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SB6 Clutch
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Evilchicken0



Joined: 12 May 2010
Posts: 2996
Location: London

PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 3:56 pm    Post subject: SB6 Clutch Reply with quote

I'm loosing some pressure to the clutch. I'm going to change the original hydraulic line for now but in the long run I'm probably going to look at the slave cylinder.

Are they worth rebuilding or is it more a find another one type of job ?

Does anybody know the length of the hose .. ?
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Jonny B Bad



Joined: 05 Dec 2009
Posts: 564
Location: NE London

PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 6:17 pm    Post subject: SB6 clutch Reply with quote

Chuckie

You can buy a Tourmax repair kit, which is seal and spring, off the bay. Used a lot of Tourmax kit and very happy with it - Japanese made. However, if your piston's pitted, it's a new slave cylinder as you can't buy the piston separately.

Personally, I think the original hoses are okay. They're let down by a dissolving banjo bolt which pollutes the fluid, meaning you've got to keep changing it. Replace the banjo with a stainless one and you should be fine. If you're hell bent on changing the hose, let me know and I'll lend you one that's currently not caught between master and slave to have a new one made up.
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Evilchicken0



Joined: 12 May 2010
Posts: 2996
Location: London

PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 7:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool cheers
I have noticed the fluid goes off fast. I'll have a go at the hose / bolts first but might look at rebuilding the slave too.
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Evilchicken0



Joined: 12 May 2010
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 9:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I changed the line and of course the banjo bolts. I've also done the little hose from the res to the master it looked a bit worse for wear and was breaking up at the top although it looked like it was above the retaining clip.
I did the brake lines at the same time and was waiting on a rear line to bleed them all in.
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Evilchicken0



Joined: 12 May 2010
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PostPosted: Mon May 05, 2014 12:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Zombie resurrection

Sooo I thought everything was OK but sadly not. I hadn't touched the bike but did a few jobs and put some new batteries on so I thought a wander up and down the garages ...
I was s bit upset to see oil on the forkleg but also the clutch wasn't right, the fluid looked low. After looking I found a leak from the master banjo ... I took it apart and found the ferrel is duff - really not happy about that.
Still put the old line back on and eventually bled it in.

So now the problem: the clutch bite is right on the edge of the adjustment at the lever and there ain't anywhere else to adjust it !!! Now that might be some air in there (I tied the lever back last night) I can feel the bike trying to move in first and neutral is difficult to get.

Any thoughts guys ?
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brian



Joined: 22 Aug 2011
Posts: 3790
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2014 1:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wondering if your plates are a bit sticky from sitting over the winter?

My clutch drag was very bad when i first got the bike. It only had 4200 klm's on it at 15 years old and had been sitting in a lounge room for at least 2 years. After a good fulsh and oil change it was a little better. Now it's not even noticable after some good use.
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2bims



Joined: 03 Apr 2010
Posts: 7308

PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2014 7:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When you tied the lever up over night did you also loosen off the reservoir cap to allow air to come back up?

Clutch lines notoriously hard to bleed out...sorted all mine by fitting a Banjo bolt at the Master end with a bleed nipple on it...makes life a lot easier for ridding air from the system....also inspect the rubber bellow seal in the fluid reservoir to ensure no holes in that........After that it could be the master itself is leaking/letting in air...they do go after a while...but isnt always obvious as its fitted at the top.........
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Evilchicken0



Joined: 12 May 2010
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PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2014 12:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Opps - no didn't take the top off but yest to all the rest of it

The clutch itself seems ok it just doesn't seem to move enough.
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2bims



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PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2014 2:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tie it off again for another night...but only have way shut...and take the top off the pot...but leave the rubber on
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Evilchicken0



Joined: 12 May 2010
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PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2014 10:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh well.
Gave it another bleed and it came out with a few tiny bubbles at the top. Tied it off all the way with no top on ... wish I'd read your post before Smile

Sending my clutch line back to Hel to get the banjo replaced. That was the most useless order I've ever had. Orderred the clutch and rear brake lines, the rear line didn't turn up and the clutch was faulty.
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brian



Joined: 22 Aug 2011
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PostPosted: Wed May 07, 2014 12:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's a shame. I've only heard good reports about HEL lines. What was wrong with the clutch line?
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Evilchicken0



Joined: 12 May 2010
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PostPosted: Wed May 07, 2014 3:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The hole in the banjo isn't round, it's like a pear shape with the thin edge towards the pipe union, so the fluid squeezes out under pressure. It's just a dud banjo not really Hel's fault, it should have been checked before it was sent out, then again the order should have been checked as well.
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Evilchicken0



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PostPosted: Wed May 07, 2014 10:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I reckon its about as good as it ever was so without major work that's about all I'm going to get.

So I'll wait till the clutch line comes back and then have see what I think.
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Evilchicken0



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PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2014 1:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So -

I've fitted a radial master cylinder, lever, andthe new cluch line. It's still the same.

I decided it was probably going to be the slave cylinder so set about that yesterday and got it changed, I had a new one but was going to wait untill I had a bit of time / couldn't be botherred to drop the engine Wink

But I think I've found the problem ... the sproket cover that's cut back by Bimota has cracked and broken so now the slave is only held by 32 of the 3 bolts into the crack cases. I've boshed the bike back together but it's probably the flex in the slave mounting that's causing the problem.

Slave with the engine in place



Slave with engine partly dropped - slacked head mounts.



Slave out - you can see how short the sproket cover is



And the remaining bit of the cover - I can't get the final bolt out from the cover it's long and hits the frame



I guess I'll find a sprocket cover and cut it back myself, I can probably keep it around the gearchange shaft and I might get somebody to put a bead of wled on the edge to strengthen it a bit.
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Vince186



Joined: 23 Mar 2012
Posts: 636
Location: Nijmegen (Netherlands)

PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2014 7:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Familiar problem for me had the same. The problem is the way Bimota cut the material out. They made a sharp corner. If you cut it this way it always will crack from the corner when some force is applied. The way to do is drill a hole in the corner than cut it out.
Or do it like mine http://www.bimotaforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=2190&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=90
It’s working fine.
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