Bimota Forum

[2bims]

Simple enough process to remove, loosen both rear indicators and let them flop down, as they get in the way of swinging the end cans around to remove. Remove ride side fairing, you should find the fairing bolts are titanium and weigh nothing...meant I now keep an extra special eye on them that they dont come loose and I lose any, Disconnect front built in indicator, that has a nice clip rather than 2 bullet connectors. Undo the sensor, it will wind itself around so when refitting the front lambda sensor count when you unwound and wind it that many times in opposite direction when refitting to stop cables from twisting.
Then take all spring clips off the connectors, both end cans nicely swing out of the side and can be lifted out and away. Now undo the front header nuts and one connecting bolt at rear of engine right side, SS bracket with welded tange on the pipe and this falls away with a swing from the rear x piece connector.
Now the x piece connector can be twisted and lifted away, gaining access to rear header connectors to cylinder head....I took photos of the X piece exact position as its tight for space and correct orientation to clear the rear shock and be in the right place for connecting the end cans so they align properly to the tail unit.

With me so far? Then refit in reverse order. Strangely my new pipes came with lambda sensor threaded bosses on both front and rear header, although theres only one lambda sensor...Thus I had to source 2 new blanking threaded plugs (one for Db5 and one for Db6) just go on ebay and search for lambda sensor blanking plugs...generic for all sensors I found....Then theres the 2 brass threaded allen key plugs, one in each header...My new pipes came without these so just fiited the old ones in place...Make sure you properly tighten the new lambda sensor plugs...first run I had in feverish anticipation to start it up and run it...I encountered a sudden change in exhaust note on my retunr journey, as one plug had worked loose and made its successful bid for freedom...sounded like one cylinder was out....Mind you I was triying to keep up with my friend on my Jooly Moto vdue...unsucessfully that is....

Oh the exhaust flang collars are captive on the pipes, with no internal collats so the new pipes will have these rattling around as they are fitted before the ends are welded on...Dont overly tighten them, as they will bend...not overly robust....Hope this helps come the time

[SpikeC]

Thanks for the tutorial! I have replaced the exhaust systems on a couple of BMWs and a few other bikes and I have done the lambda probe dance a couple of times. I have a stainless plug coming for the vertical pipe, so that is covered.
I like how easy it is to remove the body panels from these bikes. It appears that mine came with SS screws instead of ti, so now you have me shopping for some ti ones! I found some with 14mm diameter heads, only problem is they are over 14 bucks a pop!
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Spike C.
Portland, Oregon, USA
2008 Bimota DB5R
1965 Triumph T100SC

[2bims]

SS Bolts and not titanium?? Oh my....never mind...and yeh expensive, wouldnt buy them myselves over ally ones at a fraction of the price....just way too dear....Hard to say what should be fitted as Bimota "constant development" means each bike can be different , all depends what they had left lying around on the day normally. Also my bike was purchased from a nice man who lived 100 yeards from the factory and was friends with the CEO at the time...so this bike and the DB6R that also came from him had special little bits here and there that other bikes dont have....The Db6R is a differet colour deeper red than a standard 6, etc etc...The easy panel removal is a joy with the 5...especially compared to previous models...

[SpikeC]

I am now ready to install the new pipes. These ones came with the brass plugs! I have some high temp copper gasket maker that I plan to use on the rear cylinder lambda plug, everything else seems to be ready to go!
I paid what looks like 333 Euros delivered to my front porch, assuming that my conversion dealie is accurate!
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Spike C.
Portland, Oregon, USA
2008 Bimota DB5R
1965 Triumph T100SC

[SpikeC]

Speaking of pipes, my bike has a heat shield on the vertical cylinder, and the "competition pipes" do not have one. The tubing looks pretty similar everywhere else. I am wondering if the existing rear pipe will fit the new splitter, since there is no lambda probe on that pipe it seems like there is no point in replacing it if they are not being coated.
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Spike C.
Portland, Oregon, USA
2008 Bimota DB5R
1965 Triumph T100SC

[2bims]

You've done well there on price Spike....less than I paid...and I had to re-use my brass plugs from the old system as the new ones didnt come with any.

Not a bad idea to re-use the rear cylinder header, as the new systems as you say dont come with that one heat shield....this pipe I think is exactly the same...the only one that could be re-used as the other pieces have cats in them...

Not so sure that that heat shield does that much...I find the end can front pipes are the ones giving off all the heat...that is noticeable most on the left leg when you pull over or in traffic...I note that the Corse systems have double carbon heat shields on these sections so they fixed the issue with their design...but at around $5,000 for a system...well they should sort everything shouldnt they???

[SpikeC]

My local coater has a "titanium" finish coating, they could mask off the body of the mufflers and then do the pipes leading to the cans..................or coat the cans as well............
Then there are the Zard emblems on the cans, to keep or not........

I have a set of the black colored cans that I could use while the whole batch is being done............

Various stray thoughts....
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Spike C.
Portland, Oregon, USA
2008 Bimota DB5R
1965 Triumph T100SC

[2bims]

You should find your end cans are titanium anyhow, with ss ends...if they cab coat the inlet pipes it would stop your legs getting warm...as regards tbe zard logos, these are simply metal with a sticky back coating....heat with a hair dryer or run wd40 over them...it eats glue if ever you have sticky hands....then reglue them back on...you can get spares... I have a spare pair somewhere...just heat and price off gently...

[2bims]

You should find your end cans are titanium anyhow, with ss ends...if they cab coat the inlet pipes it would stop your legs getting warm...as regards tbe zard logos, these are simply metal with a sticky back coating....heat with a hair dryer or run wd40 over them...it eats glue if ever you have sticky hands....then reglue them back on...you can get spares... I have a spare pair somewhere...just heat and price off gently...

[SpikeC]

As I was digging out the plastic peanuts from the box that my pipes came in what should I discover butt a little Baggie with 5 long and 2 short springs with a spring puller enclosed! As far as I can see there are only 3 springs needed for the kit, so I guess that I have a few spares!
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Spike C.
Portland, Oregon, USA
2008 Bimota DB5R
1965 Triumph T100SC

[SpikeC]

Turns out there was nothing inside the collector between the two header pipes. My system only had the one cat in the front pipe.
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Spike C.
Portland, Oregon, USA
2008 Bimota DB5R
1965 Triumph T100SC