of the causes could be a faulty radiator cap. I haven't the proper radiator cap checking tool, but I think It would not be a bad Idea to replace with a new one:



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

It is a 0.9 bar one and I guess it's an easy to find spare part...

anyone knows where it comes from (other bikes, maybe cars....)?
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oily



Joined: 05 Apr 2008
Posts: 4788
Location: worcestershire

PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 8:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Marco...please take a picture of slightly further back on the engine, in particular, the metal cooling pipe.
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Mako



Joined: 17 Dec 2011
Posts: 141
Location: Reggio Emilia, Italy

PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 7:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

oily wrote:
Marco...please take a picture of slightly further back on the engine, in particular, the metal cooling pipe.


...that was a pre-work photo, only to show the radiator cap. I will take some new one.

Yesterday I've checked "by mouth" the cap sealing before and after cleaning: I think that was the main cause of overheating.
The allu surface shown in the photo below was very dirty and covered by crap... i could pull and push air from the thowards rad outlet flunnel.





cleaned with a soft Dremel brush and now it seems to work : no pushing air just pulling. (I know I have to clean better Very Happy )

I think the system didn't reach a working pressure as the cap was not sealing.

the alluminium is a bit corroded so I look for a scooter inlet with same sizes and outlet diameter, and same pressure calibration
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Evilchicken0



Joined: 12 May 2010
Posts: 2996
Location: London

PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 1:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think you should get some autosol on it Razz
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