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brian
Joined: 22 Aug 2011
Posts: 3790
Location: Australia
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 Posted: Wed Oct 30, 2013 10:52 pm Post subject: |
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Or you could just lean it on the fence.
Steve, i hope that second pic is an OLD one. Otherwise... those oil cooler hose ends need a polish my friend. Oops, hope i haven't set off another OCD attack 
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'99 DB4 #104, '96 SB6 #1165, '94 DB2 J #652, '99 DB4 #088, '08 VTX1800, '93 ZXR750R M1, '95 ZXR750, '95 ZXR750 Race Bike, '94 CBR400rr NC29 Race Bike, '94 CB250, '49 BSA C10 250, '61 BSA A10 650, '89 ZXR750, '91 Ducati 851 |
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2bims
Joined: 03 Apr 2010
Posts: 7314
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| Posted: Wed Oct 30, 2013 10:56 pm Post subject: |
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Dont worry Brian...it was an "in=between" photo...ones on the right first stage of clean, on left no stage of clean (of 4 stage process) and the rusty bolts holding the Oil coller are also now replaced...so now go wash that mouth out with soap and water...oh the disgrace of such an assumption...  |
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brian
Joined: 22 Aug 2011
Posts: 3790
Location: Australia
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| Posted: Wed Oct 30, 2013 11:02 pm Post subject: |
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Phew, that's a releif. Thought you might have been slipping in your old age. Silly me, should have known better.
Mouth suitably washed out with soap now
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'99 DB4 #104, '96 SB6 #1165, '94 DB2 J #652, '99 DB4 #088, '08 VTX1800, '93 ZXR750R M1, '95 ZXR750, '95 ZXR750 Race Bike, '94 CBR400rr NC29 Race Bike, '94 CB250, '49 BSA C10 250, '61 BSA A10 650, '89 ZXR750, '91 Ducati 851 |
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Hursty
Joined: 29 Aug 2012
Posts: 319
Location: New Zealand
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| Posted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 3:17 am Post subject: |
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when I first picked her up 
After the ride height and spring upgrade it was too risky without the block of wood
So it got the mod
No more worries about it falling over and its more comfy to ride without the block of wood in my jacket
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Hursty from kiwi land  |
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brian
Joined: 22 Aug 2011
Posts: 3790
Location: Australia
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| Posted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 4:23 am Post subject: |
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Very nice Hursty. How much longer than the original is it? Good job!
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'99 DB4 #104, '96 SB6 #1165, '94 DB2 J #652, '99 DB4 #088, '08 VTX1800, '93 ZXR750R M1, '95 ZXR750, '95 ZXR750 Race Bike, '94 CBR400rr NC29 Race Bike, '94 CB250, '49 BSA C10 250, '61 BSA A10 650, '89 ZXR750, '91 Ducati 851 |
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2bims
Joined: 03 Apr 2010
Posts: 7314
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| Posted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 8:08 am Post subject: |
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| brian wrote: |
| Very nice Hursty. How much longer than the original is it? Good job! |
I think you'd be better asking his wife/girlfriend/boyfriend (for political correctness)...men are know to exaggerate when it comes to "length"..... |
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Evilchicken0
Joined: 12 May 2010
Posts: 2996
Location: London
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Hursty
Joined: 29 Aug 2012
Posts: 319
Location: New Zealand
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| Posted: Fri Nov 01, 2013 2:51 am Post subject: |
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brian wrote:
Very nice Hursty. How much longer than the original is it? |
About the length of a block of wood
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Hursty from kiwi land |
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bimota_rider
Joined: 06 Jul 2013
Posts: 213
Location: Utah, USA
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| Posted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 8:26 pm Post subject: |
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What happens to the side stand is that the whole assembly rotates forward. and the stand moves way from perpendicular. The farther from perpendicular it moves forward the lower the bike sits and the lean increases.
My fix was to loosen the rear engine mount bolt, rotate the side stand assembly rearward and tighten it all back up. I set it so the side stand hits it stop at about 6:30 -7:00 0'clock (a bit straight up , but it works well.) The trick is to get the rear engine mount through bolt wicked tight, so the assembly doesn't rotate forward again. I also simply welded a few button welds on the stopper, so the stand doesn't slide so far forward on itself. A total of about 1/4 inch of weld material did the trick for me.
I also carry a small piece of plastic (it fits in my rear pocket) to put down on any hot blacktop, to stop the sinking stand syndrome....
This is a "super tight budget" fix and in no way is as cool as the fixes I see here. But, when you're a "poor--boy" like me, sometimes you have to make due.......
.
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'98 Bimota SB6R #000016 "Sweet 16"
Built 5/97
2014 Suzuki Hayabusa
2001 BMW R1100S
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Evilchicken0
Joined: 12 May 2010
Posts: 2996
Location: London
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| Posted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 10:18 pm Post subject: |
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| bimota_rider wrote: |
What happens to the side stand is that the whole assembly rotates forward. and the stand moves way from perpendicular. The farther from perpendicular it moves forward the lower the bike sits and the lean increases.
My fix was to loosen the rear engine mount bolt, rotate the side stand assembly rearward and tighten it all back up. I set it so the side stand hits it stop at about 6:30 -7:00 0'clock (a bit straight up , but it works well.) The trick is to get the rear engine mount through bolt wicked tight, so the assembly doesn't rotate forward again. I also simply welded a few button welds on the stopper, so the stand doesn't slide so far forward on itself. A total of about 1/4 inch of weld material did the trick for me.
I also carry a small piece of plastic (it fits in my rear pocket) to put down on any hot blacktop, to stop the sinking stand syndrome....
This is a "super tight budget" fix and in no way is as cool as the fixes I see here. But, when you're a "poor--boy" like me, sometimes you have to make due....... |
Ok - I think what's happened is the locating bolt housing on the side stand mount has broken. It bolts into the exhuast pipe, you can see the braket with captive nut in this picture
Have a look at you bike and chances are you'll find the bolt still in the pipe, mine looked like it had been welded before I don't know if that was standard or not.
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bimota_rider
Joined: 06 Jul 2013
Posts: 213
Location: Utah, USA
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| Posted: Mon Nov 04, 2013 6:37 pm Post subject: |
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Evil Chicken writes:
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| Have a look at you bike and chances are you'll find the bolt still in the pipe, mine looked like it had been welded before I don't know if that was standard or not. |
I see what you are speaking of. The locating bolt is intact. The rotation of the side-stand mount assembly will slightly move the rear of your header pipe upward a tad (that is a "metric" tad) ,but it does allow you to rotate the assembly to improve the angle of the side-stand to near vertical and causes your bikes to stand up straighter.....That with the addition of a few strategically placed mig-weld buttons, helped me a bunch.
....To quote my Mom, "Sit up straight or you'll stay that way!!!" LOL
Here is the end result a much straighter angle, hence a more upright parked angle = no more "mean-lean" and peace of mind if I leave my bike parked somewhere. In my garage, I generally put her up on the rear stand.
p.s. Don't panic, the fluid in the pic is snow melt from the snow-blower parked next to the bike.  We got hit by a little snow storm yesterday.
.
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'98 Bimota SB6R #000016 "Sweet 16"
Built 5/97
2014 Suzuki Hayabusa
2001 BMW R1100S
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Evilchicken0
Joined: 12 May 2010
Posts: 2996
Location: London
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| Posted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 2:16 pm Post subject: |
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I don't remember there being any movement once the engine was in and pipes were on but then I could be wrong.
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bimota_rider
Joined: 06 Jul 2013
Posts: 213
Location: Utah, USA
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| Posted: Wed Nov 06, 2013 1:15 am Post subject: |
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A very slight upward and very slight radius rearward can be achieved, even more so if you loosen the headers a bit. 
The most results were achieved by welding some "mig-dots" at the side-stand stop area to stop the forward rotation of the stand on its pivot point, earlier than normal.
I don't know. I just saw this discussion and thought I might throw out there how I solved my "mean - lean," because it bothered me for years and now it is solved......in my, "jury-rig" engineering, kind of way.
I did auto collision, body and frame repair, for 30 years and in that time, I learned the fine art of improvisation.......
.
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'98 Bimota SB6R #000016 "Sweet 16"
Built 5/97
2014 Suzuki Hayabusa
2001 BMW R1100S
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